Shivling, West Ridge, Various Ascents. It was reported that two teams were successful on Shivling’s west ridge: a four-man German team led by Walter Haderadorfer, on August 22 and 23, in two different groups; and a nine-member Korean team led by M...
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessful ClimbersWest Buttress104311153West Buttress (Guided)25200116Muldrow Glacier6159Muldrow Glacier (Guided)22619West Rib14355West Rib (Guided)2131...
Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, first winter ascent. Four bluebird days and stellar conditions in February 2005 allowed Colin Haley (20) and me (42) to finally climb Mt. Stuart’s Complete North Ridge in winter. It was my 7th attempt in 17 years ...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Marmot BasinOn February 22, 1982, at about 12:15 p.m., five downhill skiers traversed to the Sherpa Run just outside the boundary of the Marmot Basin ski area, and just above timberline. As they arrived, they tri...
Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route on the northwest face of Dragontail Peak on September 6. Starting to the west of the Boving Route, on the opposite end of the br...
Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature, Third Edition. Edited by Yoshimi Yakushi. Hakusuigha Publishing Co., Ltd., Tokyo, 1994. 1320 pages. ¥55,000 (about $550.00).Comment: The long-awaited third edition of Yakushi’s catalogue has 7100 entries in t...
Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, Ascents and Tragedy. In the autumn, V. Bachkirov (leader), B. Sedoussov, N. Zakharov, E. Vinogradski, V. Pershin, G. Tortladze, B. Mednik, A. Sedov, A. Klimin, A. Paskhin, and A. Kovalchuk attempted Cho Oyu’s normal route...
Southern Patagonian Icecap, North-South Traverse. Italian Giuliano Giongo made a solo traverse of the Southern Patagonian Icecap (Hielo Continental) from north to south, a distance of some 400 kilometers. He started on July 21 at Río Pascua and wo...
Escudo, Southwest Face, First Winter Ascent. On August 7-8, Italians Marco Balla Longa, Marco Birolin, and Mario Cumis climbed the Southwest Face of Escudo in the Valle del Silencio. It was the first winter ascent of this route.Hernan Jofre, Ameri...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) North Face. Erik Decamp, François Marsigny, Spaniard Juan Tomás and I arrived at Base Camp on September 23. Since Eric was coming from Mustagh Ata and I from Everest, we two were well acclimatized. We first had planned to climb...
During the summer of 2005 I led an exploratory trekking trip to the Arabetoppe region of southeast Milne Land. From July 22 to August 5,2006 I was back, leading another trekking group to the western end of this large island, deep inside Scoresby S...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CalypsoOn September 5, a climber (44) who was the third man on the rope started up the first pitch on Calypso when he fell, causing him to pendulum and thus hi...
Middle Palisade, “Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route.” On July 10, Steve Porcella and I climbed a new route on the west side of Middle Palisade. In the center of the face is a steep buttress, easily recognized by the two deep gullies on either side. W...
TABLE II1951-661967GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta16719111British Columbia181035111Yukon Territory111102Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — North78241018...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, ROCK BROKE OFF, NO HARD HATColorado, Garden of the Gods, Three GracesIn mid-August, a young male local climber died as a result of a fall from this formation. In talking with the search and rescue folks, I lear...
P C.5030, Near Torrini, Quimsa Cruz, 1990. From Viloco, Jim Petroske and I followed the road to Araca for 10 kilometers and switched to a mule path where the road begins to descend to Araca. We continued along the mule path up a side valley to an ...
Alaska Mt. McKinley. Upon reaching the 17,200 foot camp on the West Buttress route at 3:30 p.m. on 26 June John Waterman (16) did not feel well. John got into his sleeping bag in the ice cave at this camp and remained there for the rest of the aft...
Gasherbrum I, Northwest Face Solo. G. Di Federico climbed a new route on the northwest face of Gasherbrum I to the right of the icefall. He set out from 5900 meters early on July 13 and climbed along a ridge crest to 6300 meters. The next day he c...
Southern Selkirks. The fourth Harvard Mountaineering Club Climbing Camp was held last summer during the latter part of August in the Southern Selkirks. Nineteen members participated, and some 19 days were spent in the area. For climbing and traini...
Rolling Thunder, Northeast Ridge. This ridge, while spectacular when viewed from certain directions, proved to be remarkably easy when first climbed on August 3 by David Lowe and me. The only problem of the climb was locating the ledge which provi...