Mount Logan. There were a number of ascents of Mount Logan in 1990, most of them by the King Trench route. Successful groups follow: Alaskans Steven Parker, Chris Austin, Rachel LaCrosse, Dave Brailey and Scott Raynor from May 5 to June 1; Alaskan...

In early February, Zoroastro Eduardo and I established two new routes in Cochamó, on Pared de los Placeres: Erotica and Hay Que Disfrutar, each 500m, 8 pitches, 5.10b. We placed no bolts, and the descents are walk-offs.

Annapurna Attempt. Swiss Jean Troillet and Pierre-Alain Steiner attempted a new route on the northwest face of Annapurna to the left of the attempted French route of the pre-monsoon and on the face itself. They made an alpine-style attempt without...

Matawi Tepui (a.k.a. Kukenan Tepui), attempt and exploration. In the first week of February, climbers Federico Pizani, Luis Cisneros, Chris Gardner, and I, Maikey Lopera, and trekkers Dan Kopperud and Lindsey, as support crew, left from Caracas fo...

Prospectors Mountain, Northeast Face, Tetons. Eager to test the dimensions of a weekend trip to the Tetons from Moab, Utah, Bob Degles and I commenced the journey late one Friday and arrived at the White Grass Ranger Station early the following mo...

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Tom Kensler (22) and five companions reached 14,600 feet on June 21st, used the 22nd as a rest day, and Kensler moved to 16,400 feet on the 23rd. During this period Kensler had headaches, but with the aid of aspirin was able ...

Brammah Attempt, Kishtwar Himal. The aim of our expedition was to make the first ascent of Brammah (P 6416, 21,050 feet)* between the Kibar and Nanth Nallahs of the Kishtwar district of Jammu and Kashmir. The trip followed our two expeditions of 1...

HAPEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 9, 1989, Elfi Hallinger (42) a member of a German ski traverse expedition, developed high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) at 4300 meters on the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. After treatment at the Denali M...

Iowa Mountaineers. It was another very active year for the Iowa Mountaineers. An unusually large number of members in small groups climbed in ranges throughout the world. The club was able to establish rock-climbing classes for credit in the Unive...

General information. Riders on the Storm (1,200m, 5.12d A3), first climbed by Germans Nor- bert Bätz, Peter Dittrich, Bernd Arnold, Wolfgang Güllich, and Kurt Albert on the east face of Torre Central in 1991, received its fourth ascent, from a Bel...

McGinnis, Winter Ascent. On February 24, Ian McRae and I crossed the Delta River and skied 15 miles up McGinnis Creek into the Hayes Range to the foot of the northeast ridge of McGinnis. We took the northeast fork of the glacier to a cirque below ...

FALL ON SNOW AND ROCK, ROPED RUT NOT RELAYEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CollierOn August 18, 1991, a party of four were proceeding up from the Victoria-Collier col to the summit of Mount Collier as two ropes of two when they encountered a stee...

Spantik. Our expedition of the German Alpine Club’s Summit Club climbed the southeast ridge of Spantik (7027 meters, 23,055 feet), which is without much in the way of difficulties. The weather on the mountain was excellent. We used no high-altitud...

Torre Central, El Gordo, el Flaco y el'Abuelito. Rolando Larcher, Elio Orlandi, and I climbed a direct new route on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine, between Magico Este and Riders on the Storm. The 1,250m route has 7a+ free climbing (6...

General Overview. Out of approximately 140 expeditions visiting the Indian Himalaya (ca 105 of these coming from local mountaineers), around 60 (19 of which were foreign) were to routine peaks such as Kedar Dome, Jogin, and Stok Kangri, and are no...

Annapurna Autumn Attempts. There were two unsuccessful attempts on Annapurna in the post-monsoon season. A Korean expedition of twelve led by Chun Doo-Sung failed on the south face at 6700 meters on September 28. Four Spaniards led by Javier Berme...

Gamugal, Hindu Raj. An expedition led by Franco Alletto and composed of Sergio Kociancich, Luigi Lauro, Giorgio Mallucci, Leone Mimcio, Vincenzo Momti, Carlo Platter, Silvo Riz, Cesare Stefanoli and Ludovico Vaia made the first ascent of Gamugal (...

Cho Oyu from the South in the Pre-Monsoon Season. As in past years, the west side of Cho Oyu has been a very popular objective for many expeditions. A Belgian expedition was led by Bernard Mousny. On May 7, Pascal de Brouwer completed the 100th as...

Princeton Mountaineering Club. As in the past, Princeton’s location has forced the PMC to concentrate its attention on rock climbing. Within this limitation it maintained an active schedule of week-end trips to faces at the Shawangunks, in lower N...

FALL ON ROCK, COLD FINGERSOregon, French's DomeOn September 4, Joe Leineweber (29) was leading a 5.8 to 5.9 bolted route on French’s Dome. The weather was somewhat damp and there were wet places on the rock. Leineweber was reaching for a bolt when...