LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn July 7, 1984, Jean Nuetzel (29) was walking down Hanging Canyon Trail with an injured hand when I made contact with her. She explained that she had been practicing self-arrest with an ic...
High Drama Mountain Rescue Stories from Four Continents. Hamish MacInnes. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 208 pages, black and white photographs, maps. $12.95.
Mount Brooks. On June 14 Mark Bondurant, Reinhold Seyde and I reached the summit of Mount Brooks (11,940 feet). On June 11 we left Oastler Pass, crossed the Muldrow Glacier and climbed up the north ridge on loose rock and snow to 7000 feet. After ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, LOOSE ROCK Colorado, Pikes PeakOn August 30, 1986, Richard Andrews (42) was climbing a 15 meter pitch on Tenny Crags. He was belayed by his daughter (13). He was two to three meters above...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. The French couple, Liliane and Maurice Barrard, did not succeed in getting to the summit of Nanga Parbat in June, but they made a variant on the Diamir route. They climbed a gully and couloir to the left of the usual route an...
Autana Tepui, first ascent of southern aspect. This tepui, 400 miles south of Caracas in the Orinocan jungle, was climbed in March by a team of aid climbers and another of free climbers. The route up the southeast face was 2,400', 25 pitches. It w...
Das Buch vom Wilden Kaiser, by Fritz Schmitt. 328 pages, with 24 illustrations. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1953. Price, $4.00.As an example of what a regional book for mountaineers should be, this can scarcely be excelled. These peaks, ...
Chari Khand. Nasir Ali and I with two Hunza porters made a short attempt on Chari Khand (19,300 feet) from the Naltar valley north of Gilgit in November 1955. The only route appearing feasible was to try to gain the upper reaches of the glacier on...
Qioqe Peninsula, West Greenland. The second Hessian Greenland Expedition with eight men and my wife Anne left Frankfurt by air on June 27 for Søndre Strømfjord. We continued by helicopter to Umanak, where a fishing boat was chartered. We climbed f...
Colorado—Stonewall Canyon, near Fort Collins: On April 6, 1952, Dr. R. H. Udall fell 20 feet breaking his right leg and suffering internal injuries. The cause of the accident was a rappel point which gave way. This point had been chosen and the ro...
Laupers Bjerg. Iain Macdonald, Adam Hyne, Neil Smith and I left the UK on July 17. Making use of plane, helicopter and boat, we arrived at the head of Tasilaq Fjord (66°06') on the east coast of Greenland four days later. A seven-day ski-and-pulka...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE FOOTWEARCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 18, Amy Khoo (19), Matthew Enu (24) and a newly met climbing partner, Joey Chiarucci (26) were using technical climbing equipment to climb the lower Yosemite Fal...
Iskander, South Face, New Route. A. Zhiltsov led a Tatarstan Republic team of N. Akifiev and A. Akhmadiev on a new route on the south face of Iskander (5120m) from July 20-25. The south face of Iskander is a ca. 800-meter granite buttress with ove...
The year 2006 marked the 60th anniversary of the formation of the famous Italian climbing club, Ragni di Lecco (Lecco Spiders). Five members visited the Hombori region in December as part of the celebrations. In three weeks of climbing Cesare Buga...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Despite 1957’s undependable weather in the Northwest, several members completed noteworthy climbs during the summer. In particular, three routes on Mount Rainier were ascended for the first time. A party that included Fred...
Fitz Roy Climbed by a Woman in Winter. On June 17, Erica Beuzenberg and Gottlieb Braun-Elwert from New Zealand completed the fourth winter ascent of Fitz Roy. They followed the Supercanaleta. Because of unusually good weather clear sky and no wind...
Nanda Kot. An Indian expedition led by Miss Chandra Prabha Aitwal climbed Nanda Kot (6861 meters, 22,510 feet). Details are missing.
Attempt on Mount McKinley. Dr. George Cloutier, Gary Kenwood, Henry Marshall and Theodore Anderson reached 17,000 feet on the west buttress route of Mount McKinley before being turned back by adverse weather. After being airlifted to the Kahiltna ...
Hagshu Attempt. Britons John Barry and John Romo set up their Base Camp on September 12 in bad weather. They attempted the peak by the north gully but bad weather defeated them. (Apparently, the first ascent of Hagshu was made by Poles several yea...
Denbor Brakk (4,800m), southwest face, Bloody Mary. In July, after a period of bad weather in the valley, Vasek Satava and Pavel Jonak packed their gear and found themselves at the southwest face of Denbor Brakk (Nangma Valley). They then attempte...