Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park

Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On August 8, Mr. Stephen Staff (18) fell while climbing Pinnacle Peak. Injury consisted of a laceration of right wrist, requiring eight stitches. Cause of accident unknown.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Mount Hunter, Moonflower Buttress

Mount Hunter, Moonflower Buttress. It was reported that in 1995, Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker spent 36 hours camp-to-camp on the Moonflower Buttress, reaching a point below the “Come Again” exit, which is approximately five pitches below the Stump-A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina/Chile, Andes, The Polish Expedition to the Ranada Range

The Polish Expedition to the Ranada Range on the Chilean- Argentine frontier, which has been in the field since the first of the year has succeeded in making a number of new ascents. On January 18th, 1934, S. Daszynski, A, Karpinski, W Ostrowski, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Our members were Shaun Norman, Chris Curry, Mark Whetu, Dick Price, Hugh Van Noorden, Steve Bruce, Anton Woperies, Mike Rheinberger and I as leader. We hoped to climb Everest’s north face with a start on the left side of the Great...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Sani Pakkush, 1991

Sani Pakkush, 1991. Our expedition was composed of Arnfried Braun, Hans Jud, Daniel Ketterer, Leo Klimmer and me as leader. On July 13, 1991, we reached Bar at the end of the dirt road from Chalt in the Hunza Valley. We followed the East Kukuar Gl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Difficult Terrain, Insufficient Research, Alberta, Clemenceau to Chaba River Trek

STRANDED, DIFFICULT TERRAIN, INSUFFICIENT RESEARCH Alberta, Clemenceau to Chaba River TrekAn experienced party of eleven climbers flew in to the Clemenceau Icefield in August, spent five days climbing and exploring, and then started hiking out nor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Winter Attempt and Tragedy

Annapurna Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Eight South Koreans with nine Nepalese were led by Kim Teuk-Hee on the north face of Annapurna. Ice avalanches injured several members and Sherpas. At midday on December 2 during route preparation at 5800 mete...


In Memoriam AAJ
William Shand, Jr., 1918-1946

WILLIAM SHAND, JR1918-1946Über alien GipfelnIst Ruh’,In allen WipfelnSpürest duKaum einen Hauch;Die Vögelein schweigen im Walde.Warte nur, baldeRuhest du auch.GoetheWilliam Shand, Jr., was born on 5 October 1918 in Lancaster, Pa. He attended the L...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Naked Mountain

The Naked Mountain. Reinhold Messner. (Tim Carruthers, translator.) Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2003. 315 pages. Hardcover. $22.95.The Naked Mountain is Reinhold Messner’s account of the 1970 expedition to climb Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, led...


Book Reviews AAJ
Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains

Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains. Neville Shulman. Charles E. Tuttle Co., Boston, Rutland, Tokyo, 1992. 117 pages, black-and-white photographs, foreword by Chris Bonington. $12.95.Zen in the Art of Climbing Mountains is the account of Neville ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal, Janak Himal, Moaist Activity in the Spring

Maoist activity in the spring. Maoists continued to extort funds from climbers. They charged Norbert Joos’s Kangchenjunga six-member group 5,000Rs (roughly $70) per member. Another team, a Georgian and a Russian, on their way to Manaslu, were forc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Xinjiang Province, Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), First Ascent: Chiatuk (5,582m), Northwest Face; Pt. 5,485 (Tiltagh), West Face Route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315), North Face

Pt. 4,976m (Kichinekey Tagh), first ascent;Chiatuk (5,582m), northwest face; Pt.5,485m (Tiltagh), west face route; Yilpiz (ca 5,315m), north face. From Bishkek our organizers on the ground (Novino-mad—very good) arranged overnight accommodation an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mt. Wood to Mt. Macauley to Mt. Steele, High Traverse

Mt. Wood to Mt. Macauley to Mt. Steele, High Traverse. On July 28, John Millar, David Persson and I flew in to the Trapridge Glacier, where we met Alun Hubbard and Dave Hildes, who were finishing up glaciology fieldwork. In the next five days, we ...


Feature Article AAJ
Teton Ridges and Faces

Teton Ridges and FacesM. Beckett HoworthA GOOD season seemed in store for us. There had been more snow in the Tetons during the spring than many an old-timer had ever seen. Ten-foot depths had been measured in Hoback Canyon. Several thousand elk, ...


Feature Article AAJ
Reconnaissance in the Coast Range of British Columbia

Reconnaissance in the Coast Range of British ColumbiaHenry S. Hall, Jr.UTNTIL a few years ago the Coast Range of British Columbia was not thought to contain any peaks comparable with the principal summits of the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. In 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, The Selkirks, Mt. Dag, Ankles as far as the Eye Can See, Ankles Me Boy, New Routes

Mt. Dag, Ankles as Far as the Eye Can See, Ankles Me Boy, New Routes. On August 1, Jason Magness, Sam Price, Mike Brown, George Ortiz, Craig Clarence, and I all met in Slocan, British Columbia. Our goal was to put up a new route on the north face ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Morgan Harris,1916-2005

Morgan Harris 1916-2005The last of the great Yosemite climbing pioneers of the 1930s has died. Morgan Harris, during his 88 years, lived an astonishingly rich life, serious climbing being only a small part of it. This obituary will necessarily emp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Meridian Tower, First Ascent North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park

Over five days in April Dave Everett and I did the first ascent of Meridian Tower, one of the last major unclimbed formations in Zion National Park. The formation is to the right of the Altar of Sacrifice and most prominently visible from Oscar’s ...

| Published 2008 | Author Dan Stih


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Kichatna Spires, The Citadel, East Buttress

The Citadel, east buttress. The mythical Cathedral Spires of the remote, rarely frequented Kichatna Mountains were our destination. Pictures of granite spires forcing their way through bellowing cloud had sparked our imagination. Unfortunately, jo...


Feature Article AAJ
Sea Kayaking and Climbing, Chilean Patagonia

Sea Kayaking and Climbing, Chilean PatagoniaRick RidgewayFOR YEARS Yvon Chouinard and I have speculated about journeying into the labyrinth of canals, fjords and islands of the Magellanic archipelago—that remote region of Chilean Patagonia north o...