Everest Attempt. A six-man Australian expedition was led by Michael Groom. They first attempted to climb the west ridge of Everest from the Western Cwm, getting to 7400 meters on April 24. They then turned to the South Col route, where they reache...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—PULLED OUT, FATIGUE Utah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn October 1, 1988, a male climber (35) was making a move at the top of a climb on Ledgemore Wall when his hand slipped from a hold and he fell ten meters, his prot...
Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain Travel Books. Diadem Books, London & The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 800 pages. $30.00.This is the age of re-runs, revivals, retreads of old classics. On Broadway, in the White House and the air waves, nostalgia...
The Mountain World 1955. English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. 222 pages, 64 illustrations, 24 maps. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1955. Price $6.00.The third annual volume published by the Swiss Research Foundation is even better than its pr...
Guillaumet and Mermoz. Briton Andy Parkin and American Stephen Koch completed a new route on the Aguja Guillaumet’s southeast face on February 2. The difficult route lies to the left of the Piola route. It begins up a large central couloir and fin...
Trivor. An Anglo-American expedition under the leadership of Wilfred Noyce made the first ascent of Trivor (25,325 feet) in the Hispar Muztagh. From the Trivor Glacier they reached the col between Trivor and Momhil Sar, where they established Camp...
Mount Moffit, Northwest Ridge, 1975. After a reconnaissance, Mike Sallee, Doug Buchanan, Jim Jennings and I started up the northwest ridge of Mount Moffit and placed camps at 7000 and 9800 feet. After fixing the route up a 600-foot face and along ...
Mount Hooker, Brain Larceny. In September 1994, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey established Brain Larceny (V 5.12 R) on the north face of Mount Hooker. Further details are lacking. (See photo on following page.)
AVALANCHE, PARTY SEPARATED—NO RESCUE ATTEMPT Alaska, Flattop MountainIn October of 1992, four Anchorage climbers were ascending a gully on Flattop Mountain just outside of Anchorage when they were struck by an avalanche. Two were buried, one poppe...
Annapurna South or Moditse. The Sendai Alpine Club expedition led by Yuji Sasaki in the post-monsoon season was prevented from reaching the top by bad weather and technical difficulties.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Other climbs in the Bugaboos. A party consisting of Ed Cooper, Art Gran, and Rome Sadowy ascended the north ice face of Anniversary Peak, probably for the first time. This 2000-foot crescent shaped ice slope rises from the Bugaboo Glacier tongue a...
Everest Attempt. An Indian expedition led by Pranesh Chakraborty unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Everest via the Great Couloir. On September 22, they got to 7500 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Mount McKinley, New Start on the American Direct Route, South Face. A Japanese expedition led by Kichitaka Kimura and composed of Ms. Tamae Watanabe, Yuji Tsuneto, Mitsuo Yamaura and Yushichi Senda made a new direct start on the direct route of th...
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m). On July 9 Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza reached the summit of Broad Peak North after climbing a...
Mushroom Route, Papoose Rock. The right half of Papoose’s front face, just above the Squamish-Woodfibre Ferry Dock, had not yielded a route until this two-pitch climb was done by Dave Beckstead and me in October. The climb scales a fairly difficul...
EDWARD OLIVER WHEELER 1890–1962Brigadier Sir Oliver Wheeler who died in March, 1962 was the son of our late member Arthur O. Wheeler and the father of our member John O. Wheeler. Arthur O. Wheeler joined the American Alpine Club in 1903 and died i...
On the right side of the east face lies a thin, straight couloir, almost a chimney, that provides an unbroken line of very steep water ice from the ’schrund to within 80 feet of the summit. This hose makes a fine alpine ice route that goes to a di...
AAC, Alaska Section. The Alaska Section’s members were active not only in Alaska, but around the world in the past year. Members traveled to Antarctica, the Himalaya, South America, the Continental United States, and Europe. Within Alaska, members...
Pucaranra, West Ridge. A strong Italian expedition climbed a difficult new route, the west ridge of Pucaranra (20,168 feet). We were Renato Binaghi, Elio Boreatti, Dr. Emma Cucchi, Eugenio Porro, Antonio and Gianni Rusconi, Andrea Sioli, Gianbatti...
University of Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club has been one of the most active in the midwest since 1953, when we separated from the Chicago Mountaineering Club. Our club has been instrumental in the development of Devils Lake, Wisconsin, int...