Mukut Himal and Kanjiroba Himal. The 1959 American Himalayan Expedition returned to Kathmandu on November 30, after a successful trip of two-and-a-half months into the area north and west of Dhaulagiri, in central Western Nepal. The group consiste...
Kaqur-Kangri first ascent, no-trace efforts, and survey of the region. Five members of Doshisha University Alpine Club made the first ascent of Kaqur-Kangri on September 24. Located near the headwaters the Yalung Tsangpo River, Kaqur-Kangri is the...
The Grand Teton in WinterGeorge H. Lowe IIISINCE Glenn Exum had kindly given permission to use the guides’ hut on the saddle, we spent a companionable evening cooking dinner and discussing with Jock Glidden, Hal Gribble, Dave Lowe and Dave Smith t...
Chomo Lonzo NorthAlpine style on a difficult new route to a Tibetan summit.Patrice Glairon-RappazI am lying in my tent, listening to some sweet music and daydreaming about our climbs on this amazing expedition. Tomorrow, we will start our journey ...
Slushflow Avalanches of the Atigun Pass Region, Central Brooks Range, AlaskaChristopher R. Smith*, Department of Geography, Indiana UniversitySLUSHFLOW AVALANCHES of the Atigun Pass of the central Brooks Range were again investigated during the 19...
Alpamayo. Our party consisted of John Amatt, Dave Bathgate, Terry Burnell, our cameraman, Ned Kelly, Roy Smith and myself. We assembled in Huaraz at the beginning of June and proceeded with all our equipment down the Santa River valley to Molinapa...
Stonehouse Buttress, Dynamo-Hum. In November Dick Swindon and I climbed the first right-facing dihedral from the C.A.F. route. After staying in the dihedral for three F10 pitches, we turned the roof at the top on the left, then the route follows t...
Thoughts About EverestStacy Allison and Geoffrey TabinMY FIRST EXPOSURE to the great Himalayan peaks was on the 1982 American Women’s Himalayan Expedition to Ama Dablam’s Southwest Ridge. As I stood atop Ama Dablam, I had my first glimpse of Evere...
Jannu, north face, new route summary. The historic climb in the Nepalese Himalaya during the pre-monsoon season was the successful ascent and descent by a direct route via the north face of Jannu by aRussian team (with one Kyrgyzstani member) led ...
Mountains of Northern AlaskaThe general name, Brooks Range, covers the several mountain groups in Alaska N. of the Arctic Circle. The highest triangulated peaks, now known, are probably Mt. Chamberlin in the Franklin Mts., and Mt. Michelson in the...
Dawa Peak, north face, first ascent of Snotty’s Gully. Jon Bracey and I landed in Lukla on October 6. Four days later we arrived at base camp, which in our case was Gokyo Resort Lodge situated at 4,800m. Day five was spent stashing gear beneath th...
A Fine Conditioning Climb. “Park your car, walk a mile, and enjoy 5000 ft. of arduous, constantly exposed climbing”—such is the invitation offered by the N. Face of Mt. Johannesberg. I have accepted the invitation twice, and spent 32 and 31 hours ...
Forget Me Not: A Memoir, Jennifer Lowe-Anker. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2008. Eight pages of black and white photos. 276 pages.Hardcover. $24.95.When I picked up Forget Me Not, I anticipated a mediocre book with adequate writing and a one-d...
The Impala. The Impala is the sloping pyramid of about 12,100 feet just above and west of Lower Boy Scout Lake in the Lone Pine Creek area. The face is about 500 feet high. The first ascent was made in June directly up the south face by Brad Fowle...
Lohtse. Five Spanish Basques and one South Korean sent the first Spanish citizens to the top of Lhotse (8516 meters). Two members of the party, Felix and Alberto Inurrategi, who often climb together and never use bottled oxygen, had successfully (...
Galen Avery Rowell 1940-2002In the early hours of August 11 we lost one of our most energetic and influential mountaineers and photographers when Galen Avery Rowell died in a plane crash. His wife Barbara also was killed, as was the pilot and a th...
As the gales of November whipped and thrashed my fragile nylon tether, I felt like a lone sailor out at sea. But the sea I explored consisted of solid blue ice, and I sailed with a kite connected to my harness, skis, and sled. I had come to reco...
In late autumn 2009, Yan Dongdong from China joined Guy McKinnon (New Zealand) and me for a three-man attempt on attractive 6,000+m summits accessed from the Langbu Qu, the third valley system west of Nyanchen Tanglha Main (7,162m). At the time we...
Grand Teton, North Face, Direct Variation. In recent years it has been recognized by several climbers that the standard north face route on the Grand Teton is geometrically “direct” only in the upper portion, from the Third Ledge to the summit. Th...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...