Arrowhead Mountain, North Face. The rather hidden north face of this peak is one of the many surprises in the northern part of the Wind Rivers. The central and western portion of the face is glacier polished. From a camp below the peak on Septembe...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, CLIMBING WHILE INTOXICATED Washington, Leavenworth, Icicle Creek CanyonIt was a warm, spring afternoon, and we left Seattle to do a little climbing. We had been climbing for three or four hours on practice pitc...
Fitz Roy Climbed by Koreans. Fitz Roy was climbed for the first time by Koreans on February 21 when Choi J.H and Kwon S.J. reached the summit after a month of effort and three days in the final climb. It is not clear which route they took but it a...
The Beehive Basin, Gallatin and Beaverhead National Forest. In August, Stefan Mitrovich and John Gallagher hiked into Beehive Basin near Big Sky, Montana. Our original plan was to do the standard route on The Beehive, but there was already a party...
Dhaulagiri II Attempt. An 8-man expedition of the Tokyo University of Agriculture and Technology failed to climb the southwest ridge of Dhaulagiri II from the south. They claimed to have reached nearly 23,000 feet from Camp III on May 26.Michael C...
Everest Attempt. We were Alfredo Bonini, Roberto Linsker, Kenvy Chung Ng, Ramis Tetu, Paulo and Helena Coelho, Dr. Eduardo Vinhaes, Sherpas Ang Rita, Ang Nima, Phuba and I as leader. We attempted the East Rongbuk-North Col route. We arrived at Bas...
Washington, Mt. Goblin—On May 22, Andrew Hilen (18) and Walter Weld (18) with two companions hiked in to attempt an ascent of Mt. Goblin. They had made a partial ascent when they realized they could not reach the summit in good season. The weather...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long's PeakOn September 19, at 0930, Mike Riter (23) and partner Simeon Bateman (24) were ascending Lamb’s Slide on the east fac...
British Soviet Pamirs Expedition. The British members of our party were Sir John Hunt, leader; Dr. Malcolm Slesser, deputy leader; George Lowe, Wilfrid Noyce, Ralph Jones, Derek Bull, Ian McNaught-Davis, Ted Wrangham, Dr. Graeme Nicol, Joe Brown, ...
Attempt on El Toro, Cordillera Huayhuash. An English expedition led by Joe Brown and made up of Alan Hunt, Dave Alcock, Mo Anthoine, George Homer, Will Barker, Denis Kemp and journalist Mike Corner made a valiant attempt on El Toro (20,082 feet) b...
Putha Hiunchuli. Our attempt on the south face of Putha Hiunchuli failed at about 20,000 feet. All our equipment, tents, rope, were buried and lost in a snow avalanche at about 19,500 feet.Dieter Steigleiter, Deutscher Alpenverein
Aguja Saint Exupery, Chiaro de Luna, Techada Negro, Attempt, and Shady Wilson Spire, House of Cards. Chad Gamer and I made an ascent of Chiaro de Luna (5.11, 25 pitches) on Aguja Saint Exupery. The route takes a line near an indistinct prow on the...
Sloan Peak, East Face. Although only 600 feet high, the overall shear- ness of the east wall of this popular peak in the west central Cascades has discouraged previous attempts. (A 1965 route using the southeast corner of the face avoided the diff...
Czech Expedition to Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq, Kohe Urgent and Other Peaks. The Czech High Tatras Expedition was led by Miloslav Neumann. The other members were Z. Drlik, Dr. L. Divald, M. Greisel, M. Kriššak, P. Macak, M. Pelc, V. Petrik and V. Tatark...
“The Bat”, “The Coccyx”, “Perdition Peak”. These previously unnamed and unclimbed peaks on the Newhalem-Marble Creek and McAllister-Marble Creek divides were topped by Phil Dahl and me in August 1967. From the end of the overgrown logging road up ...
Annapurna I Attempt. For ten weeks from mid-March to the end of May we were on Annapurna. We were Siegfried Siebauer, leader, Günther Schnait, Erwin Beyerlein, Dr. Bernhard Einzinger, Heinz Herbert Güntner, Gerhard Kern, Karl Heinz Kimer, Jürgen K...
Mount Hunter, Northeast Ridge. On May 15 we were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was at 8200 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Just above was the key to our route, a 1300-foot ice gully, which led to the top of the northeas...
Ostgletscher, near Qorqup Sermia Glacier, Southwest Greenland. Twenty-four members of the Brathay Exploration Group under my leadership visited southwest Greenland from July 26 to August 23. The members were senior boys from schools, undergraduate...
Baruntse, North Ridge Attempt. The north ridge of Baruntse has usually been attempted from the more accessible Khumbu region. Climbing to the ridge from this side can be very hazardous because of avalanche danger (AAJ, 1981, pages 249-251). Instea...
Cerro Ladrillero, from the northeast. In the austral extreme of the Americas, nature becomes savage, with steep geography that includes a labyrinth of islands, fjords and mountains, glaciers, deep forests of incredible colors, and land that’s diff...