FALL ON ROCK, CARABINER FAILURE-PROBABLY CROSS-LOADEDAlberta, Banff National Park, Back of the LakeOn July 29, A.L. was attempting to redpoint “Howard the Duck”, a 5.1 la sport rock climb at the Lake Louise crags. He had clipped the first two bolt...

Cordillera Blanca, Slovenian Activity. Meta Boncelj made a ski descent from the summit of Pisco (5752m) on July 14. She then made a ski descent of Chopicalci (6350m) via the normal route from 6200 meters on July 22. This was the highest Slovenian ...

Sierra Club. Again in 1964 Sierra Club mountaineers climbed throughout the world. They spent long nights swinging in hammocks off El Capitan and huddling in crevasses in the Andes. They climbed in Club- organized outings and in small parties. The ...

Nun. After an eight-man West German team led by Ekkehart Rubel failed at 19,700 feet due to inclement weather, the Swiss Sylvain Saudan brought a six-person team to Nun at the end of May. Not until June 20 did they set up Camp I at 19,000 feet. Af...

Ross Bronson, 1946-2010We now-graying mountaineers remember well the climbing days with our Ross Bronson of yore: confident, skilled, and ever of good humor. Ross came into climbing more than 40 years ago, before almost anyone I queried can rememb...

Doublet, Wind River Range. Our group made the ascent of Doublet from the Dinwoody Glacier via the couloir between Warren and Doublet. Bonney does not report any previous ascent of this route. On June 27, in lowering weather, we ascended the Dinwoo...

Soral Este, Soral Oeste, Salluyo and Chaupi Orco, Cordillera Apolbamba. Italians Ostilio Campese, leader, Nico Bidese, Bortolo Fontana, Paolo Conte, Giancarlo Contalbrigo and Giuseppe Pierantoni traveled in June from La Paz to Peluchuco and thence...

Tsavagattaq, South Ridge, and Other Activity. It was reported that Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Magnar Osnes and Odd Roar Wiik (Norway) with Micke Sundberg (Sweden) visited the Ofjord region near the head of Scoresby Sound Fjord south of the Staunings A...

Churen Himal. A Japanese expedition to Churen Himal (24,184 feet) was abandoned on April 25 due to heavy snowfalls. The highest point reached was 19,350 feet, just below where Camp IV was to have been established.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club

Cordillera Real. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I made the following climbs in the Cordillera Real: Jacha Pata (5424 meters or 17,795 feet) via east face and P 5480 (17,979 feet) via southeast face both on May 30; P 5430 (17,815 feet) and Jishka ...

Italian East Greenland Expedition. During the summer an Italian expedition, led by Guido Monzino of Milan, visited the Staunings Alps on the east coast of Greenland. The team, composed mostly of Alpine guides of Valtournanche, flew from Iceland to...

Kanchenjunga. Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner and Sherpa Ang Dorje reached the summit of Kanchenjunga on May 6 without the use of artificial oxygen. They climbed the north face and north ridge, partially on the Japanese route, partially new...

Nadir Shah. Leopold Berger and Franz Graf of the expedition of the Reichenstein Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) reached the summit of Nadir Shah (22,356 feet), which had previously been climbed.Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

John Cameron Oberlin 1914-2006John Cameron Oberlin, President of the American Alpine Club from 1956 to 1958, represented the AAC at the centenary of the Alpine Club in London. He strongly supported the international aspects of mountaineering. He w...

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (4) Longs Peak. On 17 July 1948 B. B. Van Diver (21) and William Eubank (20) were attempting to climb the east face of Longs Peak by the Stettner Ledges. At some spot near the top of the ledges, Van Diver, who had take...

Tirich Mir, Southeast Ridge of East Peak Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Marian Bala, Wieslaw Burzynski, Dr. Jerzy Friediger, Marek Kalmus, Jacek Poreba, Wieslaw Stefanski and me as leader. Our objective had been the Hispar Mustagh of the K...

Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools. Mark Synnott and Jared Ogden established a new route on the east face of Shipton Spire (5852m) called Ship of Fools (VII 5.11 A2+ WI6), spending 20 nights on the wall and summitting on August 6. A full account of Synn...

Mount Waddington Area, New Routes. Between July 20 and August 2, six of us from Seattle camped at the Combatant-Waddington col, climbing four new routes. On our first day, Dan Cauthorn and Steve Mascioli climbed the central buttress of Combatant (...

Kerckhoff Dome. Near Shaver Lake, a year-round road passes within a mile of little-known Kerckhoff Dome. Huge penstocks bring energy to the Big Creek power station and the tramway used in their construction provides a quick and brush-free access. ...

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section met four times in 1961. On January 20, the following new officers were elected: Lewis Clark, chairman; Jules Eichorn, vice-chairman; William Hooker, secretary-treasurer. Following the busine...