Dhaulagiri. The Argentines made a second attempt on Dhaulagiri, (26,795 feet.) Under the leadership of Lt. Col. Emiliano Huerta were Mario Bertone, Sergeant Felipe Godoy (who was on the first expedition), Sergeant Humberto Vassalla, Vicente Cichit...
Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Schell Route Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Koji Matsui, Osamu Nakajima, Masatoshi Todaka, Kanichi Otani, Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kuria, Hideto Fujii, Yasuki Narita and me as leader. On July 21, we left Ta...
FALL ON ROCK AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Richard Lamb (16), who had climbed for 3 years, was making a first ascent solo at 1230 hours on August 27, 1976. He was using a Gibbs ascender as a self-belayer, which was attached to h...
Antarctic Rescue. In the Antarctic winter night of July 1947, “Pete” Peterson and I found ourselves 20 miles from base without adequate shelter or sufficient food. The circumstances leading up to this predicament would make a long story in themsel...
Nanga Parbat. Probably the most talked about mountaineering expedition this past summer was the German attempt on Nanga Parbat, which ended so disastrously. The news last June, informing us that practically the entire party had been wiped out by a...
Every Man for Himself?David BreashearsOVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS we have witnessed an unprecedented number of climbers and expeditions active on the highest peaks of the world. Through no fault of their own or because of errors of judgement, thes...
Huandoy Norte, Southeast Face, Attempt. Matej Meglic and Primoz Soklic climbed a new route on the southeast face of Huandoy Norte (6395 m), Meso (900 meters, 85°) They reached the ridge 70 meters below summit and descended without topping out.Miha...
Tenzing: Hero of Everest. Ed Douglas. Washington D.C.: National Geographic Press, 2003. 304 pages. Hardcover, $25.00; Paperback, $15.00.I still buy plenty of climbing books, but I can rarely bring myself to read them. I review the picture captions...
1981-Polish-American Climbing Exchange Program. In late March Tom Hargis and I were told that we had been chosen as the AAC representatives in the climbers’ exchange with Poland in the late summer. After four months of uncertainty, watching the he...
Washington, Cascades, LaBohn Gap—About noon on August 1, Jack Slehofer (16) and William Johnson (18) were traveling from South to North over LaBohn Gap in the Washington Cascades. They were fishermen, headed for a string of lakes in Necklace Valle...
Nanga Parbat, 1932Elizabeth KnowltonON April 28, 1932, the German American Himalayan Expedition sailed from Genoa for India to attempt the ascent of Nanga Parbat.1Nanga Parbat is the seventh highest mountain in the world, so that if the expedition...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyPaul Whippo (27) and Doug Meerdinkt (26) were descending from the top of Crack Center Route (YDS II, 5.6 or 5.7) at 6 p.m. on October 2. They had been unable to find an existing rappel...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF—FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INATTENTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn March 2, Hayner Brooks (44) was climbing with Ken Miller on the route Three's Company (I, 5.7), pitches o...
Kyashar, southwest face, attempt. From October 11 to 15 Jan Doudlebsky and Marek Holecek attempted the first ascent of the southwest face of Kyashar (a.k.a. Peak 43; 6,770m). This peak had its only official ascent in October 2003, by a multination...
Colorado, First Flatiron. On July 9, Gabe Lee (18), and Dave Roberts (18) attempted to climb the more difficult left side of the face, rather than the normal right-hand route. They had reached a point about four- fifths of the way up and Lee led a...
Cerro Torre, East Face. In January Phil Burke and Tom Proctor from England climbed the east face of Cerro Torre nearly to the summit. On a previous 28-day attempt, Brian Wyvill and Ben Campbell-Kelly had climbed over half the route. They left a “s...
FATIGUE, DEHYDRATION, FROSTBITE, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressTomoyasu Ishikawa (30) began his solo ascent of Mount McKinley from the Kahiltna Glacier on May 19. He arrived at the 14,200-foot camp on the 21st where he planned...
Jannu, west pillar. After their ascent of Merra Peak, reported above, Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov made the first ascent of the west pillar of 7,710m Jannu. The pair left base camp at 4,700m on October 14 and reached the summit on the morning...
There’s nothing neutral about Mt. Edgar. It’s stunning and savage. It’s beautiful and deadly. It’s amazing climbing with incredible dangers. Kyle Dempster and I stepped into the Casino Edgar in November of 2010. We didn’t lose our shirts, but the ...
Miyar Nala Area, Various Ascents. In this part of Great Himalayan Range there are a lot of unclimbed and unnamed peaks with heights between 5500 and 6500 meters. Four virgin peaks were climbed during two different Italian expeditions in 1992 and 1...