Makalu, West Face Attempt. The international expedition to the west face of Makalu (27,825 feet) began with a set of ridiculously lofty goals, labored without success, came home in rancor and remained divided by arguments that are moot and probabl...
Chacraraju Rescue. After Takao Hayashida, Koji Matsui and I had successfully climbed Huascarán Sur on August 5, we were asked to assist a Japanese party on Chacraraju, which had an injured member who could not move. From the Quebrada Ranincuray th...
Chacraraju Este Attempt and Chopicalqui, Southeast Ridge. Jun’ichi Okabe and Shusuke Magara attempted in June to climb a route on Chacraraju Este to the left of the Japanese route of 1972. They gave up after being swept by an avalanche some 650 fe...
The ascent of Petermann Peak, 9,650 ft., in southeastern Greenland, north of Iceland, is described in a comprehensive article in the Geographical Journal for June, 1930. The paper is by J. M. Wordie, of the Cambridge East Greenland Expedition, 192...
New routes on Cairn Peak. From Base Camp of the Rock Climbing Section of the San Diego Chapter, Sierra Club at the Titcomb Lakes, Cairn Peak was seen as a square-topped massif to the southwest. On August 7, two new routes were climbed on its north...
Yayamari, Atun Paco and Pacco Loma, Southern Cordillera Vilcanota. In four days from Sicuani, we reached Base Camp at 16,250 feet on Laguna Amayani (a name unknown to the locals, who call the lake Cascara). Out of eleven days there, the weather wa...
Mike Pennings and I established a direct line (Fallen Angels, IV 5.10+) to the west summit on the north face of Mt. Stewart, following a prominent crack system that widens enough at one point to inspire the pitch name The Sleeping Bag Simulator. T...
Traverse of Endicott Mountains. Patrick Call, Cedron Jones and I traversed a portion of the Endicott Mountains in the Brooks Range during the end of August. We began at Anaktuvuk Pass, walked through Ernie Pass, up Grizzly Creek, over the shoulder...
Nepal, Various Winter Ascents. In the winter of 1996-97, only four expeditions came to Nepal, one each on Ama Dablam, Annapurna I, Makalu and Pumori. One Korean expedition, led by Park Young-Seok, reported success on Ama Dablam by its standard Sou...
Bhagirathi II and III, 1979. We had little information about this part of Garhwal. The only clear fact was that Bhagirathi II had been climbed. We found out after the expedition that the first ascent of Bhagirathi III had been made from the west, ...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Golden Ears Area. During the search for Mr. Evans and his son in June Don Ourom of the Mountain Rescue Group suffered severe leg fractures when hit by a falling rock. Quick radio communication brought an Air Force he...
K2. Italians Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner, Renato Casa- rotto and Alessandro Gogna, German Michael Dacher and Austrian Robert Schauer made up a strong team that hoped to climb the well publicized “Magic Line” on K2. This route would have...
Nun, Kun, White Needle and Pinnacle Peak. These peaks are now being frequently climbed. Aside from ascents noted elsewhere, Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was climbed by French led by O. Pierre, Swiss led by Michel Roch and Japanese led by Masaki ...
Too Many Darts. Tim Auger and I arose to do the East Side of Bridalveil. A quick game of darts and we set off. We never found the correct route, but just started climbing up obvious cracks to the right of the East Side route. The first pitch start...
Saraghrar South, Udren Zom South. Under the leadership of Kenichiro Yamamoto, the Hitotsubashi University Expedition left Chitral on June 27 and established Base Camp at 13,125 feet on the Rosh Gol Glacier on July 4. On the 9th Camp I was placed i...
Menthosa. An expedition of the Frosinone section of the Club Alpino Italiano was composed of Vittorio Kulczycki, leader, Lorenzo Favè, Antonio Colasanti, Roberto Ferrante, Roberto Franceschetti, Luigi Lauro, Leone Mincio, Vicenzo Monti, Luciano Pl...
Paine Towers, 1989-90. The season in Patagonia had even worse weather than usual. In the Paine Towers Italian Guido Bonvicini made a solo ascent of the Torre Norte on November 25, 1989. That same day Mario Manica and Fabio Leoni also climbed the s...
FALL ON ROCK, EPILEPTIC SEIZUREWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn April 5,1987, Paul Sims (20) suffered an epileptic seizure while climbing. This caused him to fall. His belayer held him, but the seizure caused Sims to shake, and he then hit his...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Carlos Gómez failed.
Huascarán Norte and Pisco. Raúl Bárcena Y, Guillermo Díaz R, Antonio Carmona and Vicente Hinojosa A climbed the normal route on Huascarán Norte, reaching the top on August 3. On August 11 Carmona, Samuel Díaz M, Andrés Méndez and Guillermo Díaz R ...