P 10,500+, North of Queen Mary, Saint Elias Mountains, Icefield Ranges. After a week of poor flying weather, Bill Proudman, Deb Caughron, Bobby Bonnet, Peter Hampson and I abandoned our original goal of Mount Kennedy and flew to the large unnamed ...
CLUB “EXPEDITIONS”During recent years, a number of climbing or outing clubs have sponsored “expeditions” to mountain ranges in foreign countries. Participants in these outings are often solicited by mail or by advertisements in mountaineering maga...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise CliffsThis accident occurred when the victim (40) suffered a fall while rappelling down the cliffs at the west end of Lake Louise on May 15, 1983. He and a companion had been pra...
INADEQUATE ANCHOR AND BELAYBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park/Alpine Recreation Area, Snowpatch SpireOn July 18, a group of five climbers had climbed the Kraus/McCarthy Route on Snowpatch Spire. They were moving down to a rappel sta...
Pumori. Craig Linford, Dave and Dianna Dailey, Paul Stevenson and I were able to make a new route on the northeast ridge of Pumori, but it took longer than we had time for and so we did not make the summit. We did a great deal of technical water-i...
Everest. The Norwegian Everest Expedition, numbering twelve climbers and 28 high-altitude porters, reached Base Camp on March 14. The Icefall was particularly difficult and dangerous this year, being very broken and unstable perhaps because there ...
Knud Rasmussens Land, first ascents. Four British climbers, Geoff Bonney, Rosie Goolden, Mark Humpherys, and I, made nine first ascents from the Griffith Pugh Glacier. The team based itself on the glacier at 69° 10.741' N, 29° 9.029' W approximate...
Troll Wall, Rock Fall. It was reported that the 1300-meter Troll Wall on the north face of Trollryggen (1742m) experienced a series of rockfalls beginning in September. The first came from high on the face in an area known as the Gray Wall; the fa...
Huantsan Norte, The Wayqui Way. Rolando Morales Flores, Beto Pinto Toledo, Michel Bernuy Qiuto, and I (all International Federation of Mountain Guides aspirants from the Casa de Guias in Huaraz, Peru) entered the Rajucolta Valley on July 11 and se...
OVERDUE CLIMBERWyoming, TetonsOn July 12, 1984, at 0530, Thomas Egan (26) and a climbing partner went up into Hanging Canyon with the intention of climbing the East Ridge of Rock of Ages. Mr. Egan was under the impression that he was signed out fo...
Wilderness Search and Rescue. Tim J. Setnicka. Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, 1980. 640 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings, bibliography. $12.95.High Drama offers clear, precise and new descriptions of well- known—and some unkno...
Mount Silverthrone Traverse. On April 2 and 3 four of us flew to the Ruth Amphitheater with Cliff Hudson, where we met our fifth member, who had skied in with two companions. We were Jim Bergdahl, Garret Brown, Roger Fuiten, Sandy Mapes and I. Our...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, LOOSE ROCK Colorado, Bear Creek CanyonOn October 26, 1986, two climbers with proper equipment, including seat harnesses, carabiners and pitons, were climbing in Bear Creek Canyon....
Nanga Parbat, Japanese Tragedies. Two Japanese expeditions unsuccessfully attempted Nanga Parbat and both lost members. An 11-man expedition to the Rupal Face led by Osamu Kunii established Base Camp, Camps I, II and III at 11,800, 16,750, 19,675 ...
Recent new routes. As of a few years ago the 1970 Leste Route on Pico Maior in Rio de Janeiro was the longest (700m, 5.8R) established. Harder routes were established, like Terra de Gigantes (550m, A4+) on Pedra do Sino, also in Rio, but the big f...
Living Country Customs in Salzburg, by Prunella C. Pott-Flatz. 64 pages, with illustrations from the author’s pen drawings. Salzburg: Karl Gordon, 1950. Price, $1.00.This little book, written in English, is sponsored by the Folklore Department, Go...
Sakube lwa, Honshu. Honshu, the southwestern island of Japan, offers little climbing of an original nature unless one can locate some of the small forgotten pinnacles projecting from timber covered slopes. Sakube Iwa is such a pinnacle in Ryu Mon ...
Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. The expedition of the Cuneo section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Antonio Perino, leader, Toni Caranta, Sergio Ambrosiani, Enrico Acchiardo, Piero Ballario, Bruno Dematteis, Carlo Garelli, Giuli...
Colorado—Waterwheel Falls, Idaho Springs: On July 5, 1952, Edward Parry, Jr. slipped when half way up a 100 foot cliff and fell head first onto rocks below. He died shortly thereafter as a result of his fall. No other data available from newspaper...
Schweizerland, East Greenland. Our Catalan expedition was composed of Nuria Pares, Pep Bisquert, Miquel Autet, Angel Serra, Montse Riesco and me as leader. We left Kulusuk on August 3, ascended the Karale Glacier to the September 16th Glacier and ...