FALLS ON ROCK (16), FALLING ROCK (1), RAPPEL ERROR (1), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (10), PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), INADEQUATE BELAY (3), NO HARD HAT (1)New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks, Various RoutesEighteen reports were submitted for 2008, wit...
Kula Kangri (Künla Kangri*). The Kobe University Scientific and Mountaineering Expedition to Tibet consisted of 25 Japanese, i.e. 12 climbers, eight scientists, three TV cameramen, a newspaper reporter and myself as leader, and 17 Chinese, i.e. fi...
Northern St. Elias Range. The Sierra Club’s St. Elias Expedition, led by Alfred W. Baxter, had as objectives the peaks at the head of the Wood and Brabazon glaciers: Mount Wood, 15,880 feet; Mount Craig, 13,250 feet, and several unnamed peaks betw...
Continental Towers, Wind River Range. In 1967, Fred Beckey and Bob Stevenson hiked up Little Sandy Creek and saw a set of worthy peaks perched on the Continental Divide near the valley’s head. They climbed the middle tower via gullies and chimneys...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Mt. Moran. On 13 August Doug Mains (18) and Jim Yeates (20) were down climbing the Chicago Mountaineering Club Route on Mount Moran following a hailstorm at 1430. They were unroped and Mains was leading. They were hurrying a...
FINGERS IN JUMAR ASCENDER, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Eagle Cliff MountainOn June 10, 1991, while participating in the annual rescue training session for RMNP seasonal personnel, Rescuer #1 (62) was desce...
Changtse Attempt. New Zealand guides Shaun Norman and Mike Perry with clients Dave Massam, Gordon Hassell and Barry Bridgeman attempted the Japanese route on the north face of Changtse in the pre-monsoon period. They reached a high point of 7100 m...
Oak Creek Canyon, Christopher’s Tower and Lucifer’s Tooth. On January 13, Dan Stih and I climbed a freestanding tower in Oak Creek Canyon, just north of Sedona, Arizona. The line involved two mostly aid pitches on a steep compact face following co...
AVALANCHES NEAR A CITY—Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Flattop Mountain and Kotoya Peak. During the Christmas-New Year week of 1973-1974, Alaska experienced unseasonable warm weather. In Anchorage on 26 December, a high temperature of 42 degrees F. (5°...
Gasherbrum II Attempt. A five-member French expedition led by veteran 61-year-old Pierre Mazeaud attempted the standard route on Gasherbrum II but failed in high winds. On August 2, François Matter and Laurent Lesueur got to 7900 meters.Xavier Egu...
NICHOLAS VANDERBILT1958-1984Nicholas Vanderbilt and his companion, Francis Gledhill, disappeared in August 1984 while attempting the Wishbone Arête of Mount Robson (12,972 feet), highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Repeated helicopter searches o...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 6, Mr. Gordon Tebb (23), a Mount Rainier professional guide, was struck a glancing blow on the head by a falling rock while belaying climbers descending toGibraltar Ledge. He was knocked unconscio...
Guidebook for Mountains of the Northwest. The A.A.C. looks forward to completion in the near future of the new Climber’s Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains. In about 275 pages, the volume will describe approximately 1000 routes on some 500...
Eine Erinnerung in Bildern an das schöne Stubai, Tirol. 109 photo-illustrations, four in color. Innsbruck: Wagner’sche Univ.-Buchdruckerei, 1956. Price 44 Sch.The Stubai valley, its upper extremity apposed to the heart of the Oetztal, reaches Inns...
Sherpas. James F. Fisher, Foreword by Sir Edmund Hillary. University of California Press. 19 color plates and 104 black-and-white illustrations. Paperback.To the best of my knowledge I have never met James Fisher. Nonetheless, I feel a certain par...
Condoriri Region, Various Ascents. While visiting the Condoriri region in July, 1995, I “enchained” two peaks, climbing them back-to-back to make one long route. From our 15,000-foot Base Camp above Lago Condoriri, I first climbed Cerro Condoriri ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 23, Bryce Perkins fell while leading a climbing route in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Mr. Perkins’ fall of approximately 60 feet, resulted in injuries to his head, ...
Ranrapalca, Artesonraju, Caraz I, Palcaraju, 1980. Yves-Claude Sonnenwyl, Pierre Morand and I first made a new route on Ranrapalca by the north col between it and Ocshapalca. The route to the col was rather complicated. We bivouacked on June 21, 1...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, WEATHER, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 11, Chris Sproul (26) and David Sweedler (37) began the Notch Couloir (III, AI 3, 5.5) on the East Face of Longs Peak...
Mendenhall Towers Traverse. In August 1982 Dick Ellesworth and Bruce Lulla traversed all the Mendenhall Towers from west to east in a seven-day period. They started with the Rabbit Ears Spire and continued along the ridge. The seven nights in bivo...