Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Descending Unroped, Off Route, British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir Donald

FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPED, OFF ROUTEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldAt 0500 on August 24,1985, a party of two (31 and 27) set out from the Illecillewaet Campground (1220 meters) to attempt a light, rapid ascent of Mt. S...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Pico Huamalla, Cordillera Yauyos

Pico Huamlla, Cordillera Yauyos. With the American Bill Douglas, I visited the Cordillera Yauyos, taking the Huancayo-Cañete road. At Santo Tomas we drove through a narrow limestone canyon with 1000-foot vertical or overhanging walls, often festoo...


In Memoriam AAJ
Alison Jane Hargreaves, 1962-1995

ALISON JANE HARGREAVES 1962- 1995Alison Jane Hargreaves had shot to prominence as one of the world’s greatest mountaineers in just a few years, but hers was no casual encounter. Born in Derbyshire in 1962, she acquired a deep and abiding love of t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite—Inadequate Clothing (No Overboots) and Inadequate Care of Extremities, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

FROSTBITE-INADEQUATE CLOTHING (NO OVERBOOTS) AND INADEQUATE CARE OF EXTREMITIESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJerry Hopfe flew onto Denali on May 2 as a part of the three-member “Steves” team. The group made steady progress arriving at 14,20...


Book Reviews AAJ
Geschichte und Sozialordnung der Sherpa (History and Social Structure of the Sherpa)

Geschichte und Sozialordnung der Sherpa, by Michael Oppitz. Innsbruck-Munich, Universitätsverlag Wagner Ges. m.b.H., 1968. 170 pages, 21 photographs (one full page colored), 11 schedules and charts, 6 genealogies, 2 maps.History and Social Structu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Traverse of Juneau Icefield, Possible First Ascents, and Ski Descents Alaska, Boundary Ranges

In April Alex Appelby, Ben Bizwell, Tom Francis, and I arrived in Haines to ski-traverse the Juneau Icefield, while making as many ascents and first descents as possible. Although all British, we were a diverse group, living in different parts of ...

| Published 2011 | Author Oli Lyon


Notes AAJ
Activities of Members

Members are urged to send to the Secretary a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.A number of our members attended the 1929 Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada at Rogers Pass, B. C., from w...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park

California, Yosemite National Park. On 18 May Spencer Conley (34), was leading a pitch on the East route of Monday Morning Slab. He states that he was out 100 feet on the rope with two pitons placed for protection. The last pin was a lost arrow ho...


Book Reviews AAJ
When the Steel Went Through

When the Steel Went Through, by P. Turner Bone. 8vo., 180 pp., 21 photographic illustrations. Toronto, 1947: The Macmillan Co., Price, $3.00.The author, who died while his book was in press, was one of the few survivors of those who did the origin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Illampu Group, Cordillera Real

Illampu Group, Cordillera Real. The members of the Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition were Bruce W. Hooker, Nevelle P. Jordison, Paul J. McCartney, Stephen Ridgill, David P. Steel, Roger Scull, Richard W. Wroot, and I. Sad to say, Steel a...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Big Book of Mountaineering

The Big Book of Mountaineering, edited by Bruno Moravetz. Translated by Diana Stone Peters and Frederick G. Peters. Woodbury, N.Y.: Barron’s, 1981. 288 pages, 112 pages of full-color illustrations. Price $49.95.Measuring fourteen by eleven inches ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mazamas

The Mazamas. The year 1969 was the year that The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, took a nostalgic backward look to July 19, 1894, when two large parties climbed Mount Hood by the north-side Cooper Spur route and by the south side. Meeting at the summ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna III Attempt

Annapurna III Attempt. A seven-man British expedition led by Mal Duff had great difficulties with the terrain on the approach up the Seti Khola. Their cook died of high-altitude pulmonary edema on September 12 before they reached Base Camp. After ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Sur, Yurbera, and Nevado Copa, Mostro Africano to Southwest Ridge

Huascarán Sur, Turbera, and Nevado Copa, Mostro Africano to southwest ridge. Upon returning to Huaraz in June, after climbing Siulá Chico, Oriol Baró and I decided to attempt something more. Having spent six days on our previous route, we wanted s...

| Keywords
| Published 2007 | Author Jordi Corominas


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern California Section

A.A.C., Southern California Section. The Section held two official meetings during the year. Our main program has been the establishment of the Arkel Erb Memorial Library. Club members helped prepare and move the books to the Los Angeles County Li...


Book Reviews AAJ
An Ice Climber's Guide to Northern New England

An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England. Rick Wilcox. International Mountain Equipment, Inc., North Conway, New Hampshire, 1982. 225 pages, 35 black and white photographs, 33 diagrams and photodiagrams, 4 maps. $15.00.New ice routes have be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Jbel Tadline, West Face, Fugitivos del Paraiso Africa, Morocco, Taghia

Arnaud and I rarely have the opportunity to climb together. Eight hundred kilometers separate us; Arnaud in his Briançonnais, me in my Pyrenees. We cross paths at his place during the winter, where we make time for an explosive ice cocktail. He al...

| Published N/A | Author Christian Ravier


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kashmir and Jammu, P 6725, Pangong Rang, Ladakh, 1987

P 6725, Pangong Range, Ladakh, 1987. A 20-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Itam Singh put three members on top of P 6725 (22,064 feet) in early September, 1987. This is said to be the highest peak in the range.Himalayan Club Newsl...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-20052006Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arct...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine National Park, Cerro Almirante Nieto, Various Attempts, Various Other Ascents

Cerro Almirante Nieto, various attempts; various other ascents. Grega Lacen and I, Slovenes, came to the park on December 1. The next day’s weather was great, so we went up to try the beautiful, unclimbed northwest pillar of Almirante. It was hard...