FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 23, Bryce Perkins fell while leading a climbing route in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Mr. Perkins’ fall of approximately 60 feet, resulted in injuries to his head, ...
Ranrapalca, Artesonraju, Caraz I, Palcaraju, 1980. Yves-Claude Sonnenwyl, Pierre Morand and I first made a new route on Ranrapalca by the north col between it and Ocshapalca. The route to the col was rather complicated. We bivouacked on June 21, 1...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, WEATHER, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 11, Chris Sproul (26) and David Sweedler (37) began the Notch Couloir (III, AI 3, 5.5) on the East Face of Longs Peak...
Mendenhall Towers Traverse. In August 1982 Dick Ellesworth and Bruce Lulla traversed all the Mendenhall Towers from west to east in a seven-day period. They started with the Rabbit Ears Spire and continued along the ridge. The seven nights in bivo...
Montana, Cabinet Range, Snowshoe Peak. On July 22, Gerald Challinor (20), and Jack Carabin (19) were descending Mt. Snowshoe after a successful ascent. Descending by a different route than they had ascended they came to a glacier that they had to ...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Pillar, Attempts. It was reported that three teams attempted the southwest pillar of Bhagirathi III (6454 m): a four-man Spanish expedition led by Juan Padilla, a six-member Canadian team led by Graham Rowbotham, and anot...
Joshua Tree: Sport Climbs. Randy Vogel. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. 72 pages. $10.00.Comment: Over 250 so-called “clip-and-go” routes with topos. But isn’t the title an oxymoron? Read the fine print. On page 2, Vogel tells us that...
Cho Oyu, First African-American Ascent of an 8000-meter Peak. An American team led by Eric Simonson of Ashford, WA, summited Cho Oyu in two groups from the Tibet side on May 13 and 14. Summiters included Jean Ellis, the first African-American to a...
Vinson Massif. Our expedition climbed the Vinson Massif on November 19. With this ascent, Canadian Pat Morrow became the second person (after Dick Bass) to reach the highest point of all seven continents. Also reaching the summit were Americans Mi...
Aleta del Tiburon, East Face. From January 15 to 25, in the Valle del Frances, Esteban Chacon (Chile) and Hubert van Ham (Dutch) established Game Over, Man! and Pa’la Casa (“Go Home”) on the east face of Aleta del Tiburon. The following notes are ...
P 11,172 and “Gash Peak.” Despite some rain every day, during four days in August Del Langbauer, David Goeddel, Jack Norris and I made four new routes from camp near Pyramid Lake, south of Mount Bonneville. Three routes (the first, second and thir...
Grand Teton, Northwest Chimney. This large chimney is perhaps the most prominent feature of the Grand Teton when viewed from the north-west, as for example from the lower part of Valhalla Canyon. Leigh Ortenburger first considered this chimney as ...
Langsisa Ri. Koreans Oh In-Hwan and Park Young-Seok and Nima Tamang composed this small expedition. They approached via the Langtang Khola and set up Base Camp at 4300 meters on April 12. They put Advance Base at 4700 meters on the 13th and Camp I...
Sara Urco. Nevado Sara Urco (4676 meters, 15,343 feet) had remained a mysterious mountain. Since Whymper’s ascent in 1880 it had been climbed only once, in 1955, by twelve members of the Club Nuevos Horizontes, who experienced poor visibility duri...
K2, snowboarding attempt. Spanish extreme skier and snowboarder Jordi Tosas failed to climb K2 on account of bad weather. He reached 6,300m on the Cesen route (a.k.a. the south southeast spur or the Basque Route) before jumping on the board to com...
Churen Himal. A Japanese team led by Hiroaki Yamada abandoned its attempt to climb Churen Himal (24,184 feet) by its previously unclimbed west ridge when four of its six members became sick. Earlier, on May 12, two members had made an unsuccessful...
Everest Attempt and Acclimatization Experiment. An original idea I had in 1987 was able to be carried out in 1989 on the north-northeast ridge of Mount Everest thanks to a system worked out by the ARPE under the direction of Drs. Richalet and Hery...
Malubiting Central. The expedition of the Iwate Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Junjiro Kasahara and Toshihiko Sato. They left Skardu and traveled through Yuno and Arandu to reach Base Camp on the Chogolungma Glacier at 14,000 feet ...
North Triple Peak, Northwest Face, Kichatna Mountains. On May 2 Peter Sennauser and I climbed North Triple Peak by an elegant ice swath on the northwest face. The climb gave us 25 hours of joy, agony and ice. There were 15 pitches of front-pointin...
Angel Wings, South Face. A new line up an old mountain: Angel Wings. That was the proposal Fred Beckey, Dougal McCarty, and Brian Leo had up their sleeve. With little or no persuasion I accompanied them. Things didn’t quite work out right that f...