Thui I, Hindu Raj. Our expedition was composed of Hideo Mutoh, Yasumi Narita, Miss Kimiko Nakamura, Hiroshi Yanagi, Miss Akemi Takei, Masayuki Nakanishi, Pakistani liaison officer Major Shaukat Hayat and me as leader. We approached via Chitral, Ma...

Annapurna South Face Attempt and Near Tragedy. Franc Knez and Slavko Sveticic attempted to complete the route on the south face of Annapurna previously tried by Beghin and Lafaille. Accompanied by Andreja Knez, they left on August 23 and a few day...

Citadel, Capricorn, Southern Section. On August 3 Kristian (Del) Langbauer and I landed by float-plane on the west end of Lonely Lake. We made new routes on the east ridge of Citadel (NCCS III, F7) and the north ridge of Capricorn (NCCS IV, F8, A2...

Mount Forel Attempt. The Isortoq-Mount Forel Kuummiut '95 Expedition consisted of Jan Mila (Norway) Nels Niemi (Alaska) and Hans Christian Florian (Greenland). The objective was to travel in the previously unexplored area from Isortoq to Mount For...

PETER LIMMER, JR.1920–2000While not a member of the American Alpine Club, Peter, as assistant to his late father and with the help of his late brother, Francis, shod scores of us. Born in Vachendorf, Bavaria, a small town he would describe as bein...

Mount Buckner, North Couloir Correction. Walter R. Gove points out that he, John Holland and three teenagers whose names he does not remember in August 1967 climbed the north couloir of Mount Buckner but did not report it. This was given in A.A.J....

Haystack Mountain. On September 10 Mike Ermarth and I completed the first three leads in the obvious crack which goes vertically up the center of the huge west face of Haystack Mountain, all fourth class; we left one fixed rope. The crack, which w...

Purcell Range of British CoumbiaBugaboo Group. A Sierra Club party composed of E. Koskinen, F. Lippman and J. Pionteki made the second ascent of the S. Tower of Howser Spire in August, 1941, on the day following the first ascent made by members of...

Kojichuwa Chuli (6,439m), attempt. Kojichuwa Chuli lies at the head of the Kojichuwa Khola above Mugu Village, and the peak was attempted with little success in 2008 and 2009 by Spanish and Japanese climbers (AAJ 2010). On May 16, after a six-day ...

Porcelain Wall, Strange World. In August, Bryan Law and I climbed a new route, Strange World, on the Porcelain Wall. We began with a few moves of When Hell Was In Session, then headed right, across Sargantana. The first four pitches wander on and ...

FALL INTO CONCEALED CREVASSE—Washington, Ruth Mountain. At 6 p.m. on July 20, James Kline (25) fell 30 feet into a crevasse. He was walking on a snow field and the crevasse was covered over with snow. The snow gave way from his body weight and he ...

Gangotri I and II. The highest point of the Gangotri group (21,890 feet) was first climbed on October 3, 1952 by Tyson, Huggins and Pasang Dawa. This ascent was repeated on June 25 by Nandini Patel, Swati Desai, K. Patel and M. Bhatt with three Sh...

STRANDED, UNABLE TO ROUTE-FIND, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, DARKNESS, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn July 28, James Griffith (31), Adam Seelig (24) and Erv Wolf were benighted and stranded 10...

Nooksack Tower, Northeast Couloir and East Ridge. On May 30 Chuck Gerson and I made this climb in one long day (18 hours) from our camp on the ridge above Price Lake (5800 feet). Our route continued up the ice ribbon where the main couloir narrows...

FALL ON ROCK, UNPROTECTED Quebec, Val David, Mont Condor, Voie NormalImmanuel Braverman (56) was leading Jim Stokes-Rees and Janet Casey on the Voie Normal on Mont Condor on 21 April 1979. The open corner at the exit was wet and dirty, so he trave...

Nameless Pyramid, East Face. This attractive rock formation lies just south of Kearsarge Pass and directly above Heart Lake. Almost a true pyramid, it has a sheer eastern face which promised a fine, if not a major, new climbing opportunity when Jo...

HAPE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, INADEQUATE FLUIDSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 18, at 1030, Lucas Vidal Proveda, leader of the Spanish expedition Grup De Montanya, reported to Ranger Roger Robinson at the 14,200 foot camp on Mount McKinle...

Genyen massif, Sachun, first ascent; Phurba, first ascent. In October Dave Anderson, Molly Loomis, Andy Tyson, and Canadian Sara Hueniken visited the Genyen massif. On the 20th Anderson and Hueniken climbed the long south ridge of Sachun in a 17-h...

Sita Chuchura Attempt. It was reported that a three-man Japanese expedition led by Kuniharu Okawa attempted the north ridge of Sita Chuchura (6611 meters) in April. They approached the unclimbed ridge from the east flank, but gave up on April 4 at...

Pylon, Cirque of the Towers Region. Dick Compton, John Highkin, and I completed a traverse of two pinnacles on the southeast ridge of Pylon while placing a new route up the southeast ridge. The route which included 11 pitches and 2 rappels plus th...