Kangchenjau. The second ascent of this 22,603-foot peak was made in 1961 by the Indian S. Gyatso. It was first climbed in 1912 by Dr. A. M. Kellas but had repelled several other later attempts.
Huascarán and Huandoy. Our group of seven began climbing activities by the middle of May. A three-man party succeeded on May 26 in climbing the south peak of Huascarán. They were struck by the earthquake when they were descending after evacuating ...
Manaslu Attempt. The leader of a Japanese expedition, Seiji Shimizu, and Yasuo Kato failed in their attempt to climb the first-ascent route on Manaslu (26,760 feet), the northeast face. Their highest point reached on October 7 was about 26,250 fee...
Argentine Patagonia, Slovenian Activity. On Aguja Guillaumet, Damjan Kocar and Peter Subic climbed the left couloir (V+ 65°, 300m) on February 12. Kiemen Mali and Monika Kambic (female) climbed it on February 17. Mali and Kambic then added a new s...
The Minuteman, Liberty Bell Massif. On July 30, Bill Lingley and I ascended the Minuteman, which lies just south of Liberty Bell and east of Concord Tower. Beginning at the apron’s left-hand base, the route climbs for three leads to a group of eve...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Golden Canyon, Lady KillerOn March 11, while leading the first pitch of Lady Killer (II W13), A.M. fell after placing three screws on the first half and then running it out to the top. He fell to...
Garmush, Hindu Raj. Our expedition, which followed the west ridge route on Garmush climbed by the Austrians in 1975, was composed of Yoshiaki Shimomura, Yoshifumi Takahashi, Takafumi Miyazaka and me, as leader. We established Base Camp at 15,425 f...
Cho Oyu, 1979. Mischa Saleki from Iran illegally soloed Cho Oyu. After crossing the border into Tibet over the Nangpa La (18,750 feet), he made his Base Camp on September 20. His high camp was at 23,300 feet on the Austrian 1954 route on the west ...
Devil’s Peak, new routes. A popular spring climb, this peak lies at the headwaters of Coal Creek east of Silverton. In 1962 the North Face was climbed by Al Clairmont and Ray Pruiett via a large 100-foot chimney and steep moss-covered friable rock...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal (South) Face Reconnaissance. The Germans, Karl M. Herrligkoffer, Toni Kinshofer, Gerhard Haller and Klaus Scheck, re- connoitered the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat, finding an avalanche-free route to their projected site for Camp ...
Glacier Dome Attempt. A French group led by Michel Richard attempted the north face of Glacier Dome (Tarke Kang), the route of the Italians in 1981. They placed four camps. They were defeated by arriving too late; Base Camp was established on Octo...
Moose's Tooth. In July, Chris Bonington, Sandy Bill, Tom Frost and I made an attempt on the south face of the Moose’s Tooth. After two good bivouacs we reached the height of 1600 feet on the wall. We were then forced to descend when hit by a lengt...
Peak Pobeda, Zhuravleva Route. First place in the High Altitude Class of the Russian Climbing Competitions was taken by the team “Sever” from Severod (S. Penzov, leader, M. Ishytin, M. Strelkov) who climbed on Peak Pobeda (7439m) by the 1990 Zhura...
Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition climbed in the Nudo Allinccapac. The members were Anthony Bland, Hugh Donohoe, Clive Ogilvie, my wife Elspeth and I as leader. From June 15 to 22, we attempted the south side of Cornice. We approached from Macus...
Sermiligaq Fjord, East Greenland. On August 10 we arrived by fishing boat at Angmagssalik. Ice prevented our trying to reach our first objective, Sermilik Fjord. We set out for Depot Fjord out ice blocked the way there too. Consequently we headed ...
Steiermark, by Robert Löbl. Introductory text by Hieronymus Riede. Munich: Süddeutscher Verlag, 1961. 96 pages, with two maps and 80 full-page photos, captioned in three languages.This is an excellent picture-book, showing the scenery, life and pe...
Baihili Jot, Duphao Jot, Chamba-Lahul. Five British mountaineers, all past or present Outward Bound Instructors, joined five Indian climbers sponsored by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation to climb in the Chamba-Lahul Himalaya flanking the Myar ...
Makalu. Jean Troillet and I twice headed for the west face of Makalu in 1988. In the spring, we had to call it off since Troillet broke his leg during the approach. During the autumn, we both returned joining Hans Eitel’s expedition. Troillet and ...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierOn June 23, 1985, Barbara Miller (23) and Mark Valdez (26) were ascending the Emmons Glacier and had reached an elevation of 3800 meters when they heard a loud noise. Within seconds they were covered by a hard sla...
Nevado Shicra Shicra, and Other Peaks, Cordillera Huallanca. Steve Moore, Dave McClung, Rob Wilson and I hitched a ride on a mining truck to the village of Pachapaqui on the west slope of the Huallanca range. A reconnaissance turned up some intere...