Washington, Mt. Goblin—On May 22, Andrew Hilen (18) and Walter Weld (18) with two companions hiked in to attempt an ascent of Mt. Goblin. They had made a partial ascent when they realized they could not reach the summit in good season. The weather...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long's PeakOn September 19, at 0930, Mike Riter (23) and partner Simeon Bateman (24) were ascending Lamb’s Slide on the east fac...
British Soviet Pamirs Expedition. The British members of our party were Sir John Hunt, leader; Dr. Malcolm Slesser, deputy leader; George Lowe, Wilfrid Noyce, Ralph Jones, Derek Bull, Ian McNaught-Davis, Ted Wrangham, Dr. Graeme Nicol, Joe Brown, ...
Attempt on El Toro, Cordillera Huayhuash. An English expedition led by Joe Brown and made up of Alan Hunt, Dave Alcock, Mo Anthoine, George Homer, Will Barker, Denis Kemp and journalist Mike Corner made a valiant attempt on El Toro (20,082 feet) b...
Putha Hiunchuli. Our attempt on the south face of Putha Hiunchuli failed at about 20,000 feet. All our equipment, tents, rope, were buried and lost in a snow avalanche at about 19,500 feet.Dieter Steigleiter, Deutscher Alpenverein
Aguja Saint Exupery, Chiaro de Luna, Techada Negro, Attempt, and Shady Wilson Spire, House of Cards. Chad Gamer and I made an ascent of Chiaro de Luna (5.11, 25 pitches) on Aguja Saint Exupery. The route takes a line near an indistinct prow on the...
Sloan Peak, East Face. Although only 600 feet high, the overall shear- ness of the east wall of this popular peak in the west central Cascades has discouraged previous attempts. (A 1965 route using the southeast corner of the face avoided the diff...
Czech Expedition to Kohe Tez, Akher Chaq, Kohe Urgent and Other Peaks. The Czech High Tatras Expedition was led by Miloslav Neumann. The other members were Z. Drlik, Dr. L. Divald, M. Greisel, M. Kriššak, P. Macak, M. Pelc, V. Petrik and V. Tatark...
“The Bat”, “The Coccyx”, “Perdition Peak”. These previously unnamed and unclimbed peaks on the Newhalem-Marble Creek and McAllister-Marble Creek divides were topped by Phil Dahl and me in August 1967. From the end of the overgrown logging road up ...
Annapurna I Attempt. For ten weeks from mid-March to the end of May we were on Annapurna. We were Siegfried Siebauer, leader, Günther Schnait, Erwin Beyerlein, Dr. Bernhard Einzinger, Heinz Herbert Güntner, Gerhard Kern, Karl Heinz Kimer, Jürgen K...
Mount Hunter, Northeast Ridge. On May 15 we were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was at 8200 feet on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Just above was the key to our route, a 1300-foot ice gully, which led to the top of the northeas...
Ostgletscher, near Qorqup Sermia Glacier, Southwest Greenland. Twenty-four members of the Brathay Exploration Group under my leadership visited southwest Greenland from July 26 to August 23. The members were senior boys from schools, undergraduate...
Baruntse, North Ridge Attempt. The north ridge of Baruntse has usually been attempted from the more accessible Khumbu region. Climbing to the ridge from this side can be very hazardous because of avalanche danger (AAJ, 1981, pages 249-251). Instea...
Cerro Ladrillero, from the northeast. In the austral extreme of the Americas, nature becomes savage, with steep geography that includes a labyrinth of islands, fjords and mountains, glaciers, deep forests of incredible colors, and land that’s diff...
Nun, Kun, and Kashmir peaks. Due to the troubles in the state of Kashmir no expeditions were permitted to the popular peaks of Nun and Kun. Similarly, no climbing has been allowed in the entire area of Kishtwar. Both southern Zanskar and Kishtwar ...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Jon Patterson, Peter Keane, Maury McKinney, Jeff Montgomery and I hoped to climb the east side of the south face of Annapurna and to continue up the east ridge, but high winds made us apply to change to the Bonington rout...
Glaciers of Mount Shasta. Several of the glaciers of Mount Shasta were visited and described, and their present condition compared with earlier observations.Fifty years ago the snout of Wintun Glacier is said to have reached the 8,000-ft. level, b...
Moses, Pale Fire, Canyonlands. In May, Chip Chace and Charlie Fowler made an all-free ascent of the original route on the north face of Moses in Taylor Canyon. The 600-foot route, when done completely free, requires two 5.11 pitches and one, the f...
HEAT EXHAUSTIONBritish Columbia, Coast Range, White MountainA group of young men and women were taking a four-day Introductory Mountain Walk Course of the Canadian Outward Bound School, Kermos, British Columbia. They left the school at 1030 hours ...
Fast and Light on Fitz RoyGalen A. RowellIn OCTOBER, 1985 Michael Graber, David Wilson, and I drove a thousand miles from Bariloche through the heart of Patagonia in the early spring. Our plan was to go fast and light on Fitz Roy, but we imagined,...