AVALANCHE, PARTY SEPARATED—NO RESCUE ATTEMPT Alaska, Flattop MountainIn October of 1992, four Anchorage climbers were ascending a gully on Flattop Mountain just outside of Anchorage when they were struck by an avalanche. Two were buried, one poppe...
Annapurna South or Moditse. The Sendai Alpine Club expedition led by Yuji Sasaki in the post-monsoon season was prevented from reaching the top by bad weather and technical difficulties.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Other climbs in the Bugaboos. A party consisting of Ed Cooper, Art Gran, and Rome Sadowy ascended the north ice face of Anniversary Peak, probably for the first time. This 2000-foot crescent shaped ice slope rises from the Bugaboo Glacier tongue a...
Everest Attempt. An Indian expedition led by Pranesh Chakraborty unsuccessfully attempted to climb Mount Everest via the Great Couloir. On September 22, they got to 7500 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Mount McKinley, New Start on the American Direct Route, South Face. A Japanese expedition led by Kichitaka Kimura and composed of Ms. Tamae Watanabe, Yuji Tsuneto, Mitsuo Yamaura and Yushichi Senda made a new direct start on the direct route of th...
Broad Peak North (7,750m), west face and south ridge, then traverse over Broad Peak Central (8,011m) to Broad Peak Main (8,051m). On July 9 Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza reached the summit of Broad Peak North after climbing a...
Mushroom Route, Papoose Rock. The right half of Papoose’s front face, just above the Squamish-Woodfibre Ferry Dock, had not yielded a route until this two-pitch climb was done by Dave Beckstead and me in October. The climb scales a fairly difficul...
EDWARD OLIVER WHEELER 1890–1962Brigadier Sir Oliver Wheeler who died in March, 1962 was the son of our late member Arthur O. Wheeler and the father of our member John O. Wheeler. Arthur O. Wheeler joined the American Alpine Club in 1903 and died i...
On the right side of the east face lies a thin, straight couloir, almost a chimney, that provides an unbroken line of very steep water ice from the ’schrund to within 80 feet of the summit. This hose makes a fine alpine ice route that goes to a di...
AAC, Alaska Section. The Alaska Section’s members were active not only in Alaska, but around the world in the past year. Members traveled to Antarctica, the Himalaya, South America, the Continental United States, and Europe. Within Alaska, members...
Pucaranra, West Ridge. A strong Italian expedition climbed a difficult new route, the west ridge of Pucaranra (20,168 feet). We were Renato Binaghi, Elio Boreatti, Dr. Emma Cucchi, Eugenio Porro, Antonio and Gianni Rusconi, Andrea Sioli, Gianbatti...
University of Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club has been one of the most active in the midwest since 1953, when we separated from the Chicago Mountaineering Club. Our club has been instrumental in the development of Devils Lake, Wisconsin, int...
Mukar Bey. Students and instructors of the Himalayan Institute of Mountaineering in Manali have reported climbing a number of high peaks: Mukar Bey (19,910 feet) on October 6 and 13, CB 10 (Tara Pahar, 20,430 feet), CB 50 (20,000 feet) and M5 (20,...
NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering. Phil Powers. Stackpole Books, Mechanicsburg, PA. 241 pages, many drawings, glossary and index.NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) has taught wild country camping, mountaineering and skiing for thirty years fol...
Grand Teton, Northeast Couloir Gully. In mid-July Charlie Fowler and I climbed a gully filled with water-ice which rises from the northeast couloir. The gully begins about 1000 feet above the bergschrund of the couloir. After six pitches it ends a...
Washington, Mt. Rainier (2)—On August 7, at 11:30 a.m., a member of a guided party, Ronald Swearinger (21) was struck by a falling rock while negotiating the chutes on the Gibralter route on the return trip from the summit. He received bruises and...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED AND UNPROTECTED Pennsylvania, Delaware Water Gap, Mt. MinsiOn January 10, Hugh Dougher (25) attempted to climb an ice flow on the Mt. Minsi cliffs. Near the top of the flow the thin ice disintegrated, causing Dougher ...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, NotchtopOn August 21, Wes Oren (age unknown) had completed an ascent of the Spiral Route (III, 5.4) on Notchtop with two companions. At 2...
Cho Oyu, shooting of Tibetan refugees. When shots rang out near Cho Oyu's crowded advance base camp on September 30, climbers ventured out to see what was going on. A professional photographer from Romania, Sergiu Matei, took his camera and was in...
Trango Nameless Tower, Slovene Route Attempt. Celia Bull, Donna Claridge, Kate Phillips, and “Grandma” Geraldine Westrupp attempted to make an all-women ascent of the Nameless Tower. We arrived at the Dunge Glacier Base Camp (4200 meters) on July ...