Goldfinger. This spectacularly thin 125-foot granite needle on the “Cleaver” of the Sawtooth Ridge area was first climbed by Joe Brown and me on October 27. On a clear day illuminated by fresh snow, we climbed thin cracks on the vertical west face...
Mount Everest, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu Ascents. Kazakhastan climber Anatoli Boukreev made three ascents of 8000-meter peaks in 1995. His story appears earlier in this journal.
East Face of Goat Flat’s Plateau. David Ravert, Ed Poznanski, and I ascended the snowfield which empties into Golden Lake (upstream from Phillips Lake). Although this snow chute is 1500 feet in vertical height, the climb covered 2000 surface feet ...
Cordillera Occidental, High Altitude Archaeology and Various Ascents. High altitude archae- ology was again the focus of several expeditions on the volcanoes near Arequipa during the last three months of 1997. Team leaders Jose Antonio Chavez (Uni...
Stanford Alpine Club. During the year the Stanford Alpine Club continued its program of informal instruction for beginning and intermediate climbers. Practice climbs were held almost every Sunday of the academic year, while instruction and supervi...
Juriques and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modem Ascents. American anthropologist J. Rinehard, accompanied by J. Sarracino and Ana María Barón, Chilean researchers, made several ascents near Licancabur. On August 31 Rinehard climbed Licancabur itself a...
Cordillera Yauyos and Siulá Grande, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Expeditión Barcelona was composed of the climbers Francisco Guillamón, Venancio López, Miguel Muñoz, Jorge Pons, the scientists Alberto Folch, Augusto Panyella, Eudaldo Serra, and mysel...
Kayo Zom, Pechus Zom, Gainthir Zorn, Das Bar Zorn and Other Peaks. On June 17 Elfriede Baltuska, Viktoria Hribar, Gerulf Wilhelm, Günther Wöhrl, and I of the Vienna Academic Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) left Vienna to drive overland t...
A Sendero Luminoso Visit to a Canadian Base Camp. At five A.M. on July 29, our Base Camp at Jahuacocha was alarmed by the blast of a grenade! We were victims of a Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) guerrilla visitation. The guerrillas had word that t...
Mount Everest, Reconnaissance from the North. In preparation for the joint Japanese-Chinese expedition to the northern side of Mount Everest, the Japanese sent a nine-man team under the leadership of Dr. Junsei Saito. Base Camp was set up on the R...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Casaval RidgeOn April 28, an experienced young man (17) was climbing alone to train for a Denali climb this season. He fell while down-climbing in loose rocks on Casaval Ridge about 11,000 ...
Additional Articles from the 1981 American Medical Research Expedition to Everest.Blume, F.D., S.J. Boyer, L.E. Braverman, A. Cohen, J. Dirkse and J.P. Mordes. Impaired osmoregulation at high altitude. J.A.M.A. 252: 524-526, 1984.Boyer, S.J. and F...
Tilitso Tragedy. A 16-member German expedition led by Hans Huhn had hoped to climb Tilitso. During the approach to Base Camp, a huge snow avalanche on the west side of the Mesokanta La caught ten climbers. Rudolf Spring-mann and Hermann Ebert were...
Kamet. An expedition from the Assam Mountaineering Association led by Atanu Prosad Barua abandoned its attempt on Kämet (25,447 feet) when beaten back by a sudden and severe blizzard only 400 feet from the summit. They had set up Camp IV at 22,500...
Lapche Kang, Attempt, Previously Unreported. The Kyoto Alpine League team, led by Kazunari Aihara and comprised of six members, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Lapche Kang (7100m) in September-October, 1998, but abandoned the attempt 160...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Our expedition to Chau Chau Kang Nilda (also known as Guan Nelda) had me as leader and Mrs. Bani Bose as deputy. From Kaza we proceeded to Lanza and pitched Base Camp on August 31 at 17,410 feet. We climbed scree to Camp I at...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In 1982 the DMC continued to offer comprehensive rock-climbing classes to Dartmouth College students as well as other interested parties. In addition a new winter mountaineering/ice-climbing school was organized and ...
Baruntse Ascent and Attempt. There were two expeditions on the southeast ridge of Baruntse in the autumn. Six French climbers and two Swiss led by Fran§oise Aubert were successful. Frenchman Bernard Hollande and Swiss Patrice Kohli got to the summ...
Batura Attempt. A three-man German expedition led by Volker Stallbohm failed to climb Batura. Details are not yet known.
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. The famous Polish woman climber, Wanda Rutkiewicz, was last seen shortly after eight P.M. on May 12. On May 10, she and Mexican Carlos Carsolio, leader of a team of four Mexicans and two Poles, were climbing betwe...