Kyes Peak, Northeast Ridge. An extended logging road on the north fork of the Sauk River makes this new route, climbed by me on September 14, the most direct of the three approaches available. From the road end follow good trail two miles to Curry...

SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains South, Mount Billy BuddOn August 18, J.C. and G.H. departed from a climbing camp located on north side of Houston Lake on a “day off’ hi...

Udren Zom Central. A nine-man Japanese expedition was led by Koji Hirai. On August 10 Toshinori Niwa, Koji Morita, Nobuyuki Sakurai, Terunobu Ishii and Michio Kubota climbed to the top (23,229 feet) from Camp IV at 22,000 feet. This was the first ...

Numbur Attempt. A Japanese expedition, led by Senkichi Kitaoka, attempted in the pre-monsoon season to climb the northwest ridge of Numbur (6959 meters, 22,832 feet). They got to Camp III at 21,650 feet but found the ridge beyond too knife-edged t...

Buckeye Mountain. This small peak lies on the south-southeast ridge from Whitehorse Mountain, about a half mile distant. Rich Carlstad and I made its first ascent on August 9, as a prelude to our fifth ascent of Mount Bullon the following day. Fro...

Rosh Gol Valley, Chitral, Hindu Kush Range. On July 7 Peter Far- quhar, my husband Gene and I with 12 members of the newly formed University of Peshawar Mountaineering Club, led by Mr. Farzand Ali Durrani, left the town of Chitral for the Rosh Gol...

Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of Austrians, Swiss and one Czechoslovakian was led by Hanns Schell. They were on the mountain at the same time as the West German expedition described below. After abandoning the Dutch route because of ...

Foraker Attempt. After trying for a week to run and hide from avalanches in the icefall leading to the northeast ridge of Mount Foraker, Peggy Scott (now my wife) and I finally decided to climb the ridge to the right of the icefall but ran out of ...

Peak Pobeda, Ski Descent, Attempt. “Mt. Victory” (pronounced po-byeh-da in Russian) was the last major peak in the Soviet Union to be scaled, and despite the popularity of skiing in the adjacent Pamirs, it still remains unskied in its entirety. Da...

Trident and Other Peaks, Cordillera Carabaya. Our party, W. Good-fellow, S. C. Dudley, D. G. Massam, R. G. McKenzie, Dr. G. G. Jackson, A. O. Parton, J. Dowd, A. N. H. Chinn and I as leader, was mostly from the Auckland Section of the New Zealand ...

Ingolfsfield, Angmagssalik Area, East Greenland. Information on two significant expeditions in 1971 eluded us until published in Mountain. Both hoped to climb Ingolfsfjeld (8698 feet), a peak that rises directly from the tide-water of Kangertitvas...

Berge in alle Ewigkeit, by Jost Perfahl. Salzburg/Stuttgart: Verlag Das Bergland Buch, 1960. 351 pages, with 22 plates (5 in color), and bibliography. Sw. Fr. 16.80.Mountain experiences and tragedies of all periods, from Hannibal to Harrer, form t...

Ali Ratni Tibba, Kulu. Our party consisted of Dave Nicol, my wife Marjorie Anne, Jim McArtney, Chris Radcliffe and me. From Advanced Base at 13,000 feet we climbed the whole of the route in two days, May 25 and 26, reaching the summit (18,013 feet...

Makalu Attempt. A Spanish expedition under the leadership of Miguel Gomez failed in their attempt to climb the southeast ridge of Makalu, reaching 7200 meters on October 16.Elizabeth Hawley

FALLING ROCKWashington, Mount RainierOn July 4, 1985, at 0100, Jay DeRocher (29) was struck by spontaneous rockfall from Cathedral Rocks Gap while attempting to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver Route. DeRocher was struck on the left side of the t...

Cordillera Huallanca. Our team of ten included climbers and doctors: Mario Guiliano Mainini, Desiderio Dottori, Renato Beretta, Mario Corsalini, Diomiro Mancini, Mario Moretti, Dr. Dino Checchia, Dr. Enzo Bianchini, Celso Salvetti and me as leader...

Pinnacle Peak and Other Ascents. Our group of ten from Toronto was flown to the upper basin of the south arm of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. The weather was good, the Base Camp was placed in a fabulous setting at 8600 feet, we were the third party and ...

Cochamó, Señor Cara de Papa, La Cara de Decepción. Mid-January, 2010, after two weeks of consistent rain, Matt Othmer and I established the first route on the last formation before the pass to El Monstruo, across the valley from Trinidad Sur. We c...

Annapurna, Winter Attempt. After our success on Yalung Kang, Laurence de la Ferrière and I wanted to climb Annapurna by the 1950 French route on the north face. Knowing the dangers, we hoped to climb alpine-style, taking advantage of our acclimati...

Acopán Tepui. Pizza, Chocolate y Cerveza. In March, back in Venezuela again, we were preparing for another intense tepui (flat-topped mountain) experience. John Arran, nicknamed “La Máquina” by the Venezuelans, was particularly keen following last...