Baruntse, North Ridge Attempt. The north ridge of Baruntse has usually been attempted from the more accessible Khumbu region. Climbing to the ridge from this side can be very hazardous because of avalanche danger (AAJ, 1981, pages 249-251). Instea...
Cerro Ladrillero, from the northeast. In the austral extreme of the Americas, nature becomes savage, with steep geography that includes a labyrinth of islands, fjords and mountains, glaciers, deep forests of incredible colors, and land that’s diff...
Nun, Kun, and Kashmir peaks. Due to the troubles in the state of Kashmir no expeditions were permitted to the popular peaks of Nun and Kun. Similarly, no climbing has been allowed in the entire area of Kishtwar. Both southern Zanskar and Kishtwar ...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Jon Patterson, Peter Keane, Maury McKinney, Jeff Montgomery and I hoped to climb the east side of the south face of Annapurna and to continue up the east ridge, but high winds made us apply to change to the Bonington rout...
Glaciers of Mount Shasta. Several of the glaciers of Mount Shasta were visited and described, and their present condition compared with earlier observations.Fifty years ago the snout of Wintun Glacier is said to have reached the 8,000-ft. level, b...
Moses, Pale Fire, Canyonlands. In May, Chip Chace and Charlie Fowler made an all-free ascent of the original route on the north face of Moses in Taylor Canyon. The 600-foot route, when done completely free, requires two 5.11 pitches and one, the f...
HEAT EXHAUSTIONBritish Columbia, Coast Range, White MountainA group of young men and women were taking a four-day Introductory Mountain Walk Course of the Canadian Outward Bound School, Kermos, British Columbia. They left the school at 1030 hours ...
Fast and Light on Fitz RoyGalen A. RowellIn OCTOBER, 1985 Michael Graber, David Wilson, and I drove a thousand miles from Bariloche through the heart of Patagonia in the early spring. Our plan was to go fast and light on Fitz Roy, but we imagined,...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The work of Chairman Steve Schneider, Jane Koski, Tadeusz Gladczenko, Tony Watkin, Paul Romero, and others was reflected in the fact that our section grew to over 900 members by year’s end. A brief wrap-up of the year’s...
CHRISTINE LINCOLN REID1906-1990Christine Reid, known to her friends as “Pussy” or “Pooh,” was an enthusiastic mountaineer, skier and white-water canoeist. She was born on May 8, 1906 in Belmont, California and received her early education there in...
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by Zhang Jiyue of Sichuan Earth Expeditions, we had been exploring unknown peaks and glaciers in the Nyanchen Tanglha East a...
Selkirk Range of British Columbia, 1945. In August 1945 A. J. Kauffman, II, with several companions, made a number of ascents in the Southern Selkirks, concerning which the following notes have been received:“We made a dozen or so climbs, includin...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Dean Potter, in outlandishly bold style, made a new solo speed record of the Regular route on Half Dome. Taking only 4:17 (and smashing the old record by 16 hours), Potter free-soloed most of the route, carrying ...
Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs. M.S. Kohli and Kenneth Conboy. Lawrence: University of Kansas Press, 2003. 248 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.It’s hard to imagine climbers playing a role in the nuclear political drama of the...
TERRANCE MANBECK “MUGS” STUMP1949-1992Snow swirls softly in the gray sky and settles deeply over the fractured ice, muting its soft edges. Higher, the bitter wind hurls itself against the ridges and buttresses of Denali, the Great One, the soul of...
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur, Ascent by Lads. At 4 p.m. on May 26, Gren Hinton and I skied into the Infinite Spur's amphitheater. In the afternoon heat, the walls all around us began to wake after a storm and, restlessly stretching, began to shed th...
The north face of Putala Shan is an impressive big wall, which I have tried twice. I have not attempted the same mountain twice since 1990, when I made my last winter solo attempt on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. My first attempt on Putala did not go wel...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, NO HARD HATColorado, Hallett PeakPaul Briggs (32) and Larry Layman (32) were climbing the Northcut-Cartel route on Hallett Peak. Layman had just run out a length of the rope when, for some unknown reason, he fell. He ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – KNOT PULLED THROUGH BOLT HANGERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 27, Jim Fisher (30) and I, Scott Earnest (27), set out to climb Lurking Fear (20 pitches, VI 5.10 A3), our first El Cap route. W...
Red Rocks Routes. Some of the routes done in the Red Rocks since the completion of the manuscript for my guidebook in 1981. Black Velvet Canyon: Sandblast (5.9), FFA October 1985 by Nick Nordblom, Paul Van Betten. This is a free ascent of the aid ...