T. M. Griffiths, Gordon Williams, and the writer, alternating the lead, made the first complete ascent of the north face of Mount Sneffels (14,143 ft.). The right couloir of the north face was followed to its junction with the northwest couloir, t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES British Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Crescent SpiresOn July 6, 1986, a solo climber (24) was attempting the Donkey Ears. It was cloudy and cool. About 2500 meters he came to a spot that was very di...
Chaukhamba. The third ascent of Chaukhamba (7138 meters, 23,120 feet) was made by Ajit Kumar Kalita, Rejen Gautom, Pallev Deka and Sherpa Kami on September 9. They had three high camps.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
San Rafael Swell, 1990. On April 25, 1990, I climbed Lightbulb, a bizarre 170-foot tower named for its overhanging bulbous shape. Located near the San Rafael River Campground, it is clearly visible from the road and requires a 30-minute approach. ...
Russell, North Ridge. On February 17, Dave McGivern, Leo Americus and I flew to 8200 feet on the upper Yenta Glacier. On the second day, we moved up to 9700 feet and dug another snow cave. We reconnoitered on the third day, sorting out and wanding...
Pacific Northwest Mount McKinley Expedition. On May 17 John Day, Peter Schoening, and Lou and Jim Whittaker climbed to the summit of Mount McKinley by the west buttress route.
Yalungkang Ascent and Tragedy. A Korean expedition led by Kim Teuk-Hee climbed the normal route on Yalungkang in winter but the summit climbers never returned. On December 20, Jin Kyo-Sup, Ang Dawa Sherpa and Tshering Tshemba Sherpa left Camp IV a...
Spider Peak, Northeast Buttress. Spider Peak is a remarkable remnant of the high-level erosion plateau of the northern portion of the Wind River Mountains. Brian Leo, Steve Jackson and I made an interesting new climb on August 31, following slabs ...
A. A. C., Sierra Nevada Section. Under Chairman Will Siri, Vice-Chairman Allen Steck, and Secretary-Treasurer Richard Houston, the Sierra Nevada Section held four meetings during 1953. Included in the activities were programs by Maurice Herzog on ...
Everest, Southwest Face Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Chung Woo-Sub, Nam Sun-Woo, Heo Jeong-Sik, Jung Gwang-Sig, Choi Tae-Sik, Cho Kwang-Je, Lee Sang-Lock, Park Young-Seok, Kim Jin-Sung, Koo Kyeong-Mo, Kim Seok-Jun and me as leader. We a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Utah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn October 9, 1988, a male climber (27) was ascending “Wheels on Fire” (5.8, 5.10- Direct) when he fell about 15 meters. Two pieces of protection pulled, and...
Everest Grand Circle: A Climbing and Skiing Adventure through Nepal and Tibet. Ned Gillette and Jan Reynolds. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 264 pages, 40 pages of color photographs, maps. $22.50.Some time ago, while changing channels, I caught ...
The Book of the Mountains, edited by A. C. Spectorsky. 492 pages, 87 pictures, numerous sketches. New York: Appleton-Century-Crofts, Inc. 1955. Price $10.00.This is a tremendous anthology that often takes the reader more into history, mythology an...
El Mocho and Torre de la Media Luna, 1993-4. In late December, Italians Ermanno Salvaterra and Adriano Cavallaro climbed a new route on the north face of El Mocho. At this time further details are not available. The same pair repeated the east but...
Mount Ghent Massif, Kondus Group. The German Institute for Foreign Research in Munich sent on June 29 its third expedition to the Himalayas. I was named leader of the "German-English-Pakistani Himalaya Expedition” (DEPAK). To the team also belonge...
Mount Hayes Traverse. On August 28 John Dattoli flew Jim Jennings, Dave Dausel and me to a gravel bar next to the Trident Glacier for an alpine-style attempt on Mount Hayes. Two days later we climbed up and over Levi’s Bump to camp in the col at...
Table Mountain, Heartbreak Ridge. It was reported that Paul Horton and Jon Stuart established Heartbreak Ridge on Table Mountain in July. The climb follows the south arête of the southernmost buttress. Horton was surprised to find 10 pitches of en...
FALL ON ROCK, FOOTHOLD BROKE OFF, CLIMBING UNROPED Arizona, Cochise Stronghold, Rockfellow DomeOn November 26, 1992, my friends and I (45) were checking out the climbs on Rockfellow Dome with the intention of climbing there the next day. At the ba...
Dhaulagiri I Attempt. Tasashi Amamiya was leader of the 17-man Tokyo Metropolitan Mountaineering Federation expedition, which attempted the south buttress of Dhaulagiri. Base Camp was set up on March 1 at 11,350 feet, Camp I at 14,750 feet on Marc...
Purcell Range. The Harvard Mountaineering Club held its summer climbing camp from August 8 to 28 in the Purcell Range of British Columbia. Ten climbers traversed from the Vermont Group to the Bugaboos, following with the exceptions outlined below ...