In the Chugach Range, AlaskaROBERT WESTTHE Switzerland of Alaska” is the phrase the travel posters use to describe the little seaport town of Valdez, Alaska. Situated on the flat gravel delta of the stream draining the Valdez Glacier and surrounde...
Cho Oyu, Various Ascents in the Post-Monsoon Season. The Himalayan season’s greatest success numerically was not on any mountain in Nepal but on Cho Oyu from Tibet, where 16 of the autumn’s 21 Cho Oyu expeditions claimed an unprecedented total of ...
TABLE IIIMiscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-64U.S.A.1959-64CAN.1965U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock48124540Snow 25826350River 3000Unknown0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 35428510Descent 33021370U...
Pk. 3,596' (Brackish Bitch), Varney-Hoyt.Over 21 days in August, Andy Hoyt and I, both of Girdwood, Alaska, put up a new line on Pk. 3,596', a.k.a. the Brackish Bitch, at the head of Deep Water Bay, approximately 40 boat miles from the Whittier ha...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, ALTITUDE SICKNESS, FATIGUE, DARKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 5, 1984, Bruce Matsutsuyo (30) and Steve Earle (31) flew onto the Ruth Glacier (by the Sheldon Mountain House) where they met the third member of ...
Vinson Massif and Mount Shinn, Sentinel Range. On December 13 at 1:30 A.M., Gerry Roach and I reached the summit of Vinson Massif 4897 meters, 16,067 feet), the highest peak in Antarctica, at nearly 80° S. latitude. The ascent followed the origina...
The End of A DreamAn alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makaluby Daniel MazurOctober 9th at 3 p.m., Alex Nikifarov and I stand at 8300 meters, just below the summit of Makalu. We shudder and stare up through snow-covered slabs and patch...
Mocoya Valley and Eastern Taruj Umana Valley, Various Ascents. On July 22, Will Hair, Bobby Model, Dave Shewell, Kevin Fredrick, and Rai Farrelly left La Paz on an exploratory rock climbing trip to the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. Beth Malloy joined th...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1989. For the fourth consecutive year, a new record was set for the number of mountaineers attempting to climb Mount McKinley. In 1989, 1009 persons registered to climb the mountain. It was...
Milne Land, ski descents. In April Yannick Ardouin, Patrick Huber, Ilario Prévitali, and Jean-François Richer from France were transported by snowmobile from IIttoqqortoormiut across the frozen ice of Scorsbysund to the Ofjord, which separates the...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressIn 2004, the Humphrey twin brothers Jerry and Terry (55) along with Jerry’s son Jeremy, climbed on the West Buttress in late May. D...
An Outline of Alpine Strategy in World War IIJ. Monroe ThoringtonMap 1. This map shows in diagram form how the Alps form an arc from the Mediterranean, just E. of Nice, to the head of the Adriatic at Trieste. The Ligurian and Etruscan Apennines ar...
In midmorning on October 23 Eric Dumerac (Canmore, Alberta), Philippe Pellet (Briançon, France), and I (Canmore) stepped from the warm interior of a Jet Ranger helicopter and into the early winter environs of Berg Lake, below the Emperor Face. For...
Sam Doyle, Miles Hill, George Ullrich, and I formed the British Ummannaq Climbing Expedition. After flying to Kangerlussaq on July 27, Miles, George, and I first had to walk 250km (in 70 hours), and then travel 800km aboard the yacht Gambo, to rea...
FALL INTO CREVASSE–UNABLE TO SELF-RESCUEAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 25 about 1900, Val Todd (61) fell into a crevasse at the 7,500-foot level, about 2.5 miles out from basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier. He drag...
JOHN GRESHAM MACHEN1881-1937John Gresham Machen was born at Baltimore on July 28th, 1881, and died in Bismarck, N. D., on January 1st, 1937. He was graduated from Johns Hopkins University in 1901 and took his M.A. degree at Princeton in 1904. Taki...
Early season snowfalls in the Cordillera Blanca created unstable conditions in the mountains. Most of the “action” was taking place in the bars of Huaraz. Undeterred, two small teams set off for the Laguna Parón area, hoping to find something not ...
Mount McKinley. There were 27 successful expeditions to Mount McKinley, which put 145 people on the summit of the South Peak. There were two deaths. On May 27, the Japanese Yoshikazu Okada, while descending at about 11,000 feet on a fixed line wit...
Dhaulagiri I, Northeast Ridge. From April 12 to June 10, 14 members of the Slovenian Alpine Club (Tone Škarja, leader; Dr. Damijan Meško, Viktor Grošelj, Tadej Golob, Tomaž Jakofcic, Dušan Polenik, Rafael Vodišek, Davorin Karnicar, Miha Marence, J...
Cordón Granito, various new routes. Ice avalanches roared into the big gorge looming in front of our base camp. The immense Cipreses Glacier, which forms one of the largest ice plateaus of the Andes outside Patagonia, forces its way through this 1...