On August 10, two experienced climbers climbing together for the first time met at the mouth of American Fork Canyon at the suggestion of the younger climber, Christian Burrell (25), who proposed establishing a new route. James Garrett (59) had es...
"Madhil Sar"/Shifiitin Sar, clarification. After a conversation with Chris Clark of the 1986 British expedition to Shimshal Whitehorn, Lee Harrison has confirmed that the peak he called "Madhil Sar" (ca 5,700m) in the 2007 AAJ (pp 321-322) was in ...
Mount Miller, First Ascent. In January, I noticed in Climbing magazine that a group had been awarded a Mugs Stump Grant to attempt the first ascent of 11,150-foot Mount Miller in the Wrangell/Saint Elias Range of Alaska. Ostensibly, Mount Miller w...
Minaret Glacier. The small glaciers on the northeast face of the Minaret Range in the Sierras were also visited in August, 1933. Comparing the appearance of the largest of these tongues with that shown in a photograph made in 1923, suggests that a...
Pik Korzhenevskoy and Pik Kommunizma. From Moscow, Tom Dyer, Ed Hirschowitz, Matt Koehler, Dave Rhude, Peter Stock and I on July 12 endured a four-hour flight and an eight-hour bus ride to the Achik Tash Base Camp. We left Achik Tash on July 14 by...
Cho Oyu Ascents from the North and Tragedy in the Pre-Monsoon Season. Climbing Cho Oyu from the west continues to be done frequently, with approaches both from Tibet and Nepal. (See the Nepalese section for those who approached from the south.) Fo...
Roberto delle Monache and I hoped to repeat the Spanish route, Impossible Star (1,300m, 28 pitches, UIAA VI A3+, Aldeguer-Martinez-Moreno-Tomas, 1984), on the west face of Bhagirathi III (6,454m). However, the weather proved too bad for rock climb...
Chip Chace and I climbed the right side of the Sorcerer’s Apprentice, a striking Yosemite-style pinnacle a mile and a half downstream from Grandstaff Canyon. The rock was somewhat softer than Castleton, but the three 5.10 pitches were compact enou...
Connecticut, Ragged Mountain—On Saturday, May 16, Bert Puchtler (22), John Magyar (20), John Kopf (22), George Ganung (22) and Bob Glass (20) set out to climb Berts’ Folly, class 5+. The day was sunny and warm. The climb consists of an easy 70 ft....
FALL ON ROCK, PITON AND NUT FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, YamnuskaAlan Fielding (34) was leading the second pitch of the Grillmair Chimney on Yamnuska at 1330 hours on 19 August 1978. He pulled off a loose block and fell. First a poorly placed ...
Ocshapalca, South Face Correction. On page 187 of A.A.J., 1983 it incorrectly states that an Italian and two Frenchmen made a new route on the south face of Ocshapalca. The route had been previously climbed by Mark Richey and Robert Blatherwick in...
North Face of Golden Horn. Golden Horn, at the head of the scenic west fork of the Methow, is an imposing rock castle from the north and east. Unfortunately for the climber it lies a long way from the Methow road and the granite is a very scaly, l...
Baintha Brakk, Southeast Ridge, and Latok I, North Ridge, Attempts. During July and August, nine climbers performing as two teams attempted to make the first ascents of both the north ridge of Latok I and the southeast pillar of Baintha Brakk (the...
Yedhe Mountain, Northern Canadian Rockies. In early August Barbara Pasenow-Zimmermann and I went in five days from Mile 442 (Peterson Creek) on the Alaska Highway to the Yedhe Lakes. On August 13 we made the first ascent of Yedhe Mountain (c. 8920...
Roraïma Tepui, El Mundo Perdido. Tony Arbones (Spain) and I established the route El Mundo Perdido (VI 7b+ A2, 480m) on the southwest face of Roraïma Tepui in February in Venezuela. The expedition lasted two weeks—one for trekking and another of c...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face. Our team consisted of four climbers, Ger Friele, Gerard van Sprang, Bas Gresnigt and me as leader, an assistant-climber, Frank Moll, our medical team of Marjan and Gee van Enst and our only porter, Mohammed Din, whose one...
Point Pun (13,100 ft.), a little summit near the western end of the Grenadier Range, was first ascended by Carleton Long and John Nelson.
FALL ON SNOW AND GRASS, NO COMMUNICATION, WEATHER British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Anemone PassOn July 27,1986, the inhabitants of a mountaineering camp at 2100 meters awoke to a grey day with rain and low cloud. By 0800, the rain had eased of...
Satopanth, Second Ascent 1981. Beautiful and difficult Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) was first climbed by Swiss in 1947 by the north ridge. It was not till 34 years later that the second ascent followed. It was made by the same route on Aug...
Kumbhakarna North Face. The solo ascent of this face by Tomo Cesen is presented in a full article in the first part of this volume.