AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. The work of Chairman Steve Schneider, Jane Koski, Tadeusz Gladczenko, Tony Watkin, Paul Romero, and others was reflected in the fact that our section grew to over 900 members by year’s end. A brief wrap-up of the year’s...
CHRISTINE LINCOLN REID1906-1990Christine Reid, known to her friends as “Pussy” or “Pooh,” was an enthusiastic mountaineer, skier and white-water canoeist. She was born on May 8, 1906 in Belmont, California and received her early education there in...
Tsuyoshi Nagai, Tadao Shintani, and I returned from Tibet in November, after five weeks and 4,800km of travel. Accompanied by Zhang Jiyue of Sichuan Earth Expeditions, we had been exploring unknown peaks and glaciers in the Nyanchen Tanglha East a...
Selkirk Range of British Columbia, 1945. In August 1945 A. J. Kauffman, II, with several companions, made a number of ascents in the Southern Selkirks, concerning which the following notes have been received:“We made a dozen or so climbs, includin...
Yosemite Valley, Various Activity. Dean Potter, in outlandishly bold style, made a new solo speed record of the Regular route on Half Dome. Taking only 4:17 (and smashing the old record by 16 hours), Potter free-soloed most of the route, carrying ...
Spies in the Himalayas: Secret Missions and Perilous Climbs. M.S. Kohli and Kenneth Conboy. Lawrence: University of Kansas Press, 2003. 248 pages. Hardcover. $29.95.It’s hard to imagine climbers playing a role in the nuclear political drama of the...
TERRANCE MANBECK “MUGS” STUMP1949-1992Snow swirls softly in the gray sky and settles deeply over the fractured ice, muting its soft edges. Higher, the bitter wind hurls itself against the ridges and buttresses of Denali, the Great One, the soul of...
Mt. Foraker, Infinite Spur, Ascent by Lads. At 4 p.m. on May 26, Gren Hinton and I skied into the Infinite Spur's amphitheater. In the afternoon heat, the walls all around us began to wake after a storm and, restlessly stretching, began to shed th...
The north face of Putala Shan is an impressive big wall, which I have tried twice. I have not attempted the same mountain twice since 1990, when I made my last winter solo attempt on Fitz Roy in Patagonia. My first attempt on Putala did not go wel...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, NO HARD HATColorado, Hallett PeakPaul Briggs (32) and Larry Layman (32) were climbing the Northcut-Cartel route on Hallett Peak. Layman had just run out a length of the rope when, for some unknown reason, he fell. He ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – KNOT PULLED THROUGH BOLT HANGERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 27, Jim Fisher (30) and I, Scott Earnest (27), set out to climb Lurking Fear (20 pitches, VI 5.10 A3), our first El Cap route. W...
Red Rocks Routes. Some of the routes done in the Red Rocks since the completion of the manuscript for my guidebook in 1981. Black Velvet Canyon: Sandblast (5.9), FFA October 1985 by Nick Nordblom, Paul Van Betten. This is a free ascent of the aid ...
Tocllaraju on Two Artificial Legs. Following a railway accident 24 years ago, Englishman Norman Croucher has had metal replacements below the knees on both legs. He has made many routes in the Alps as well as ten ascents over 16,000 feet, includin...
AMS-ASCENDING TOO FAST, LATE START, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn July 16, Jans Hogenacker (22) and his party of seven—who had little experience and were unable to recognize the symptoms of AMS as they developed— w...
Trango Nameless Tower, South Face, First Japanese Ascent. Three Japanese recorded the first Japanese ascent of Trango Tower (6239 m) via the south face Slovenian Route on July 17 at 4 p.m. Their ascent took them 27 days. Group leader Tatsuo Shinoh...
Pensive Tower, Gloomy Ruminations. Over a gorgeous Labor Day weekend, Bryan Schmitz, Neil Kauffman, and I ventured into the West Fork of Rock Creek in the Beartooth Mountains and completed a new route on Pensive Tower. The tower’s west face is bor...
Waterfall Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. In January, Jay Smith and I completed the first ascent of a waterfall on the northeast face of Mount Rundle, locally called the “Drip,” which had turned back many of the best climbers in the area. We spent...
Sudarshan Parbat and Other Peaks, Gangotri Glacier. Our expedition consisted of five climbers and two doctors from India: Zerksis Boga, C.D. Danthi, Vijay Kothari, Kanu Pomal and me as leader, Dr. Rodhan Shroff and Dr. Vasant Desai; and four climb...
Matt Helliker and I climbed a new route on the amazing east face of the Moose’s Tooth, rising from the Buckskin Glacier. There’s a Moose Loose Aboot This Hoose (1,400m, ED 4, M8 A2 AI6) climbs the obvious big fault line, attempted by Christophe Du...
This is the fifty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-eighth issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: In 2005 an unprecedented summer avalanche warning was issued for...