FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn April 26, Brandon Keller (22) fell while leading “Skyscraper,” a one pitch climb, in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Keller suffered injuries to his head, neck, and back as ...

Huamashraju, Northwest Ridge and Alpamayo. Pete Billington, Steve Callen, Dave Wilson and I climbed Huamashraju by its northwest ridge on May 8. The ridge offered steep, good climbing to the summit. Short snowstorms delayed us in the afternoon and...

California, Yosemite, Mt. Conness—On June 12, Donald Q. Goodrich (27), Krehe Ritter, Raphael Tejado-Flores (17), and Denis Rutovitz, in two ropes of two men, started a climb of the southwest face of Mt. Conness at 8:00 a.m. Climbing continued all ...

The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported. The Belly of the Buddha (V 5.10 A2+, 12 Pitches), first climbed in May, 1998, by Jersey Dave Littman and I, climbs the prominent red wall between the Streaked Wall and The Bi...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, McHenry’s PeakTom Hillmer (19) and brother Tim Hillmer had climbed the Stone Man Pass route for the summit of McHenry’s Peak on August 21. As they were traversing a snowfield, Tom slipped on the snow and...

HANDHOLD CAME OFF—FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 19, prior to 0900, Steve Mestdagh (39) was leading the North Chimney (II, 5.6) on the East Face of Longs Peak when he dislodged a large...

Fairweather, 1982. At dawn of July 27, 1982 Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder and I attained the summit of Fairweather (4663 meters, 15,300 feet). It was a perfect day with spectacular views to St. Elias and Logan to the north, Glacier Bay to the southe...

Montana, Glacier National Park, Mt. Henkel. On June 20, James E. Moylan (17) and Douglas L. Krueger (18) climbed Mt. Henkel (8710 ft.). They ate their lunch on the summit and started back down at 12:20 p.m. taking a different route that Moylan had...

Shivling, East Pillar, Second Ascent. Americans Mark Richey and John Bouchard made a rapid second ascent of this often-tried route in June. A full account of their climb appears earlier in this journal.

DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessful ClimbersWest Buttress104311153West Buttress (Guided)25200116Muldrow Glacier6159Muldrow Glacier (Guided)22619West Rib14355West Rib (Guided)2131...

Chiwawa Mountain, Intravenous. Inspired by John Scurlock’s photos of the northwest face, Dave Burdick and I snowmobiled and skied almost 30 miles up the Chiwawa River valley on March 5, 2005, to a bivy below the south side of Chiwawa Mountain. On ...

AVALANCHE, FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CirrusA solo climber (27) was ascending the Polar Circus ice climb on Mount Cirrus on February 5, 1982. He had successfully climbed the first two falls and was crossing a small ...

Three Fingers, North Peak, Northeast Face. On February 3, 2007, John Frieh and I climbed a new route (IV WI4+ M3) on the northeast face of Three Fingers. We approached up the Squire Creek valley to the basin under the east face in early morning. A...

Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs. Don Reid. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1994. 413 pages, black-and-white photos, maps and topos. $25.00.Comment: The second installment in the series is just as thick as the entire 1987 edition, which had bot...

Shishapangma, Attempt and Tragedy. An expedition from the Ukraine led by Ivan Valenya planned to make ascents of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma but owing to organization difficulties got stuck in Kathmandu for 21 days and started climbing Shishapangma b...

Paine Grande, East Face, 1984. South Africans John and Hilton Davies and Chris Lomax climbed the east face of Paine Grande, which they found to be very avalanche prone. They reached the summit on December 9, 1984 after a final push of 4½ days in v...

Chilean Patagonia, Overview. The weather in Chilean Patagonia was terrible from November to February. March was very good from the first to the 16th. Climbing activity in Paine National Park was down in general—perhaps 50% less than in the last th...

Kumbhakarna, North Face. Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Ger Friele, Edmond Öfner, Ferry van Wilgenburg, Rudolf de Koning, Dr. Ingo Doomenbal and me as leader. With 55 porters we set out from Hille on September 5. Base Camp was at ...

Milne Land, probable first ascents. Between May 8-16 David Cook and Simon Turner, guided by me, climbed seven peaks on Milne Land. We were taken to the island from Constable Point by Skidoo, across the sea ice of Scoresby Sund, but had to be helic...

FALL ON ROCK-DISLODGED ROCK, WEATHERColorado, Snowmass MountainThey’d waited a year to take another stab at summiting Snowmass Mountain after weather forced them to turn back last summer. On Saturday, two climbing buddies finally reached their goa...