ROLAND PALMEDO 1896-1977Roland was better known in ski mountaineering than in technical climbing circles. His activity in developing interest in skiing during the 1930s was exceeded by no one, probably not even equaled. In the incorporation of The...
Baltoro Kangri on Skis. Baltoro Kangri, formerly called the Golden Throne, has five distinct summits, the highest of which is 23,880 feet. It was climbed by Japanese in 1963 and 1976 from the Duke of Abruzzi Glacier via the prominent col to the ea...
This My Voyage, by Tom Longstaff. 324 pages, with 23 illustrations and 14 sketch maps. London: John Murray, 1950. Price, 21/-.This remarkable book of adventuring is the autobiography of a recent past-president of the Alpine Club who is still going...
The Committee thinks it desirable, before making specific recommendations, to point out certain conditions pertaining to mountaineering in our time which may have had unfortunate effects. These comments are not based exclusively on the foregoing l...
Frontier Group, various climbs. In the Frontier Group of the Waddington Range, Bob Hamilton, Billy Hood, Neil McGougan, Dave Ritchie, and we did several climbs, all except one of which (Bottleneck) we believe to be new. Our thanks to Don Serl and ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount MalloyOn a Sierra Club trip to Mt. Malloy on July 21, 1985, a woman (35) was unable to self arrest a sitting glissade in soft snow down a 30 degree chute while descending the mounta...
Mountaineers. The Mountaineers enjoyed a successful year in 1949. Membership is now almost 2000, with the main group in Seattle and smaller branches in Tacoma and Everett. Activities range from musicales, old-time dances and a yearly outdoor play ...
REPORT OF THE SAFETY COMMITTEE OF THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB1950The mountain accidents reported during 1949 from the English-speaking portions of North America have fortunately been fewer than those of the previous two seasons. Particularly striking...
Fox Jaw Cirque, various ascents. During July, Matteo Della Bordella, Richard Felderer, Lorenzo “Pala” Lanfranchi, and Simone Pedeferri from the Ragni di Lecco climbed four new routes in the Fox Jaw Cirque.The team climbed five routes in 20 days an...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE, FATIGUE Alaska, Pioneer PeakOn Monday, March 16, 1987, at 0330,I was contacted by Bruce McCormick of the Alaska Mountain Rescue Group and requested to respond to a staging area al...
Mount Burney, PatagoniaEric E. ShiptonMOUNT Burney is a volcano standing near the northwest corner of the Muñoz Gamero Peninsula, which is about 2000 square miles in area. Though a familiar landmark seen from ships passing through Smyth and Union ...
Over 15 days during February 2012, Mason Earle (U.S.), Sam Farnsworth (U.K.), Siebe Vanhee (Belgium), and I weaved an improbable, intricate path directly behind Salto Tuyuren, topping out within a stones throw of where the waterfall bursts from th...
Alpinisme Hivernal, by Marcel Kurz. Payot, Paris, Second printing, 1928. F. 50.The reprinting of this justly famous work is a propitious moment to bring it to the attention of our readers. One of the few books written in French on winter mountaine...
A JET. YES, I was sure it was a jet. It was only slightly different, but uniquely so, from the roar of avalanches thundering down everywhere around us. I’d only recently seen huge tongues of boiling snow flickering out from the base of the wal...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressClaude Ratté was a member of the Quebecoise 2008 Expedition, which consisted of two party members out of Quebec. Richard Cadorette, the second team member, had left the expedition ap...
Antarctic InterludeWilliam R. LatadyON 19 February 1948 the U. S. Navy icebreakers Burton Island and Adisto plowed through the three feet of ice that gripped the wooden tug Port of Beaumont. The tug had been locked in the ice for a year; and its c...
Simian Climbing Club. The 1966–1967 school year was a busy one for the University of Illinois Simians. More than 100 members received club instruction in rock climbing, while attendance at outings to Portland Arch in Indiana and Devils Lake, Wisco...
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2007-2008 season overview. This season 7,658 climbers and trekkers arrived at the provincial park, 345 more than last season (visitation grows yearly by about 5–10%). Of these, 4,548 had a climbing permit, 1,400 succeeded (abou...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Grand TraverseOn July 19 about 1030,1 received a call from Fred of Butte, Montana. Fred voiced concern for a friend and climbing partner of his, Dwight Bishop (49), wh...
Our trip had an adventurous spirit, partly because we are 19- and 20-year-old geology students with a lot of time and little money And Norway is one of the last places in Europe where you can enjoy true adventure. For us, during our last year at h...