Mount Index, South Norwegian Buttress. Mount Index is an impressive three-summited rock peak in Washington’s west central Cascades. It rises sharply 3000 feet above heavily timbered and bushy glacial valleys. The Index massif was formed by a large...
Dhaulagiri 1973Louis F. reichardtFormation of the expeditionTHE 1973 American Dhaulagiri Expedition’s conception and initial momentum were a legacy of Boyd Everett’s tragic 1969 expedition to the same peak. After the avalanche which killed Everett...
East of Illampu and Ancohuma. The eastern cirques formed by Illampu and Ancohuma, two great 6000-meter peaks, and the vast ridge that connects them was so remote that it seemed best to share the benefits of group travel and a common Base Camp. C...
Soviet Ascents. Reports from Moscow indicate that Russian climbers continue to be active. One 21,650-foot peak in the Pamirs in Tadzhikistan was climbed for the first time and named for the cosmonaut Titov. Another mountain in the Tien Shan near C...
Kang Guru Attempt and Hiunchuli Middle Peak. One of our groups attempted the northeast ridge of Kang Guru (23,000 feet), northeast of Manang, but was prevented from getting to the summit by heavy snow storms. Another group did climb to the middle ...
Mt. McKinley, Zanto’s Riches. Torrey Riches and I summited the North Peak of Denali on May 15, via the Northwest Buttress. We spent 11 days acclimatizing on the West Buttress and three days climbing the Northwest Buttress. Our original plan was to...
While planning a trip to remote Tower Peak (11,755'), on the northern border of Yosemite National Park, my interest shifted to an unnamed subpeak ¾-mile north, locally called the Watchtower or Watchtower Peak (10,820'). My research found no ...
Climbing: The Complete Reference. Compiled by Greg Child. Facts on File, New York, 1995. 264 pages, 60 photographs. $39.95.This is a schizophrenic encyclopedia. It seems, at first glance, to be a valuable collection of fascinating and relevant mat...
Dhaulagiri IV. Unsuccessful post-monsoon parties have sometimes, while blaming the bad weather for their failure, explained that virtually no gap occurred between the ending of the monsoon and the onset of the winter snows. Certainly the weather i...
Lidanda Peak, on the Northeast Ridge of Himalchuli. The expedition of the Royal Netherlands Alpine Club consisted of a trekking group and a mountaineering party. Its original aim was to climb P III (“Dakura”), the last elevation of the long east r...
Hayes Glacier, various ascents. From April 30 to May 15 Uwe Nootbaar, Thomas Speck, and I made four first ascents on unclimbed peaks or points and climbed Mt. Gerdine (11,258', fifth ascent) by a partly new route. The peaks are shown on the USGS T...
FALL ON SNOW, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEWyoming, TetonsOn July 26, 1981, Keith Walton (27), a relatively inexperienced climber, made a solo ascent of the Southwest Couloir on the Middle Teton. Descending the same r...
The Alps, by R. L. G. Irving. 120 pages and 130 photographs. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons; London: B. T. Batsford, Ltd., 1940. Price $3.00.In this small book, illustrated with numerous fine photographs of a loved and familiar region, Mr. Irvi...
Mount Hunter, North Face Attempt. An attempt was made on the north face of Mount Hunter by Charles Fuselier, Laura Johnson, Joan Nester, Guy Waterman and me in May. An unusually heavy snow fall occurred during the winter of 1970-71 which may have ...
When we first saw Saser Kangri, in 2001, we didn’t even know its name. My partner Mark Wilford and I snapped a few photographs of four massive mountains to the north as we shivered that early dawn in our high bivouac on Yamandaka (AAJ 2002). Lat...
The Tragedies on the Grand TetonOn the afternoon of July 7th, 1934, Chris Duehlmeier called at Jenny Lake Ranger Station to express anxiety concerning the safety of two friends, Fred Ohlendorf and Helmuth Leese, who had not returned from a mountai...
Unnamed Peaks, Western Truce Group. Lured by unclimbed peaks in the western Truce Group, Gretchen Schoenbohm and I joined Bruce Beck in an attempt to climb two peaks called “X” and “Y” by Beck. Beck had made ascents of two unclimbed peaks in the a...
Pt. 6,000' of Mt. Yukla, The History of Things to Come, and The Positive Side of Negative Thinking. After many failed attempts, with several partners, I finally got up two new routes this winter, 2006, on the northwest face of Mount Yukla (7,535')...
ROLAND PALMEDO 1896-1977Roland was better known in ski mountaineering than in technical climbing circles. His activity in developing interest in skiing during the 1930s was exceeded by no one, probably not even equaled. In the incorporation of The...
Baltoro Kangri on Skis. Baltoro Kangri, formerly called the Golden Throne, has five distinct summits, the highest of which is 23,880 feet. It was climbed by Japanese in 1963 and 1976 from the Duke of Abruzzi Glacier via the prominent col to the ea...