Everest Attempt. Our “Climb for Hope Expedition” was organized to get charity money to combat the Rett Syndrome. Our members, mostly from Canada, were Ernie Sniedzins, Dr. Mario Bilodeau, Dr. Dennis Brown, Jamie Clarke, Ross Cloutier, Jim Everard,...
Soviet Climbers on Mount McKinley. On May 15 Reilly Moss and I arrived in Anchorage with Soviet mountaineers of the American Alpine Club exchange program, Eduard Myslovski, leader, Vladimir Shatayev, Sergei Efimov, Valia Ivanov, Oleg Borisenok and...
Gasherbrum II (8,035m), first winter ascent. On February 2, 2011, Simone Moro (Italian) Cory Richards (American), and Denis Urubko (Kazakh) reached the summit of Gasherbrum II via the Normal Route up the southwest ridge. The team made the summit i...
The Owls, Mount Weart East Ridge. Two subsidiary peaks each about 9000 feet on the east ridge of Mount Weart in Garabaldi Park were climbed June 5 by Terry Stafford and me and nicknamed the Owls. Although the ascents via the south side from the We...
HERBERT E. SAMPSON 1871–1962Herbert Sampson was born and educated in Toronto and moved to Regina in 1909 where he died on September 16, 1962. He was graduated from University College, University of Toronto in 1893 and received his Bachelor of Laws...
Mount Edith Cavell, North Face, Two New Routes. July 21 was Colorado’s big day on Edith Cavell. There was a pair from Boulder who did the classic Jones-Faint-Chouinard route on the same day as our two parties made new routes. Harry Kent and I were...
AAC, Cascade Section. In 2002 the Cascade Section hosted one main event and supported two others. On December 13 we had a reception and slideshow for members and guests with Carlos Buhler as our speaker. With over 160 people attending, the recepti...
Chopiraju Oeste, Kimarumi. On June 24 Jeff Lee, Merle Wheeler, Pat Weidman, Dick Webster and I entered the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and set up Base Camp at the opening of the Quebrada Cayesh the next day. On the 26th all but Jeff began a climb of Ch...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The past year was one of continued growth and expansion of the club’s activities. An unusually mild winter saw considerable activity at our local areas, particularly Devils Lake. One winter outing gained a possible f...
Talus: A History of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. Dean Engle. Peter Randall, Hanover, 1993. 253 pages, index, three appendices, many illustrations, two maps. $24.50.The DMC (not to be confused with the DOC—Dartmouth Outing Club) was started i...
Orion’s Reflection. The great canyon walls of the Wind River Range contain many spectacular features seldom seen by the climber, but perhaps nowhere are there more surprises than in the southeastern portion. Glimpses from the Bears Ears Trail in p...
Washington, Guye Peak—On April 10, Steve Hoit (17), and 17 other climbers climbed Guye Peak. The weather and climbing conditions were good. The party was well equipped and adequately clothed. The party descended en glissade down a steep snow slope...
AVALANCHE, BAD WEATHER Washington, Mt. RainierThis is an account of an accident which befell Willi Unsoeld (52) and 21 of his students from The Evergreen State College while attempting to climb Mt. Rainier in late February. It covers the essential...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Quandry MountainOn September 6, two climbers, a woman named Sunny (40) and her companion, a man (42), were ascending the Class 4 West Ridge on Quandry Mountain when Sunny slipped on loose...
Cho Oyu, southwest face to west ridge, partial new route. On October 2 the accomplished Slovenian mountaineer Pavle Kozjek soloed a partial new route to the summit of 8,188m Cho Oyu. Starting from an advanced base at 6,200m on the Gyabrag Lho Glac...
Trango Nameless Tower, Slovene Route. It was reported that the Spanish team of Txuma Ruiz and Julián Beraza repeated the Slovene Route. Further details are lacking.
Koktang. An Indian Army expedition of five members made the first ascent of Koktang (20,990 feet), which lies south of Kangchenjunga. Major K. S. Rana, Captain K.P.S. Ahluwalla and two Sherpas reached the summit on April 26.
Czechoslovakian Earthquake Victims, Llanganuco. A 15-man Czech expedition attempted the south face of Huandoy in May. On May 18, one of their number, Ivan Bortel, slipped and fell 100 feet down a brook bed while descending unroped on easy terrain ...
Peak 29. A Japanese expedition of eight men and two women was given up after three of them were killed by the blast of an avalanche on September 14. The group, led by Tumio Tanaka, was attempting the southwest face and south ridge of Peak 29. Camp...
Aguja Saint Exupery, Buscaini Route, Variation. The early part of March, 1997, witnessed a spell of ten days of good weather. Diego Magaldi and Jorge Kozulj climbed Aguja Saint Exupery during this window, following for the most part the Buscaini r...