Ak-Shirak, seven first ascents, first south-to-north crossing. By daylight the river flood plain of moraine debris stretched away to where distant peaks shone whitely. The skis and sledges lay forlorn at the roadside, where we had been unceremonio...
Alpinisme Sovietque, by A. Tcherepov. Translated from the Russian into French by Paul Sulfourt. Paris: Amiot-Dumont, 1957.This book’s twofold uniqueness atones for its colorless style. Not only does it illustrate Soviet mountaineering philosophy, ...
Mount Rainier National Park (2)—On Wednesday, August 11, 1954, a group of climbers from the Mountaineers climbed Meany Crest, which is within sight of Summerland and approximately two hours away. The crest was reached at 12:30 p.m. where they enjo...
Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest. Ed Webster. Eldorado Springs, Colorado: Mountain Imagery, 2000. 580 pages, color and black & white photos. $29.95.Figuratively, the dichotomous title of Ed Webster’s book tells a lot about what’s...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnOn September 27, Taylor Sincich (23) and I, Tommy Bairstow (24), set out to climb Mid-East Crisis on the east face of Washington Column. I had fixed four pitches by m...
Non C’é Due Senza TreThe great line on Nalumasortoq goes free, Greenland.Micah DashSitting in the Camp 4 parking lot, I felt my anxiety building to a crescendo. I was freaking out, which often happens. My partner was injured, our project was over,...
Mamostong Kangri, Third Ascent. Indian Army Engineers led by me climbed Mamostong Kangri (“Thousand Devils Peak”) by the same route as the Indo-Japanese expedition of 1984. A team of twenty climbers was supported by nine others. We made a two-day ...
Nya Kangri, south ridge, attempt. In June and July the Himalayan Club sponsored Vineeta Muni, Rajesh Gadgil, Rajan Rikame, and me in an attempt on the beautiful unclimbed snow and ice pyramid Nya Kangri (6,480 m), at the entrance to the Arganglas ...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD British Columbia, Northern Selkirk Mountains, Sorcerer PeakOn July 27, 1994, D. Jones (45) and P. Kendrick (40) were climbing on the north flanks of Sorcerer Peak (3166 meters) near the northern bou...
Maoist encounters spring season commentary. Insecurity for people throughout Nepal due to an armed rebellion by Maoists, who have become especially active in the more remote areas of the country, was encountered separately by two teams, one Swiss ...
West Ridge of Nevado Santa CruzMatthew WellsHERNANDO PIZARRO FIRST entered the Callejón de Huaylas in January of 1533. He and his small army of uninvited conquerors had been dispatched from the Inca stronghold of Cajamarca by his brother, Francisc...
K2 Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition consisted of Americans Stacy Allison (f), leader, John Petroske, Steve Steckmyer and me and Canadians Dan Culver, Jim Haberl and Dr. John Haigh. We arrived in Base Camp on June 6. The Slovene team was already ...
FALL ON ROCK, ROPE JAMMED – SO SLACK IN ROPE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Guides WallIn mid-June around 1400, Dagmar Rapp (47) was being guided up the Double Crack on guides Wall and was on the Flake Pitch. Th...
Tirich Mir Til Topps, by the Norwegian Himalayan Expedition. 176 pages, with 54 half-tone illustrations, four color plates and three maps. Oslo: Gyldendal Norsk Forlag, 1950.This is the official account, in Norwegian, of the first ascent of Tirich...
Peaks Above Harding Icefield, Kenai Mountains. Months of planning for Peru and everything begins to go wrong. Eventually comes the blow which really shakes us up. May 31 is a quiet Sunday until the news of the earthquake. Now it is impossible. Pou...
RUTH DYAR MENDENHALL1912-1989Ruth Eleanor Dyar was bom on August 16, 1912 in Kiesling, Washington, a farming hamlet near Spokane. Her father, Ralph, was a newspaper executive and playwright. Her maternal grandparents, who had emigrated from southe...
Mt. Edgar (6,618m), west face. Previously unreported in the AAJ, but a significant addition to the climbing history of the Daxue Shan, is the first ascent of Mt. Edgar (E Gongga) in 2001 by a Korean expedition. The mountain was recon- noitered by ...
Denali, Attempt, and Ascent of Browne Tower; Mt. Koven, Second Ascent; and Mt. Tatum, North Rib. Our goal was an ascent of Browne Tower and the subsequent rocky ridge line to the summit of Mt. McKinley. The upper portion of this ridge (above the m...
GeographicalDistricts1951–19931994Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta3049565318345British Columbia243955316211Yukon Territory322669000Ontario27650102Quebec25554000East Arctic72200...
A New Route on Huascarán's East FaceEduard Koblmüller, Österreichischer AlpenvereinORIGINALLY the Academic Section, Vienna of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) had planned an expedition to the Karakoram (Gasherbrum III or Batura). Because of politica...