Hushe Valley, Various Ascents. Giuseppe Masdea, Maurizio Garota, Danilo Valsecchi, Corrado Valsecchi and I, all members of the Lecco Group of the Italian Alpine Club, arrived at Charakusa Base Camp July 19, after a very comfortable and easy approa...
Gautam Himal and Palchung Hamga Himal, Exploration, Previously Unreported. One goal of our 1999 journey to Dolpo was to reveal the topographical detail of the border range, now called the Gautam Himal, including research of all the passes of north...
Dorje Lhakpa Attempt. Our expedition consisted of M. Paolucci, D. Moran- dotti, F. Cella, L. Zarpellon, L. Lehner, Dr. M. Dell’Oca and me as leader. We approached from the south. We hoped to climb the ridge system used by the Germans for their des...
Ecuadorian ascents. Marco Cruz and the Frenchman Joseph Bergé made in October 1974 the first ascent of the north face of Quilindaña, the “Matterhorn of Ecuador” (4898 meters, 16,070 feet), the last 1000 feet being on a near vertical rock wall of n...
JOHN FRANCIS BRETT1893-1982John Brett, a member of both the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada, died in October 1982 in Montreux, Switzerland. His death was preceded by that of his wife Elizabeth in September of the same year. John...
Broad Peak, winter attempt. A Spanish team led by Juanito Oiarzabal attempted Broad Peak (8,048m) this winter. They came in January 2003 and left in middle of March. They climbed up to 6,500m and had to abandon the climb owing to strong winds that...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section has been active on the crags and peaks of the world, and in addition members have conducted the less glamorous day-to-day contacts with landowners and administrators that are so vital to the...
Further note on the French ascent of Taweche. This was an unauthorized ascent of a peak, not on the permitted list, by a French group led by Yannick Seigneur, who had gone to Khumbu to investigate the possibilities of high-altitude skiing from 600...
AAC, Oregon Section. A unique gathering of people interested in the many issues concerning mountaineering in Tibet occurred in Portland this year. American Alpine Club members Tom Bennett, Bob McGown, Jean Fitzgerald, Neale Creamer and Ian Wade, t...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY—CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 9, 1992, at 0900, Andy Griffiths (36) was attempting to climb Lamb's Slide on the East face of Longs Peak. He slipped and slid 300 feet, su...
Bhagirathi III, Southwest Face, New Route and Repeat of Scottish Route. Our expedition reached Base Camp at Nandanban on August 2. We were Pavel Trefil, leader, Leoš Chwistek, Štefan Danko, Zdedek Michalec, Bohuslav Mrozek and I. After acclimatiza...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers’ Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Ron Eng, has maintained its traditional focus on alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. The Basic and Intermediate Climbing courses, which compose the core of...
Everest Attempt. I was the leader of a 19-member expedition from Zagreb. We had hoped to climb the Australian route on Everest’s north side. We established Base Camp at 5200 meters, Advance Base at the junction of the Middle and West Rongbuk Glaci...
Laila. The Hekiryo Alpine Club expedition was led by Yoshinora Isomura and Tomiyasu Ishikawa. They left Skardu on July 4 and went through Yuno and Arandu to Base Camp at 13,450 feet at the junction of the Chogolungma and Haramosh Glaciers on July ...
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face of the South Summit. On April 4 Cliff Moore and I climbed the route done in 1976. (See A.A.J., 1977, p. 161.) We climbed alpine-style, making the ascent and descent in five days. We descended the west ridge, following i...
Cashmere Crags, North Face of the Black Pyramid. On June 3, from our camp under a large boulder below the north face, Jim Stuart and I selected the route which began at the base of a dihedral that soars upward for 200 feet and continued toward the...
FALLING OBJECTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn June 24, 1994, our party began an ascent of the Triple Direct route on El Capitan. That evening, as we bivouacked on Mammoth Terraces, we observed two portaledges set up on the Shield, about ...
Day Needle, East Face. In July Ed Conner and I free-climbed this face staying, as far as we could tell, on Beckey’s original route up the prow except that we started the route by third-classing about 300 feet up the couloir to a point about 30 fee...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot—On July 27, Thomas Mayer (20) and Warren Wolff (20) were descending the east face of Teewinot. Weather and climbing conditions were good. The party was below the Black Chimney, to the right of the...
FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT—California, Yosemite Valley. Shary McVoy (28) stated that she and Jeff Hall (29) arrived in Yosemite on March 20, intending to climb The Nose route, a Grade VI, 5.8 A3 climb on El Capitan. The following is McVoy’s account i...