Mazama Centennial, 1994. (Editor’s Note: Because the Mazamas are celebrating their Centennial, we are placing this report here. The regular annual report also appears below.)At four P.M., July 19, 1994, exactly one century will have elapsed since ...
Fitz Roy. On February 21 Chilean Gino Cassasa and Austrian Walter Bertsch reached the summit of Fitz Roy. Following the American route with a variant in the upper part, they overcame the difficulties on February 20 and bivouacked on the easy summi...
To the Ends of the Earth: Adventures of an Expedition Photographer. Gordon Wiltsie. NewYork: W.W. Norton, 2006. Hardback. 224 pages. $35.00.Gordon Wiltsie’s To the Ends of the Earth is a merry carnival of destinations, a shiny ride that spins read...
Muztagh Ata and Unnamed Peak Ascents. The summer of 1994 found me in Kashgar, Xinjiang, on the way to West Tibet. My companion, Paula Quenomoen, and I decided to do a side trip into the Kunlun Mountains before heading to Mount Kailash. We establis...
Santa Rosa, Cordillera Raura. On August 19 Stuart Turner, Chuck Satterfield and I stood on the summit of Santa Rosa (18,758 feet) after a long climb via the hitherto unapproached east side and north ridge, having made what was probably the fourth ...
Illimani, Cordillera Real. Among several successful groups which reached the 21,201-foot summit of Illimani in 1970 were Italians from a large group sent out by the Uget section of the Club Alpino Italiano. From Camp III at 19,000 feet the guide L...
Fitz Roy and Aguja Guillaumet. On January 4 Chris Blatter, Jim Jennings and I arrived at the entrance of the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, hoping to repeat the French route on Fitz Roy, climbed by Terray and Magnone in 1953. As far as we know,...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE OF ICE SCREW, EXCEEDING ABILITIESVermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn February 9, 1981, Larry Dieringer (26) was climbing with a group from the StoweSchool. The accident occurred around 4:00 p.m. Dieringer climbed 15 feet on mixed vert...
Mt. Deborah and Mt. Hunter: First AscentsFRED BECKEYDuring our expedition this spring to the northwest face of Mt. McKinley, the subject of unclimbed major Alaskan peaks often arose, and since it seemed likely that Henry Meybohm and I would have t...
Nun. The Himalayan Association of Japan Expedition was composed of Masaki Susuki, Tomihiko Iimura, Hideki Azuma, Masayuki Teramoto, Tsutomu Ogawa, Tadao Ando, Taichiro Takahashi, Hiroshi Yashima and me as leader. We arrived at Tongol, the last vil...
RODNEY L. GLISAN1869-1934To old friends of Rodney L. Glisan, the news of his death brought inexpressible sadness. No longer a youth, his presence always suggested youth and optimism. On the trail or at the campfire he was always the cheery, tirele...
Centennial Range Peaks Climbed by Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition. The climb of Mount Vancouver is covered in a separate article in this Journal. In the Centennial Range all the peak names are official, having been approved by the Permanent Com...
Three crowded Fourth of July flights brought Peter Brown, John Hauck, Dick Jablonowski, Dan Osborne, and me to the 8000-foot plateau of the east branch of the Yentna Glacier. Two days later we occupied a high camp nestled under a small ice cliff a...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for climbers. Attempts on Denali alone totaled a whopping 1,340 climbers, breaking the former record of 1,305.The year began with the tra...
Chief’s Head, Northeast Face. Jeff Lowe and I made a second route on the northeast face of Chief’s Head, “Risky Business.” (IV, 5.11 + ). It climbs just right of the center of the face for ten pitches. Four were of 5.10 to 5.11 range and the crux ...
HIGH WINDS AND POSSIBLE AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Harper GlacierOn the evening of July 3, a 16-member National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) expedition was hit by high wind or possibly debris from an avalanche at approximately 17,200 fee...
Menthosa. Menthosa (21,140 feet) in Chamba was scaled for the first time on October 13 by a British Servicemen team led by Captain S. Bemrose. The summit pair was Royal Marine Lieutenant Stewart Rae and REME Captain Rory Cape.Soli S. Mehta and Jag...
University of Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The new year arrived with the sound of scraping skis during the annual Hoofer trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming. Lack of snow hampered the first week’s activities, while storms during the second week p...
Hyperborea, West Face of Asgard’s North TowerNoel Craine, Alpine Climbing GroupOUR EXPEDITION WAS ORIGINALLY composed of Britons Simon Yates, Keith Jones, Paul Pritchard and me and American Steve Quinlan. We were on Baffin Island in Arctic Canada....
Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to southwest ridge. In mid-April, Jared Vilhauer, Zach Shlosar, and I left our base camp and skied to our gear cache on the south fork of the Buckskin Glacier. We left our skis and headed for an untouched 3,200'...