Paine Towers, 1989-90. The season in Patagonia had even worse weather than usual. In the Paine Towers Italian Guido Bonvicini made a solo ascent of the Torre Norte on November 25, 1989. That same day Mario Manica and Fabio Leoni also climbed the s...
FALL ON ROCK, EPILEPTIC SEIZUREWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 5,1987, Paul Sims (20) suffered an epileptic seizure while climbing. This caused him to fall. His belayer held him, but the seizure caused Sims to shake, and he then hit his...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez failed.
Huascarán Norte and Pisco. Raúl Bárcena Y, Guillermo Díaz R, Antonio Carmona and Vicente Hinojosa A climbed the normal route on Huascarán Norte, reaching the top on August 3. On August 11 Carmona, Samuel Díaz M, Andrés Méndez and Guillermo Díaz R ...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Summetry Spire. At 2100 on 13 August Joe Hogsed (19) and Betty Lu (21) were climbing the Durrance Ridge. They had completed the ridge and were scrambling the last 250 feet to the summit. The weather was bad; rain and thunder...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Swiss Stefan Wörner and Germans Hans Engl, Heinz Zembsch and me. We crossed into Tibet from Nepal via Kodari/Zhangmu, went to Tingri for a few days of acclimatization and continued by truck t...
Oak Creek Canyon, Pic de Coubertin. In celebration of the Olympic Centennial, the UIAA (which was in the area for a committee meeting) hired two local guides, Cameron Kern and Richard Elmquist, to climb an unclimbed formation, fix both pitches, an...
Chogolisa Attempt. An 18-member Italian expedition led by Augusto Zan- otti attemped unsuccessfully to climb Chogolisa. Details are missing.
Neuzeitliche Bergrettungstechnik. By Wastl Mariner. 183 pages; sketches. Notes on first aid by Dr. Med Hans Seidel. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1949. Price about $1.75.In a country where mountaineering accidents occur quite frequently one might ex...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. In June and July, 1996, Scott Backes, Ed Pope, Betty Roberts and I visited the Cordillera Real. We first traveled to the Jhanko Kota region, where we made a quick ascent of Cerro Wila Llojeta (5244m). I then soloe...
Kang Guru, avalanche tragedy to French expedition. The worst disaster ever to befall an expedition in the Nepalese Himalaya struck a seven-member French team trying to climb 6,981m Kang Guru. The only previous death on the mountain was that of a W...
BushidoThe complete north face of Kalanka in India’s Garhwal.Yusuke SatoLying in our wet sleeping bags, we have just finished brunch—20 grams of instant mashed potatoes apiece. Our tent site, squeezed under a rock, is so narrow that the three of u...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS—OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCE, EXHAUSTION, DEHYDRATIONUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Lisa Falls CouloirOn June 26, the Salt Lake County Sheriff's SAR team was notified that two members, from an original ...
ROCKFALL, POOR POSITION, POOR JUDGMENTAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Edith CavellOn August 20, two climbers (F 43, M 54) began ascending the North Face route on Mount Edith Cavell. They began at 1500 on a hot day, when rock fall is at its wo...
It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it immediately captured my imagination. The attractive phrase was part of it, but so was the mysteriousness of the mountai...
Sierra Club, 1947. The 43rd Annual High Trip, with an attendance o£ about 100, travelled for four weeks under the leadership of D. R. Brower (A.A.C.) in the central Sierra Nevada, from Banner, Ritter and the Minarets S. over Silver and Seldon Pass...
Kenya’s RocksWelcome to the remote crags of Kenya, where adventure rules.Alex FiksmanIt’s easy to fall in love with Kenya, a country as diverse in landscapes as in cultures. The contrasts come at every turn, from suited businessmen in chauffer-dri...
Michael’s Sword, Second Ascent and Devil’s Paw Attempt, Juneau Icefield. On June 28, Dave Dahl and I flew by helicopter to the upper reaches of Hades Highway. After a week of inclement weather we repeated the original route on Michael’s Sword (III...
Bhagirathi IV, Attempt. It was reported that a six-member Spanish team failed the unclimbed, west-facing rock wall rising to Pt. 6173m on the ridge connecting Bhagirathi II and III. (High Mountain Sports 174)
Mt. St. Elias, Homberger Route, Ascent. In April, my friend Bean Bowers and I climbed the Southeast Face (Homberger Route) on Mt. St. Elias in a three-day dash, with one day pinned down by storm at 13,500 feet. We were in Alaska for about a week f...