FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaIn July, a party of four climbers attempted the Hotlum Glacier route on Mount Shasta. Parts of this route are covered in hard ice on which self-arrest is difficult. The climbers traveled in ...
Admiralteets, Bashkirov Route. From July 27-30, M. Mikhaylov (leader), V. Akimov, A. Molotov, A. Puchinin and A. Chernov, all from the Kazak Army Sports Club (Almaty, Kazakhstan), climbed the pillar of Admiralteets peak (5090m) via the 1985 V. Bas...
Our four-person team arrived on September 18 in the Madagascar capital of Antanariva. From there we traveled to the Andringitra National Park 800km to the south. Situated here is the famous granite massif of Tsaranoro, and we spent almost a month ...
A.A.C. Rocky Mountain Section. We met twice during 1957: once to hear Jürg Marmet, the Swiss Everest-climber, and to see his beautiful slides of the Swiss Everest-Lhotse Expedition; and once, in conjunction with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, to...
Nanda Devi East Attempt. After a lapse of seven years, our joint Indo-Polish expedition was the first to climb on the Nanda Devi massif since the Nanda Devi Sanctuary was declared a Bio-Sphere Reserve and closed for all expeditions. We were permit...
East Face of La Pérouse, Fairweather Range. This 7000-foot high face is of mixed snow, ice and rock. Parts of it were very difficult, up to difficult class 6. The ice lies at angles from 50° to 65° and the face is swept by rock fall and avalanches...
Kun and Nun. An Italian expedition reached the summit of Kun (7087 meters, 23,252 feet) on August 16. Base Camp and Camps I, II and III were at 4000, 5500, 6100 and 6350 meters. The summit climbers were Santino Cale- gari, Battista Scanabessi, Mar...
Changi Tower (5,800m), south face, Anké Asashe. The expedition was completed by Nestor Ayerbe, Oscar Perez, and myself, all from Huesca, northern Spain. Our mountain club, Peña Guara, supported the expedition. On July 21 we arrived at the 4,200m b...
Thui II Attempt. From Gilgit we drove in four jeeps to Yasin in the Thui valley. We hired 21 donkeys and subsequently 25 porters to reach Base Camp at 14,500 feet. Camp I on Thui II (21,401 feet) was established at 17,000 feet on a shelf overlooki...
Annapurna North Face Attempts. There were two unsuccessful attempts to climb Annapurna by the usual north-face route. Nine Spanish Catalans led by Oleguer Suñe reached a high point at 6200 meters on October 4. A second expedition of Catalans, also...
Lotus Flower Tower. Frenchmen Guy Abert and Jacques Fouques from August 25 to 27, 1975 made the fourth ascent of the southeast face of Lotus Flower Tower. They climbed mostly free, using aid on only a few pitches.
Ascents in the Mount Forel Area. Paul Walker and Tangent Expeditions made several climbs in the Mount Forel area. Walker flew his expedition in and out with a ski-mounted Twin Otter.On the flight to retrieve the Walker expedition, Douglas Cooper's...
GEORGE IRVING BELL1926–2000When George Bell, who made significant first ascents in the Andes and the Karakoram, died on May 28, in Los Alamos, New Mexico, from leukemia complications following routine surgery, it was a quiet end to a remarkable li...
Castle Dome, Silmarillion. In October Mark Menge and I put up a new route on the south face of this dome. The route takes a hard line in the main dihedral of the face. NCCS IV, F11.Jack Roberts, Buff Alpine Club
Haystack, Direct West Face. The smooth exfoliated west face of Haystack, as seen across Big Sandy Lake, is a landmark to climbers hiking in to the Cirque of the Towers area. It becomes increasingly steeper and harder as you move from the more slop...
White MountainsMt. Washington. The summer of 1942 marks the 300th anniversary of the first ascent of Mt. Washington by Darby Field. Looking for a route to the fur country, which was enriching the traders of Quebec, he had gone up the Saco River, c...
In Nepal’s geopolitical landscape, the West has a special place. West Nepal was one starting point of the Maoist revolution and forms a perfect example of the dramatic imbalance of economic development and tourism that exist within the country. Cl...
Half Dome, Peripheral Vision. On July 17, Karl McConachie and I completed the first traverse of Half Dome’s northwest face (VI 5.11c PDH). It is a line we had talked about since our ascent of Same as it Never Was in 1986, but just never got it tog...
LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Mt. Shuksan. On a climb with the Mountaineers, Walter Swan (age unknown) lacerated his right thigh with the pick of his ice axe. “Whinney’s slide was icy and Walt ‘lost it’ part way down.” Injury res...
Bhagirati Parbat. The expedition of the Calcutta Climbers Club, led by Sujit Bose, made its base on the Basuki Tal (lake) at 16,200 feet south of the Chaturangi Glacier. On October 22 Bose, V. Govindraj, Amar Roy and the Sherpas Karma and Gyalbu m...