Notes ANAM
The Sierra Club

The Sierra Club has instituted a call list similar to that of the Mountaineers, Inc., for use in case of mountain accidents. This insures getting a rescue party into the field with a minimum of delay. All alpine activities of the Sierra Club are a...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-671959-671968U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock 63741519Snow 37737298River 3000Unknown 1200Ascent or DescentAscent 49343466Descent 465333311Unknown 60410Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock36224245Failur...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Avalanche, Inadequate Equipment, Weather, Idaho, Mount Borah

FALL ON SNOW, LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, AVALANCHE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER Idaho, Mount BorahOn June 13, 1987, David Probst (38), who was a member of the Idaho Mountain Search and Rescue Unit for several years, was descending Mount...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington State: (2) Cascades, Mt. Rainier National Park

Washington State: (2) Cascades, Mt. Rainer National Park. On 5 August 1951 Jo Ann Ramey, 17, of Seattle, and three teen-age companions climbed Naches Peak, an easy mountain rising about a 1000 feet above the road to Tipsoo Lake. On the descent, ag...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh (Punjab), Indrasan, Kulu

Indrasan, Kulu. Indrasan (20,410 feet) was climbed by a new route, the west ridge, by an expedition led by Tony Johnson on June 9 and again on June 13. Details are lacking.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Asien Region, Cordon Colmillo, Cerro Colmillo (1,896m), Northeast Ridge

Cordon Colmillo, Cerro Colmillo (1,896m), northeast ridge. In February and March 2012 a NOLS semester group traveled north 125km from Laguna Tranquilo to Rio Murta. On the way we explored a number of valleys and passes, as well as crossing the gla...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, 1989-1990

Paine Towers, 1989-1990. Japanese climbers Michihiro Kadoya and Yoshio Nabeta set up Base Camp on the western side of the Paine Towers on November 21, 1989. On the 26th, they set out on the Italian (Bich) route on the Torre Norte. They reached the...


In Memoriam AAJ
William P. House, 1913-1997

WILLIAM P. HOUSE1913 - 1997Bill House grew up in Pittsburgh, attended Choate, and went on to Yale, where he became an outstanding leader of the Yale Mountaineering Club. He made some difficult local ascents and, in 1932, with Alan Willcox, made th...


Feature Article AAJ
The Northern Selkirks

The Northern SelkirksArnold WexlerNORTH of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, within the big bend of the Columbia River, are the rarely visited northern Selkirks. A casual glance from the highway that parallels the river, or from the railroad in the B...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Gasherbrum IV, Northwest Ridge Attempt. We left Dasso with eleven American members, a liaison officer, sirdar and 132 porters on May 8 and arrived at Base Camp at 15,500 feet on the West Gasherbrum Glacier on May 19. Actual climbing began on May 2...


Feature Article AAJ
An Attempt on Everest's West Ridge from Tibet

An Attempt on Everest’s West Ridge from TibetGalen A. RowellIN MARCH 1983 I traveled through Tibet to Mount Everest with sixteen other members of the American Everest West Expedition. Bob Craig was our overall leader, and I was the climbing leader...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Malaysian Borneo, Sabah, Mt. Kinabalu, Low's Gully, East Face, Attempt

Mt. Kinabalu, Low ’s Gully, East Face, Attempt. Climbers Steve Long, Dave Turnbull, Paul Platt and Chris Parkin, with Paul “Chip” Rafferty, Charles Stead and Jon Rees in support, attempted the first big wall style climb in Malaysia from March 14-2...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Slack Rope, Arkansas, Horseshoe Canyon Ranch

FALL ON ROCK, SLACK ROPEArkansas, Horseshoe Canyon RanchMy wife Kylie and I (age unknown) were climbing at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch near Jasper on December 22.1 was going to lead Frankenberry (5.9+), a six-bolt route approximately 60 feet in length....


In Memoriam AAJ
Fred Donald Ayres, 1906–1970

FRED DONALD AYRES 1906–1970The mountains meant a very great deal to Fred D. Ayres, who was Professor of Physical Chemistry at Reed College when he died last summer at his home in Portland, Oregon. His wife Angela and son Fred continue to reside in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Toothrock, East Buttress United States, Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs (above Lee's Ferry)

On December 29-January 1, Paul Gagner and I finished a 1,500-foot east buttress route (11 pitches, 5.10 A2) started by Glenn Rink et al and never completed. Noebels, Mish and George Bain went up to try the route, but there were “too many people,” ...

| Published 1996


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan,Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh, Pumari Chhish South (7350 m) Attempt on South Face

Pumari Chhish South (7,350m), attempt on south face. Two French climbers were among the first to visit the range last year, making a couple of very spirited attempts to climb the south face of the virgin Pumari Chhish South (7,350m). Yannick Grazi...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Treasury of Mountaineering Stories

A Treasury of Mountaineering Stories, edited by Daniel Talbot.Pp. xii, 337. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1954. Price, $5.00.As the literature of mountaineering becomes richer with the ever broadening interest and participation in climbing, it is...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Pik Prezhevalskogo (6,240m), North Face Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tengri Tag

Boris Dedeshko and I reached the North Inylchek Glacier on foot from Bayancol with all our gear. Our goal was the north face of Pik Prezhevalskogo, which lies up a side branch of the main glacier. The peak was climbed twice in 1974 but never since...

| Published 2011 | Author Denis Urubko


Feature Article AAJ
On and Around Anyemaqen

On and Around Anyemaqen Galen A. RowellBack IN THE DAYS when mountaineering was a solitary pursuit, even great expeditions functioned in relative isolation. Base Camps, however populous, were seldom visited by outsiders. Today’s trend is to aim bo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak Foresummit

Broad Peak Foresummit. A four-man Spanish expedition made an ascent to the foresummit of Broad Peak on July 1 after a three-day sustained ascent from Base Camp. They had previously been acclimatizing by preparing Camps I and II. The final ascent w...