Gaurishankar, South Summit. Gaurishankar is a twin-peaked mountain. Its northern summit is 23,440 feet high and its southern one 23,000 feet. Before 1964 six expeditions tried unsuccessfully to climb the mountain. The Buddhist Sherpas living south...
Spokane Mountaineers. Twenty-five graduates of the 1968 climbing school and 10 instructors camped in Whitewater Basin for a Selkirk graduation outing. On May 12 climbing chairman Frank Tavares led a party of 21 to the 9514-foot summit of Mount Bre...
In alpine climbing you do your best to anticipate the potential crux of a trip. You physically and mentally prepare for bad weather, loose rock, huge days, anything you can imagine. This time getting on the airplane and deciding to go was the hard...
On Ice. Directed by Scott and Eden Ayer. Cliffhanger Productions, 1995. Video, 62 minutes. $29.95.With all the renewed interest in waterfall climbing and mixed rock and ice climbing, it only comes as a surprise that instructional and entertaining ...
Alberta, Rockies, Tower of Babel. On August 20, Brian Greenwood (32) and Charles Locke (21) were on the third day of a new face route on the Tower of Babel above Maligne Lake in the Rockies. They were leading alternately and were about 250 feet be...
Mitre Peak, North Side. Milford Sound, in southwest New Zealand, lies in a spectacular glacial valley, reminiscent of Yosemite. Reminiscent, that is, if one considers only the sweep of its walls; any further resemblance is literally drowned by the...
Peak Southeast of Koh-i-Marchech. While leading a trekking party for the Sierra Club this summer, I climbed with Thomas Myers of New York a peak whose summit contained no evidence of prior ascent. Some six miles southeast of Koh-i-Marchech, it is ...
Mt. Blackhorn, Northwest Couloir. On September 27 I made what I believe was the first ascent of Blackhorn Mountain’s Northwest Couloir. Mike King flew Don Serl, Dan Aylward, and me from Bluff Lake to the base of the couloir on the evening before, ...
RAPPEL FAILURE–ANCHOR CAME APART, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn September 15 about 1930, Julien Roques (20) fell 350 feet from the third pitch of the Open Book in Garnet Canyon. He sustained severe injuri...
Fisher Towers, Cottontail Tower, Trick of the Tail. From September 9 to 12, Jeremy Aslaksen and I climbed a new route on the north face of Cottontail Tower in the Fisher Towers: Trick of the Tail, V 5.10+ A3. Jeremy had spent a weekend scoping the...
San Lorenzo, East Face. On January 15 Erwin Müller, Russell Dodding, Hans-Peter Bakker and I reached the summit of San Lorenzo (3706 meters, 12,159 meters), the first party ever to climb the mountain from the Argentine side. We had made an unsucce...
Pumasillo - 1956DAVID MICHAELThe Cordillera Vilcabamba is situated north-northwest of Cusco, bounded on the north by the Urubamba and Vilcabamba rivers, and on the south by the Rio Apurimac. It extends east- west for 20 miles, the major terminal m...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITIONOregon, Mount Hood, Standard RouteOn May 30 at 8:30 a.m., there were climbers both ascending and descending the mountain along the standard route. A team of four climbe...
Pt. 5520m, Dedo De Galupour and Bubulimotin, Ascents. It was reported that Spaniards David Larrión and Ager Madariaga made perhaps the first ascent of the east ridge of Pt. 5520m in early August. The peak lies on the watershed between the Sumaiyer...
United States: Climbs in the TetonsNorth Face of Cloudveil Dome. Cloudveil Dome (12,026 ft.) lies on the ridge that connects Nez Perce and the S. Teton. Being situated on a ridge, it can be approached very easily from the E. and W. extremes. To th...
Glacier MechanicsRollin T. ChamberlinIT is interesting to note how many of the pioneers of mountaineer- ing in the Alps were men of notable achievement in other lines of endeavor. For centuries mountains and glaciers had been feared and avoided, b...
South Liverpool Land, Kronen northeast pillar (not to summit); Peak 800, south face to southeast ridge, first ascent. Climbing solo my goal was to make first ascents of mixed faces, ridges, and buttresses in the southern part of Liverpool Land, a ...
FALL ON ICE—ICE FOOTHOLD CAME OFF, ICE TOOLS CAME OUT, WEATHER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hidden FallsOn January 10, Steven Crane (57) was leading Main Falls Center I WI 4 (one pitch, 80 feet) when he fell about 30 feet. He had placed...
Rock Climbing, by Peter Livesey. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1979. 116 pages.After several readings by non-climbers, it was determined that Rock Climbing does indeed answer many of the questions asked by those unfamiliar with the sport. It was inte...
Cuernos del Diablo, north face; Gigante Grande, Via Loco. On May 26 Brent Loken, Bruce Hendricks, Brent’s father, and I drove in Brent’s jeep from La Paz to the Quimsa Cruz. We stopped for the night in the tawdry mining town of Viloco, where we we...