Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 5, Mr. Sam Raether (24) was rescued from east wall of Nisqually Glacier moraine after being stranded for six hours. He was removed by National Park Service rescue team at 11:30 p.m. No injuries. I...

Mount Hunter, Southeast Ridge, Hard Saying Not Knowing. In early May, Judd Stewart and myself (Wesley Bunch) were flown into a seldom-visited arm of the Tokositna Glacier by pilot Doug Geeting. We arrived with the intention of attempting a new rou...

Panch Chuli II (6,904m), ascents and tragedies. In one of the worst avalanche tragedies in the history of Himalayan mountaineering nine members of an Indo-Tibet Border Police team to Panch Chuli II (the highest of the Panch Chuli Group at 6,904m) ...

An Italian expedition to the Andes has been organized by the Club Alpino Academico Italiano under the leadership of Count Aldo Bonacossa. We understand that the plans call for an ascent of Aconcagua and Cerro del Plomo. The party hope to make a co...

Chogolisa Glacier: Pk. 5,500m, north face; Raven's Peak, south face; Capucin, south face; Pk. 6,000m, northwest face. Charakusa Glacier: Iqbal’s Wall, attempt. As in 2004, when we climbed above the Chogolisa Glacier, north of the Charakusa, comple...

Alaskan Kayak MountaineeringWalter R GovewITH PRESENT TECHNOLOGY and techniques and given sufficient time and willingness to accept risks, it is now possible to climb any serious mountaineering objective. And with the successful ascent of virtuall...

ICE COLUMN COLLAPSE - FALL ON ICE, LATE SEASONWyoming, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Canyon of the YellowstoneOn May 25, Mark Ehrich (28) and Michael Kellch (29) died when a frozen waterfall called Silver Cord Cascade collapsed while they were ...

Stjernebannertinde, Ascent, and Exploration of Kaffeklubben and Oodaap Islands. In July of 1996 the American Top of the World Expedition set up a base camp near Bliss Bugt on the north slope of Johannes Jensen Land 30 miles east of Kap Jessup. The...

Hiunchuli Attempt, Annapurna Group. Slovenes Bojan Pockar, leader, Tadej Golob and Štefan Mlinaric visited Hiunchuli (6441 meters, 21,133 feet), hoping to climb the virgin 2000-meter southwest face. Not finding an easy approach, they moved over to...

In 2007 Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I attempted Yang- molong [AAJ 2008). In September-October 2009 we returned with Derek Buckle to explore the northern approaches. We traveled up the Sanchu River valley and stayed at lower Sanglong Xi,...

Yerupajá, South Face, Ascent. It was reported that in 1997, an Austrian team climbed the south face of Yerupajá (6634m) to the south summit on what may have been a new route. Further details are lacking. (High Mountain Sports 189)

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn April 26, Brandon Keller (22) fell while leading “Skyscraper,” a one pitch climb, in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Keller suffered injuries to his head, neck, and back as ...

Huamashraju, Northwest Ridge and Alpamayo. Pete Billington, Steve Callen, Dave Wilson and I climbed Huamashraju by its northwest ridge on May 8. The ridge offered steep, good climbing to the summit. Short snowstorms delayed us in the afternoon and...

California, Yosemite, Mt. Conness—On June 12, Donald Q. Goodrich (27), Krehe Ritter, Raphael Tejado-Flores (17), and Denis Rutovitz, in two ropes of two men, started a climb of the southwest face of Mt. Conness at 8:00 a.m. Climbing continued all ...

The Sentinel, East Face, The Belly of the Buddha, Previously Unreported. The Belly of the Buddha (V 5.10 A2+, 12 Pitches), first climbed in May, 1998, by Jersey Dave Littman and I, climbs the prominent red wall between the Streaked Wall and The Bi...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, McHenry’s PeakTom Hillmer (19) and brother Tim Hillmer had climbed the Stone Man Pass route for the summit of McHenry’s Peak on August 21. As they were traversing a snowfield, Tom slipped on the snow and...

HANDHOLD CAME OFF—FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 19, prior to 0900, Steve Mestdagh (39) was leading the North Chimney (II, 5.6) on the East Face of Longs Peak when he dislodged a large...

Fairweather, 1982. At dawn of July 27, 1982 Dick Sletten, Warren Wilder and I attained the summit of Fairweather (4663 meters, 15,300 feet). It was a perfect day with spectacular views to St. Elias and Logan to the north, Glacier Bay to the southe...

Montana, Glacier National Park, Mt. Henkel. On June 20, James E. Moylan (17) and Douglas L. Krueger (18) climbed Mt. Henkel (8710 ft.). They ate their lunch on the summit and started back down at 12:20 p.m. taking a different route that Moylan had...

Shivling, East Pillar, Second Ascent. Americans Mark Richey and John Bouchard made a rapid second ascent of this often-tried route in June. A full account of their climb appears earlier in this journal.