Cold Sweat on MakaluPierre Beghin, Groupe de Haute MontagneFOR HALF AN HOUR our group had been clustered about the radio at our 4900-meter Base Camp at the foot of Makalu. Guy Chaumerueil, leaning over the radio-telephone, was about to explain to ...
“Lotos Peak,”first ascent. Michal Krol, a young mountaineer from southern Poland, and I set off in late August for a climbing trip to the Miyar Valley. Relatively few expeditions have climbed in this region, one of the first being an Italian team ...
Mike died in the mountains and is buried by the snows. It seems so sadly appropriate, doing what he loved, ending there. The odd thing is that he had stood on a glorious summit shortly beforehand, something he hadn’t done for 22 years. A co...
Canyonlands, Zeus, Sisyphus. In late October, Chip Chace and I free-climbed Zeus, the 300-foot sister spire of Moses. The route follows an old aid line on the southeast side, involving mostly thin cracks. Three 5.11 sections are encountered, well ...
Ocshapalca, South Face. It was reported that the French team of Jean Noel Roux, Jean Emanuel Sicart and Christophe Vigne climbed the 500-meter south face of Ocshapalca directly to the West Top on August 17, 1995, encountering sections of 80- to 90...
La Columna. The Juncal massif, rising at the sources of the Aconcagua river, has several summits over 19,000 feet. Its lowest, the northwest peak, 5615 meters or 18,420 feet, had remained unclimbed. Using the North Juncal Glacier G. Cassasa, D. De...
Wildwood Wisdom, by Ellsworth Jaeger. 8vo., xix + 491 pages, with 193 illustrations from drawings. New York, The Macmillan Co., 1945. Price $2.95.The author, who is Curator of Education at the Buffalo Museum of Science, has prepared a remarkably c...
Mount Mitchell, Northwest Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Molly Higgins and I made this climb, starting on the far right side of the northwest face. It is easily identified by a slab that leads to a straight one-inch crack in a right...
Charm School Boutique, repeat. Between The Journey Home and The Cruise on North Chasm View Wall, Jeff Achey found an improbable line called Charm School Boutique (5.12 A2+; AAJ 2004, pp. 180-181). In May, Steve Monks and I free-climbed it, with th...
Mounts Logan, Steele, Wood, Augusta and Upton, Icefield Ranges. During the 1987 climbing season there were 14 groups that climbed in the Icefield Ranges, as well as five that skied. Most of the expeditions were on Mount Logan. Canadians Steve Lang...
Shipton Spire, East Face. Charles Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Collum, and I arrived in Islamabad the first week of June. Our good friend, Gullam Rasoul, traveled for several days from his home village of Hushe to meet us and help us go through the absu...
This is the nineteenth report of the Safety Committee and the sixth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. A number of accidents that had not been previously reported or included in the statistics have come to the attention of the Committe...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, MISCOMMUNICATION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleA. and T. (30) began the ascent of the southeast end of Mount Rundle on Wednesday morning, April 8, 1983, with the intention of traversing the ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY/ANCHORBritish Columbia, Squamish, Stawamus Chief, ExasperaterD.G. (41) fell 30 meters to his death while rock climbing on the Stawamus Chief on May 31. D.G. was an experienced climber who was roped into a harness at ...
Mount Everest, Winter Ascent. The Japanese Lhotse expedition mentioned above, led by Kazuyuki Takahashi, acclimatized by making the successful ascent of that peak. They then climbed Everest by the South Col. On December 16 Takashi Ozaki, Noboru Ya...
Heiss-Spitz (13,251 ft.) was the next first ascent accomplished by Messrs. Long and Nelson. This mountain is not in the Grenadier Range proper—it lies to the south across the valley of Ten-mile Creek. Its ascent was not particularly difficult.
Everest, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. A 13-man South Korean expedition attempted to climb Mount Everest by the South Col route. The leader was Oh In-Hwan. The highest point reached was 7850 meters, about an hour below the South Col, which was to be the...
North of Scorsbysund, Liverpool Land exploratory ski-moun- taineering. We aimed to investigate the ski potential of the coastal peaks of northeast Greenland. Liverpool Land was chosen for its interesting geography, high latitude, and relative acce...
Spitsberen, Various Activity. Spitsberen is a group of islands north of Norway (78°N); Longyearbien is the capital. They were originally discovered in the 17th century and used as a base on a number of attempts on the North Pole by Nansen and othe...
Cashan Este, Southwest Ridge. An Andes [commercial group] expedition, led by Martin Akhurst, was in the Cordillera Blanca in June. Between June 23-25 they made an ascent of Cashan Este (5,716m) by the southwest ridge (from the col with Shacsha). A...