Ishinca, Yanamarey Group, and Minor Peaks North of Alpamayo. My wife and I came the whole way up the Amazon to Pucallpa and then by road to Huánuco. After a look at the Cordillera Huayhuash, we went on to Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca and to the...
King Fisher, The Hazing. It was reported that Eric Kohl, Bryan Law (joined by Pete Takedaon the final push) climbed The Hazing (5.8 A3) on the west face of the King Fisher. Also, Stevie Haston (U.K.) reportedly freed Phantom Spirit on the Echo Tow...
Anyemaqen 5. Our expedition climbed what we believe was an untrodden summit in the Anyemaqen group, Anyemaqen 5 (6090 meters, 19,981 feet). Six university students placed Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4300, 4800 and 5200 meters on July 23, 28 an...
Mentok I Attempt. A two-member team from Delhi, India, consisting of Paramjit Singh and Alka Sabharwal, attempted this peak (6340 meters), which is the highest peak standing on the long Mentok range, rising parallel to the western shore of the Tso...
No-Escape Buttress Arête, Mount Moran. First ascent on September 11, 1960 by Al Read and Dave Dornan. On August 21, 1960 Pete Lev and Read did the lower half of the route. They began the climb to the right of the arête, which they reached after tw...
Panch Chulhi. Led by Flight Lieutenant A. K. Chowdhury, Indians visited the Panch Chulhi region. They failed to climb Panch Chulhi I (22,650 feet) and Panch Chulhi II, but they did climb Panch Chulhi III (20,710 feet), IV (20,780 feet) and V (21,1...
Pumori. The south ridge of Pumori (23,442 feet) was climbed by a Canadian team consisting of Tim Auger, Lloyd “Kiwi” Gallagher, George Homer, Chris Shank, Steve Sutton and me. The ridge is the continuation of the ridge above Gorak Shep, which incl...
Mount Fernow, North Face. Bill and Gene Prater, Fred Dunham, and Jim Wickwire climbed the ice finger on the north face of Mount Fernow on September 16 and 17. The approach was by way of Big Creek, upstream on Railroad Creek from the ghost town, Ho...
Pisco and. Chopicalqui. Members of the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club reached Base Camp in the Quebrada Llanganuco on June 23. Some of the group climbed Pisco and Chopicalqui by the normal route. In early July, Dailey and I made an unsuccessful at...
Chopicalqui, South Face. On August 3 H. Kamuro and I left Huaraz for Shilla and the next day continued on to the Mátara Glacier via the Quebradas Ulta and Mátara. We gave up our original objective, the east face of Huascarán as being too dangerous...
The East African Mountain Club, P. Ungerer, honorary sec- rectary and treasurer, has been founded at Moshi, Tanganyika, to assist persons desirous of climbing the summits of Kilamanjaro massif and generally to encourage climbers and visitors to th...
The “Plume”. After a late start from Lonesome Lake, Court Richards and I climbed the first three leads up the north face of the “Plume”, traversing right on the left wall of the north couloir. We made two leads up easy ledges to the col between th...
Jatunhuma I, West Face, Cordillera Vilcanota. Dave Wilkinson and I spent twelve days in the area, based at Ticlacocha. Apart from the rubbish piles, it was a delightful place and we were blessed with the promised good Andean weather. Campa I and C...
Angel Wings, South Arête, Original Route. In February 2002 Jason Magness and I made what we believe was the first winter ascent of the South Arête of Angel Wings, in Sequoia National Park. After an 18-mile snowshoe approach, we pulled off our plas...
Attempt on Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. John Cady, Kep Stone, and Chuck Kroger made an attempt in late July on the northeast ridge of Ausangate. From a camp at 18,500 feet they set out to try for the top, but made slow progress in rotten snow ...
Fairweather, West Ridge, Winter Ascent. On March 16 Alaskans Dave Pahlke, George Ferry, Richard Burton, Bruce Hickok and I made the first winter ascent of Mount Fairweather via the west ridge. We landed at 3000 feet at the base of the west ridge o...
Tukuche, Ascent and Attempts. It was reported that three teams attempted Tukuche (6920m) in the pre-monsoon. Bart Vos (NL) made the first ascent when he climbed the northwest ridge from the French Pass on April 10. Dutch climber Aad Buijtendijk an...
Travel in the Austera Peak Region and Primus Peak, North Ridge. From the southwest, access to the northeast rampart of Austera Peak is a logistical hassle. On September 7 I climbed Austera Peak, then down-climbed toward the northwest, to the first...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn November 4, 1983, Pat Ranstrom (26) was leading the last pitch of The Surprise when she took a fall resulting in a compound fracture of her lower left leg. Afteran initial assessment...
Bhagirathi I, Southeast Ridge. All thirteen men and two women of the Japanese Kanagawa Prefecture Expedition completed the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Bhagirathi (6856 meters, 22,494 feet). Base Camp was set up on September 7 at Nandanb...