December 17, 1954.Dear Sir:Ever since Mt. Everest was determined to be the highest known point on the earth’s surface, its elevation, as published by responsible and irresponsible sources, has fluctuated alarmingly from the figure computed by the ...
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Michel Formin, and Vitali Todorenko climbed directly up the famous south pillar of Ushba, adding 130m of possibly new ground on the steep central section. The center of the pillar was climbed to two-thirds height in 1...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Frenchman Philippe Berger and a companion tried to climb Annapurna Dakshin by its southwest ridge. They reached 5750 meters (18,865 feet) on May 13 but could not go higher.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK – SCRAMBLING WITH FULL PACK, WEATHER and FALL OFF LOG – STREAM CROSSINGWashington, North Cascades National Perk, Inspiration TraverseOn July 26, Cathleen (50) and Bob Terczak (50’s) were on day four of an alpine traverse across the so...
Carstensz Pyramid, Irian Jaya (New Guinea). This is the highest peak (5030 meters, 16,503 feet or 4884 meters, 15,023 feet) in Australasia. We pursued it as a part of Pat Morrow’s successful quest to climb the highest mountain on all seven contine...
Two Southern Peaks of New ZealandKate GardinerWHEN winter winds are sweeping through the leafless trees of New Jersey and the Canadian Rockies are again shrouded in snow, a new summer has begun on the other side of the world and the foothills of t...
Flakstadoy Island, Stortinden, Slovakiaruta. Miro Mrava and Brano Turcek, two climbers from the Slovak Mountaineering Union, JAMES, spent two weeks in northern Norway from August 2 to 17. On the 10th they made a new route on Stortinden, an 866m pe...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount ShuksanOn July 7, Duane Morrison (34) set out with eleven other climbers of the Seattle Mountaineers to climb Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades National Park. The route was the Sulfid...
Cayesh from the EastMark RicheyIn THE SOUTHERN REGION of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, a razor-edged sword of a mountain, Nevado Cayesh, slices boldly into the Andean sky.Cayesh had been climbed only once before to its summit of 18,770 feet. Many...
STUCK RAPPEL ROPE, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - BOOTS Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Bihedral WallBeth M. Davis (52) fell while trying to retrieve a stuck rappel rope after climbing in Boulder Canyon on October 31. Davis and her partner were ra...
Mountain Man, the Story of Belmore Browne. Robert H. Bates. Amwell Press, Clinton, N.J., 1989. 470 pages. 33 color paintings, over 100 black-and-white reproductions of original art, 22-page photographic insert. $47.50.The title goes on to read, “H...
Alaska Range Traverse. Kevin Armstrong, John Burcham, Jeffrey Ottmers, and Doug Woody began the first continuous foot traverse* of the Alaska Range just south of Tok, Alaska on May 20. They were prepared for an arduous 76-day journey along the spi...
Mt. Humphreys. During the past summer an ascent of Mt. Humphreys, 13,972 ft., loftiest mountain in the Sierra Nevada north of the Palisades, was made from the east up a great cleaver like ridge, involving an excellent rock climb of several thousan...
K7 Alpine StyleThe Karakoram Summer continues with a rapid second ascent of a 20~year~old route that originally took 40 days to climb, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.Doug ChabotWe were climbing even lighter than we intended. I reached for a cam and re...
Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak. We arrived in Delhi during mid- September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village of Darcha on the well-used Manali Leh military road. Three short days of trekking along the Jankar Nala, northwest of Darch...
This is the eleventh annual report of the reported mountaineering accidents that occurred in the United States and Alaska during 1957. Six additional accidents that had occurred during 1956 were reported and the statistics for 1956 have therefore ...
WEATHER, PROBABLY HYPOTHERMIA, combined with SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, the “Free at Last” expedition discovered three deceased climbers—Thomas Downey (52), Scott Hall (34), and Jimmy Hinkhouse (52)—at Wind...
NIELS-HENRIK LAPAIN ANDERSEN 1947-1973The dream of Niels Andersen to climb the major north faces of the Alps was tragically shattered on the Matterhorn when he and Warren Bleser fell descending the Hörnli Ridge in storm. Last seen on the north fac...
Summary of Trango Ascents. Eight routes have been climbed on the Trango Nameless Tower (6239 meters, 20,470 feet). There have been 13 ascents to the summit. 1. June 8, 1976, Britons Anthoine, Boysen, Brown, Howells, southwest face (new). 2. June 1...
Canada: Before moving to an overall view of the past year's Canadian accidents, there are two items of business I would like to mention. The first is the departure of Orvel Miskiw as Canadian editor. Orvel served as ANAM’s Canadian correspondent f...