FEW mountain climbers there are who have not spent untold hours arguing over the merits of this or that ice axe, or whether Tricouni or Swiss edge nails are better, or any one of the innumerable controversial subjects involved in mountaineering eq...
At the highest levels of alpinism, altitude continues to be less and less of a factor in the style climbers choose to make an ascent. This is not a new trend, but it was illustrated with an exclamation point in 1997 as climbs on Latok II, Thalay S...
The Grand Teton by the North FaceFritiof M. FryxellIN the history of the Grand Teton, the climbing season of 1931 will probably take rank as the most notable. Early in the summer, two wholly new routes to the summit and one partly new, were added ...
Arrow Peak (13,810 ft.) was the major climb of the season. Carleton Long, leading, and John Nelson performed it in twelve hours from Ten-mile Creek. This is one of the finest expeditions in the San Juans, and was the first of the Grenadier Range’s...
The Springs of Adventure, by Wilfrid Noyce. Cleveland and New York: The World Publishing Company, 1958. 255 pages; 21 ills. Price $4.00.We have all had to cope with that eternal question of the non-climber— "Why do you do it?” Hereafter, I shall m...
At 18,008' and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the worlds biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus Warring and Ryan Bougie and I (Telluride, CO) wanted to climb the southwest ridge (Harvard Route) and then ski as much of the mou...
The Logan Mountains, Northwest TerritoriesARNOLD WEXLERThere has been little in the way of mountaineering in the northern latitudes east of Alaska and the western fringes of the Yukon. This may be due, in part, to the prevalent notion among climbe...
Cho Oyu Attempt. Matt Baker, Ney Grant, Ron Reno, Kirk Swanson, Dr. Rich Gerhauser and I as leader, accompanied by Base Camp helpers Sue Baker, John Bell and Mona Livingston, attempted the so-called traditional “southwest” ridge route from Nepal, ...
An Unrealized HazardA Sermon for Mountaineers*Frank E. GaebeleinIN the little town of Moose, Wyoming, there is a log chapel. A small building, it is known far and wide, because behind the altar there is a spacious window through which the worshipp...
THE High Sierra has two outstanding big-wall climbs: the west face of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) and the east face of Keeler Needle (14,300 feet). Both faces were first ascended by parties led by Warren Harding in successive years after his ...
Tsaranoro Massif, Various Ascents. Just after the departure of the Polish group (see above), the six-member Slovak group of Alexander Buzinkay, Ivan Doskocil, Vladimir Linek, Rado Staruch, Rasto Simko (as a climbing cameraman) and Ivan Stefansky c...
Cololo, Palomani Grande, Huanacuni and Nubi, Cordillera Apolobamba. David Tyson, Pamela Holt and I climbed on both sides of the Peruvian-Bolivian border during August. We had Base Camp for two weeks at the head of Lago Nubi, from which we climbed ...
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, Voces en la Noche. While exploring in 2008, Josh Beckner glimpsed a large granite wall in Argentina’s remote Pirita Valley of the upper Rio Turbio drainage. On February 26,2009, Beckner, Jared Spaulding, and I crossed L...
Naming America’s Mountains—The CascadesFrancis P. FarquharThe Cascade Range is defined by the United States Geographic Board (Sixth Report, 1933) as "limited on the south by the gap south of Lassen Peak and extending northward into British Columbi...
A High-level Glacier Route from Jasper to FieldOne of the features of classical mountaineering in the Alps was the development of the high-level route between Chamonix and Zermatt. As originally laid down by Jacomb,1 in 1862, this required four da...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. On September 25, Rob Mahoney, Kevin O’Meara and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet on the Yamatari Glacier on the south side of Kumbhakarna. On October 1, we moved to Camp I at 17,000 feet. Camp II was established ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OVERCONFIDENCEColorado, DurangoAfter 17 years of rock climbing, bad judgment finally caught up with me. Don’t let it happen to you. Climbing near Durango, I was on a route well within my ability and moved about...
Nanga Parbat, First Ladies-Only Ascent. The first all-woman expedition to Nanga Parbat successfully climbed the mountain. The party consisted of Poland’s top women climbers: Dobroslawa Wolf, Anna Czerwinska, Krystyna Palmowska and Wanda Rutkiewicz...
Berchtesgadener Alpen, a collection of articles, issued by the German Alpenverein. 232 pages, with 100 illustrations, and a sketch map. Munich: Bruckmann, 1950.Certainly very few mountains in the world have been so intensively climbed over as the ...
Agujas Saint Exupery, Rafael Juarez, and Poincenot, traverse. Beginning on February 18 Jonny Copp and I enchained Saint Exupery, Aguja Rafael Juarez, and Aguja Poincenot in a 52-hour roundtrip from Polacos high camp. After oversleeping we left Pol...