Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bojohagur Duanasir

Bojohagur Duanasir. Tsuneo Omae led a Japanese expedition which made the first ascent of Bojohagur Duanasir by its southwest ridge. They approached via the Hasanabad Glacier west of the peak. They placed Base Camp at 4300 meters on June 19 and Cam...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mali, Hand of Fatima, Further Notes to Wright's Report

Hand of Fatima, further notes to Wright’s report. The Hand of Fatima towers close to the town of Hombori within a region mainly occupied by the Fulani tribe. Hombori’s unique position shares tribal borders, so the regional market trades between ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chearoco Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real

Chearoco, Illampu, Pico del Norte, Cordillera Real. A very successful German expedition was led by Heinz Gall and Dieter Schoodt. On July 31 they made a new route, the east face on Chearoco (20,102 feet). On August 14 and 15 Georg Frey, Schoodt, S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Ganglagachu

Ganglagachu. A ten-member French expedition led by Philippe Allibert and Jean-François Tripard on October 25 climbed Ganglagachu (c. 6000 meters) in northern Bhutan, an “elegant,” although not very difficult snow-and- rock peak. A photograph appea...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Protection—Rappel Failure, Anchor Sling, Knot Parted, Washington, Icicle Creek Canyon

INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL FAILURE, ANCHOR SLING KNOT PARTEDWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonOn August 28, 1989, Gretchen Glatte (23) fell about 20 meters, breaking her neck, elbow and both wrists, and collapsing a lung when the sling being used f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Peruvian Ascents

Peruvian Ascents. The following list of ascents in 1956 by Peruvians, as well as other important data, were provided by César Morales Arnao, of the Grupo Cordillera Blanca de Huaraz. Whether these are first ascents or not, is not clear. From the S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Mexico, Picacho del Diablo, Pinnacle Ridge, Baja California

Picacho del Diablo, Pinnacle Ridge, Baja California. From November 9 to 11, nine Prescott (Arizona) College students and two instructors ascended the Picacho del Diablo via Pinnacle Ridge. The students were Gemma Kemp- Garcia, Geoff Gardner, Julia...


Notes AAJ
Albert Smith

AlpsAlbert Smith took the part of Tell (a patriotic party) in a burlesque entitled William Tell; or, The Strike of the Cantons, performed by a company of amateurs (the Fielding Club) at the Royal Italian Opera (Lyceum), June 2nd, 1856. The scene i...


Accident Reports ANAM
Mild Hypothermia, Dehydration, Inadequate Equipment and Water, California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan

MILD HYPOTHERMIA, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND WATER California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 31, 1993, at 1620, SAR site member Eric Rasmussen, who was near the base of El Capitan, heard cries for help from unidentified climbers on ...


Notes AAJ
Nanga Parbat Correction

Nanga Parbat Correction. In AAJ, 1988, page 264, it incorrectly stated that the Japanese expedition had climbed the Schell route. The route which was actually climbed by them was the German route of 1962 on the Diamir Face.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park

FALL ON ICE—British Columbia, Kokanee Glacier Park. Ron Homenuke (24) and two companions were traversing Kokanee Glacier from the true right to true left above a sheet of glare ice at 1030 hours on October 1, 1976. They had neither ropes, crampons...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Hungchi

Hungchi, which lies south of the Nup La on the eastern rim of the Ngojumba Glacier, which itself forms the Nepal-Tibet frontier, is sometimes referred to as Cha Khung or Gyuba Tshomotse, and Fungqi in Chinese. Some members of the 2003 Japanese exp...

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Notes AAJ
Asia, Himalayan Weather

Himalayan Weather. Thanks to the same informant in Poona, we have had word of two interesting surveys reported by the Statesman.In November 1948 an RIAF meteorological expedition under the leadership of Flying Officer K. Chandra, with a medical re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, English Expedition

English Expedition. Four English climbers, R. L. Beaumont, R. A. Hodgkin, M. S. Taylor, and J. R. Jenkins, made a number of notable ascents in the week of July 20th-27th. They negotiated the first ascent of Jailik-Bashi, 14,868 ft., by the S. face...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Cheetah

Cheetah, Little Cottonwood Canyon. In July, my brother Robert and I established an excellent route left of Tarzan in the Gate Buttress area. Beginning on Tarzan Ledge, the first two pitches climb the challenging face above with bolt protection. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ocshapalpa, South Face, Intsumisioa

Nevado Ocshapalca, South Face, Intsumisioa. It was reported that Spaniards Balta Fonsecca and Rafa Santesteban climbed a new route, Intsumisioa (500 meters, 70°-90°) on the south face of the mountain*. They climbed a steep couloir on the left side...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Ojos del Salado, Winter Ascent

Ojos del Salado, Winter Ascent. W. Ritter, P. Stecher and I left Tinogasta in the Argentine on June 7 and headed on foot across the desert to the Ojos del Salado. On June 20 we left our Camp VI at 18,875 feet and in eight hours climbed the south f...


Book Reviews AAJ
Volcanoes as Landscape Forms

Volcanoes as Landscape Forms, by C. A. Cotton. 8vo.; 401 pages with 223 illustrations. Wellington, N. Z.: Whitcombe & Tombs, Ltd., 1945. Price £1/12/6.Professor Cotton of Victoria College, Wellington, has made a unique contribution to physiogr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Lankin Dome, Granite Mountains

Lankin Dome, Granite Mountains. Some rather nice granite domes lie in the Wyoming desert. Eric Boelke, Andy Archer and I climbed a route on the northwest buttress of Lankin Dome in August. The first pitch, the crux, is up a friction slab (one bolt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Rocky Mountains, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Tague Yer Time

Tague Yer Time. South Chasm View Wall hides its secrets well. It took Jared Ogden and me many trips to work out a new line just right of Astrodog, and then another few trips to complete it. Tim Toula and Jim Olsen did the first two pitches and nam...