Illampu Group, Cordillera Real. The members of the Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition were Bruce W. Hooker, Nevelle P. Jordison, Paul J. McCartney, Stephen Ridgill, David P. Steel, Roger Scull, Richard W. Wroot, and I. Sad to say, Steel a...
The Big Book of Mountaineering, edited by Bruno Moravetz. Translated by Diana Stone Peters and Frederick G. Peters. Woodbury, N.Y.: Barron’s, 1981. 288 pages, 112 pages of full-color illustrations. Price $49.95.Measuring fourteen by eleven inches ...
The Mazamas. The year 1969 was the year that The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, took a nostalgic backward look to July 19, 1894, when two large parties climbed Mount Hood by the north-side Cooper Spur route and by the south side. Meeting at the summ...
Annapurna III Attempt. A seven-man British expedition led by Mal Duff had great difficulties with the terrain on the approach up the Seti Khola. Their cook died of high-altitude pulmonary edema on September 12 before they reached Base Camp. After ...
Huascarán Sur, Turbera, and Nevado Copa, Mostro Africano to southwest ridge. Upon returning to Huaraz in June, after climbing Siulá Chico, Oriol Baró and I decided to attempt something more. Having spent six days on our previous route, we wanted s...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. The Section held two official meetings during the year. Our main program has been the establishment of the Arkel Erb Memorial Library. Club members helped prepare and move the books to the Los Angeles County Li...
An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England. Rick Wilcox. International Mountain Equipment, Inc., North Conway, New Hampshire, 1982. 225 pages, 35 black and white photographs, 33 diagrams and photodiagrams, 4 maps. $15.00.New ice routes have be...
Arnaud and I rarely have the opportunity to climb together. Eight hundred kilometers separate us; Arnaud in his Briançonnais, me in my Pyrenees. We cross paths at his place during the winter, where we make time for an explosive ice cocktail. He al...
P 6725, Pangong Range, Ladakh, 1987. A 20-man team of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by Itam Singh put three members on top of P 6725 (22,064 feet) in early September, 1987. This is said to be the highest peak in the range.Himalayan Club Newsl...
1951-20052006Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arct...
Cerro Almirante Nieto, various attempts; various other ascents. Grega Lacen and I, Slovenes, came to the park on December 1. The next day’s weather was great, so we went up to try the beautiful, unclimbed northwest pillar of Almirante. It was hard...
Purcell Range, Farnham Group. During August 1954 a party of five, four of us members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, climbed in the Farnham Group of the Purcell Range. The party was composed of Arthur Read, Robert West, his wife Peggy, Peter L...
Poincenot, southwest face, Rise of the Machines. Over the years Jens Holsten, Mikey Schaefer, and I spent hours studying a high-resolution photo, picking out a line on this aesthetic face. It looked like high-quality, straight-in cracks to where i...
The Lloyd George MountainsJ. Monroe ThoringtonBECAUSE of improved transportation facilities by airplane, the unexplored region of British Columbia between the Finlay, Peace and Fort Nelson (Liard) Rivers is of increasing interest to mountaineers.T...
Bindu Gul Zorn II. We traveled by jeep through Chitral and reached Zum-gramgran in the Tirich valley on July 21. We pitched Base Camp on July 24 on the Lower Tirich Glacier below the Bindu Gul Zom peaks. A long ridge descends eastward from Tirich ...
Alaska—Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes: (The U.S.G.S. has requested that the person’s name involved in the following accident be omitted out of consideration for the family.) W. J. (24) left the U.S.G.S. Camp on the south bank of Knife Creek just no...
FALL ON ROCK - FAILURE TO BELAY THUMBCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Oct 12, Matt Krueger (41) and I, John Robinson (64), started climbing up to Sickle Ledge from the base of El Cap, intending to fix our lines for a head start on the Nos...
Five Miles High: The Story of an Attack on the Second Highest Mountain in the World, by Members of the First American Karakoram Expedition. Edited by Robert H. Bates. 8 vo.; xii +381, with 38 illustrations from photos, 1 chart and 2 maps. New York...
RAPPEL ERROR—NO RACKUP/RELAY, INEXPERIENCE, WEATHER British Columbia, Park Range, Watchtower PeakThe Watchtower (2543 meters) is a grade 5.7 rock climb in Yoho National Park. On August 14, 1993, N.W. and J.O. set out from the Lake O’Hara road at 1...
Nepal Himalaya, expedition endorsements cut, Mt. Everest fees lowered, garbage deposits changed. For several years the American Alpine Club lobbied to remove the endorsement letter required for expeditions wanting to climb in Nepal. This included ...