FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierOn July 4, 1985, at 0100, Jay DeRocher (29) was struck by spontaneous rockfall from Cathedral Rocks Gap while attempting to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. DeRocher was struck on the left side of the t...
Cordillera Huallanca. Our team of ten included climbers and doctors: Mario Guiliano Mainini, Desiderio Dottori, Renato Beretta, Mario Corsalini, Diomiro Mancini, Mario Moretti, Dr. Dino Checchia, Dr. Enzo Bianchini, Celso Salvetti and me as leader...
Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents. Our group of ten from Toronto was flown to the upper basin of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The weather was good, the Base Camp was placed in a fabulous setting at 8600 feet, we were the third party and ...
Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer and I established the first route on the last formation before the pass to El Monstruo, across the valley from Trinidad Sur. We c...
Annapurna, Winter Attempt. After our success on Yalung Kang, Laurence de la Ferrière and I wanted to climb Annapurna by the 1950 French route on the north face. Knowing the dangers, we hoped to climb alpine-style, taking advantage of our acclimati...
Acopán Tepui. Pizza, Chocolate y Cerveza. In March, back in Venezuela again, we were preparing for another intense tepui (flat-topped mountain) experience. John Arran, nicknamed “La Máquina” by the Venezuelans, was particularly keen following last...
Mount Mitchell, North Face, Wind River Range. Dick Dorworth and I stumbled into this fine free new route, trying to find Chouinard’s north-face route. In our first attempt we were driven off by hail three pitches up. The difficulty and the lack of...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. An all-female expedition consisting of Mrs. Grace Hoeman, Margaret Young, Margaret Clark, Mrs. Dana Isherwood, Faye Kerr, and Arlene Blum were climbing McKinley.The 5th of July all members rested at 17,200 foot level. At 05:0...
FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 28, 1989, the North Ireland Alaskan Expedition left for the West Buttress of Mount McKinley in order to acclimatize for the Cassin. After taking eight days to reach 4300 meters and spend...
Julliard Mountain Club. The Julliard Mountain Club, founded in the blackened depths of Manhattan’s upper west side in 1965 by Dobbs Hartshorne, began its activities with weekend rock climbs at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut. In the next four years...
Cuerno Este, first ascent, Lauchon Este. In early March 2006 Milena Gomez and I, both Argentine, completed the first ascent of Cuerno Este. We approached the peak from the Bader Valley.Our new route, which we christened Lauchon Este, climbs a line...
P 9100, Delta Range. During the last week of July, Mike Litzow, Eric Sloan and I slogged up the Casner Glacier, over Thunder Pass and down onto the Johnson Glacier. We climbed P 9100 by its west ridge in poor weather, encountering no real climbing...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, IMPROPERLY PLACED RELAY ANCHOR,POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount VictoriaOn August 19, 1991, David B., Ian F., and Renata S. were descending from Abbot’s Pass hut around 0830, and reached the bergschrund about 0900. ...
Haramosh Southwest Face. Our expedition was composed of Janusz Baranek, leader, Mieczystaw Jarosz, Mirosiaw Konewka, Kazimierz Malczyk, Andrzej Mostek, Jan Nogas, Dr. Jadwiga Skowronska, Jacek Wiltosinski and Karimierz Wszolek. Base Camp was at 32...
Hoja, Sangre de Condor. In the French Valley a Columbian-Venezuelan team climbed a new route on Hoja. Columbians Sergio Garcia and Sebastian Munoz and Venezuelans Manuel [last name unknown] and Jorge Guerra faced bad conditions for most of their c...
The Indian Mountaineering Foundation, new appointments. During November elections for the President and the Governing Councils of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation were held in New Delhi. The current President, Shri N. N. Vohra, was elected una...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Darko Berljak led a group of 12 Yugoslavs and Americans in an attempt on Annapurna. Miroslav Sveticic intended to climb the virgin west face solo but did not actually attempt it. His teammates climbed the Dutch route on t...
Tirich Mir. On July 22 our Spanish expedition established Base Camp in Babou Kapoun at 15,400 feet. We were Antonio Bahí, Dr. Amando Redondo, Jorge Camprubí, Ramón Majó, Enrique Bonastre, José Lleonart, José María Díaz, Juan Frontera, Franz Ludwig...
Cho Oyu, Post-Monsoon Spanish Expeditions. Our expedition from Navarra was composed of Dr. José María Artetxe, Alfonso Ballano, Javier Bermejo, Juan Beroiz, Pili Ganuza (f), José Miguel Goñi, Agustín Pagola and me as leader. On September 2, we arr...
Stanford Alpine Club. Most of the practice climbs were rained out during the winter. During Easter vacation, however, members drove to Nevada to climb Montgomery Peak (13,465 feet), on the California-Nevada border, and then proceeded to the Hot Cr...