FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mount AliceOn August 29, David Ingersoll (40) left the Wild Basin Trailhead alone to check out possible routes on the East face of Mount Alice. Ingersoll sc...
The Parapet, South Face. Our unofficial naming of the imposing central crag of the Mount Bago jumble above Junction Meadow along Bubbs Creek came after a most enjoyable frolic on the solid rock of this formation. In May, Rick Nolting and I climbed...
AVALANCHEYukon Territory, Mt. Logan, Southwest ButtressJohn Lauchlan (24) and Jim Elzinga (25) were descending a snow face about 2,000 feet below the summit of Mt. Logan on 1 July 1979 after having climbed the southwest buttress. An avalanche came...
Castle Rocks, North Buttress of “Amphitheatre Dome.” A trip to the Castle Rocks in the western Sequoia area rewarded us when we found and climbed a fine face on the major peak in this compact group of granite summits, a mile south of better known ...
FALL ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibA ten-member British Army expedition “Summit to the Sea” checked into the Talkeetna Ranger Station for their briefing on June 2. Their original plan was to ascend...
Haizi Shan, 2003 and 2005 attempts. In October 2003 we traveled from Hong Kong to Sichuan by train. We were joined in Kanding by Neil Carruthers, Stephen Wai Wah Yip (Geordie), and Ron Yue, who arrived by plane.After renting a horse train from the...
Pisang Peak Ascent and Tragedy. In autumn a 20-strong Slovenian trekking group made the Annapurna circuit. Four members, all experienced mountaineers, decided to climb the Pisang Peak (6091 meters). The climb went smoothly and they reached the sum...
Sundance Peak, East Face. In late July Anne Ketchin and I climbed an interesting new route on the east face of Sundance Peak. Following a book crack that starts slightly left of center on the face we climbed five pitches to the top of the south ri...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF-FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION (BOLT) PULLED OUTAlberta, Lady MacDonald, Stoneworks CragOn August 4, S. (20) was climbing a 5.12a sport route at a crag near Canmore. He clipped three bolts and moved some distance above the third bolt w...
Ranrapalca, North Face, Variation. It was reported that Patrick Knoll and Peruvians Guillermo Mejia-Ordóñez and Eduardo Angulo-Zambrano did a new start to the north face (TD+ 5.9 A2, 3,000 feet) of Ranrapalca (6162m) in the first week of August. T...
Spokane Mountaineers. Experiments during 1964 led to a thorough ski-mountaineering course in the fall, followed by experience climbs on skis. The attrition in attendance from classroom to snow-cave living was predictably high. Spokanites will init...
Nun, Northwest Ridge and West Face. The highest summit (23,410 feet) between Nanga Parbat and the Garhwal Himalaya, Nun, was climbed by a 15-member Mountain Travel team, led by Galen Rowell. Five climbers reached the summit and twelve got to the...
Rich Jack, 1948-2010In 1987 I was the rock-climbing director of a Boy Scout Ranch outside of Fort Collins. I needed to hire a couple of climbers to set up top-ropes, so I put up a notice at the climbing store and met with a tall, blond guy the nex...
Peaks in the Vicinity of Grave Lake. Grave Lake has long been a popular destination for pack trippers and fishermen; however, a perusal of Bonney’s Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas indicated that the mountaineering possibilities...
Licancabur and Llulloillaco. From San Pedro de Atacama, I walked some 43 kilometers to the base of Licancabur (5921 meters, 19,424 feet) and I ascended to the summit on May 7. A week later from Socompa railroad station, I hiked to place a camp at ...
Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. Just after midnight on June 16-17, a Twin Otter skiplane of Air Iceland lifted off from Isafjordur, Iceland, to take a group of five Britons—Scott Umpleby (leader), Dr. Jon Dallimore, Gordon Downs, Sandy Gregson...
Illimani Traverse, Pomarata, Sajama. Our Regensburg expedition was composed of Ria Putz, Heidi Hildebrandt, Roman Schönbuchner and me as leader. We were in the field from July 29 to September 15. It took four days for my wife Ria, Heidi Hildebrand...
Cerro Altar. The Italians Marino Tremonti, Ferdinando Gaspard and Cloudio Zardini made the first ascent of the Cerro Altar (17,451 feet) up its south side. It was a difficult ascent. They also ascended Chimborazo.Pietro Meciani, Club Alpino Italiano
Kanchenjunga, Normal Route. Our expedition was composed of Franco Garda, climbing leader, Lelio Granier, Oscar Tayola, Riccardo Borney, Abele Blanc, Giuliano Sciandra, Oreste and Arturo Squinobal, Pietro Ferraris, Vittorio Mangili, Sergio Mezzanza...
Das Bar Zorn and Gainthir Chish, Hindu Raj. The expedition of the Kapfenberg Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was led by Helmut Linzbichler and composed of Gamrerith, Scherbichler and Trebsche. On August 8 Gamerith and Trebsche made the f...