Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Inexperience, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefields, Mount Athabasca

AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefields, Mount AthabascaOn June 9, B.M. and N.Z. climbed Mount Athabasca via a variation of the standard North Glacier Route. They opted to descend the standard “ramp” route. The par...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himal Chuli Attempt

Himal Chuli Attempt. A six-man Polish expedition led by Tadeusz Piotrowski attempted Himal Chuli (7893 meters, 25,895 feet) by its unclimbed south ridge. The porters quit on April 12 and so the march-in took three weeks. Base Camp was established ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy

Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. A 15-member Japanese expedition to the east ridge of Manaslu was led by Seigo Matsushima. On October 27, Shinja Furukawa, Hiroshi Kokub, Hitoshi Kudo and Ichigi Kudo reached 6500 meters and descended. The next day Ichi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, Mt. Elbrus, Ascent, and New Year Millennium Celebration

Mt. Elbrus, Ascent, and New Year Millennium Celebration. During the New Year, a team from Moscow led by Maxim Shakirov and comprising Juri Saveliev, and Sergey Larin, together with Igor Cheresku (leader of Shkhelda Emergency Rescue service), greet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Blackburn

Blackburn. Teruo Takeda and Yoshiaki Fujii of the Sado Alpine Club were landed on May 23 on the Nabesna Glacier at 6500 feet. They placed Camp I in the west col at 10,000 feet on the 25th. Camp II was placed on May 28 at 13,125 feet. They climbed ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Protection Pulled Out, Fall to Ground, New York, Shawangunks

PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL TO GROUND New York, ShawangunksOn August 30, 1986, a man (23) leading Jean (5.9) was being lowered when the highest piece of protection, a nut, pulled. He droped six meters to the ground, resulting in a possible ankle f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Everest, Attempt to Traverse the Peak by the West and Northeast Ridges

Everest, Attempt to Traverse the Peak by the West and Northeast Ridges. On September 7, Frenchmen Jean Afanassieff, Bernard Prud’homme, Louis-Paul Chantelat, Eric Escoffier, Dr. Jean-Louis Etienne, Xavier Fargeas, Bruno Gal- let, Serge König, Amer...


Book Reviews AAJ
Peterli and the Mountain

Peterli and the Mountain, by Georgia Engelhard. 40 pages, 8 illustrations by Madeleine Gekiere. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1954. Price, $2.25.This is an unusual mountaineering story, being the adventures of Peterli, a fine re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Stortind Southwest Ridge

Stortind Southwest Ridge, Norway. There is a complete article on this climb in Norway earlier in this Journal.


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Poor Position, California, Yosemite Valley

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITION California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 12, 1988, Jeff Kasten (25) and Glenn Pinson (23) intended to begin their climb of the regular route on Half Dome, using Tom Rollins (23) to help carry gear to the base. ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Die Schweiz in Römischer Zeit

Die Schweiz in Römischer Zeit, by Felix Staehelin. 8vo; xvi + 659 pages, with 205 photographic illustrations and plans. Basel: Benno Schuabe & Co. Verlag, 1948. Price Sw. Fr. 31.20.This is the third revised edition of a monumental work first i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Ladrillero, First Ascent

Cerro Ladrillero, first ascent. Patagonia is a land that challenges you to be patient, where waiting for the window is key and, because of that, waiting becomes a skill that is useful for getting prepared for when the opportunity comes. This we di...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington—near Camp Muir; Mt. Rainier National Park

Washington—near Camp Muir; Mt. Ranier National Park: On August 16, 1952, John Burkhart (20), of Mason, Illinois fell into a crevasse on the snowfield below Camp Muir. He was hiking to Camp Muir with several companions. Normally, this lower snow fi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Cordillera Huayhuash. The Cordillera Huayhuash has been practically unvisited since 1987, but interest is now being revived due to the decline of the activities of the Sendero Luminoso. Doris Walter and her French party unsuccessfully attempted th...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

GeographicalDistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-70DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of Accidents1971DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta 261332416British Columbia 5717849210Yukon Territory 5494413Ontario111000Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — No...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, West Kokshaal-Tau, Kizil Asker Area, Various Ascents

Kizil Asker Area, Various Ascents. In 1997, I traveled with an international team of five to the West Kokshaal-Tau range, the southwestern-most part of the Tien Shan mountains on the border with China (see 1998 AAJ, pp. 342-3). In 1998, supported ...


Club Activities AAJ
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers

Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Hoofer activities for 1957 resembled those of previous years, both locally and in terms of summer trips. During the winter months we thrived as ski enthusiasts and held several meetings to review the accomplishments ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Mercedario, East Face

Mercedario, East Face. An Italian expedition from Padua made the first ascent of the east face of Mercedario (21,894 feet). The leader was Toni Mastellaro and the members were Sergio Billoro, Andrea Cassutti, Dr. Pier Paolo Cago, Franco Cremonese,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Mount Shuksan, Traverse from Cloudcap Peak via Jagged Ridge

Mount Shuksan, Traverse from Cloudcap Peak via Jagged Ridge. The morning of July 11 found John Meulemans, Irene Whittlerova, and Tony Hovey in the rugged Nooksack cirque, gazing along the length of Jagged Ridge beginning with Cloudcap Peak and end...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Three Fingers, East Face Couloir

Three Fingers, East Face Couloir. On August 16, Jim Stoddard, Ted Carpenter and I made the first ascent of Three Fingers via its east side. From High Camp at timberline above Squire Creek we contoured south over easy terrain, continuing across sno...