Nun. The Himalayan Association of Japan Expedition was composed of Masaki Susuki, Tomihiko Iimura, Hideki Azuma, Masayuki Teramoto, Tsutomu Ogawa, Tadao Ando, Taichiro Takahashi, Hiroshi Yashima and me as leader. We arrived at Tongol, the last vil...
RODNEY L. GLISAN1869-1934To old friends of Rodney L. Glisan, the news of his death brought inexpressible sadness. No longer a youth, his presence always suggested youth and optimism. On the trail or at the campfire he was always the cheery, tirele...
Centennial Range Peaks Climbed by Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition. The climb of Mount Vancouver is covered in a separate article in this Journal. In the Centennial Range all the peak names are official, having been approved by the Permanent Com...
Three crowded Fourth of July flights brought Peter Brown, John Hauck, Dick Jablonowski, Dan Osborne, and me to the 8000-foot plateau of the east branch of the Yentna Glacier. Two days later we occupied a high camp nestled under a small ice cliff a...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. This season was not only another warm one, but also a record year for climbers. Attempts on Denali alone totaled a whopping 1,340 climbers, breaking the former record of 1,305.The year began with the tra...
Chief’s Head, Northeast Face. Jeff Lowe and I made a second route on the northeast face of Chief’s Head, “Risky Business.” (IV, 5.11 + ). It climbs just right of the center of the face for ten pitches. Four were of 5.10 to 5.11 range and the crux ...
HIGH WINDS AND POSSIBLE AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Harper GlacierOn the evening of July 3, a 16-member National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) expedition was hit by high wind or possibly debris from an avalanche at approximately 17,200 fee...
Menthosa. Menthosa (21,140 feet) in Chamba was scaled for the first time on October 13 by a British Servicemen team led by Captain S. Bemrose. The summit pair was Royal Marine Lieutenant Stewart Rae and REME Captain Rory Cape.Soli S. Mehta and Jag...
University of Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The new year arrived with the sound of scraping skis during the annual Hoofer trip to the Wind Rivers in Wyoming. Lack of snow hampered the first week’s activities, while storms during the second week p...
Hyperborea, West Face of Asgard’s North TowerNoel Craine, Alpine Climbing GroupOUR EXPEDITION WAS ORIGINALLY composed of Britons Simon Yates, Keith Jones, Paul Pritchard and me and American Steve Quinlan. We were on Baffin Island in Arctic Canada....
Bear Tooth, House of the Rising Sun to southwest ridge. In mid-April, Jared Vilhauer, Zach Shlosar, and I left our base camp and skied to our gear cache on the south fork of the Buckskin Glacier. We left our skis and headed for an untouched 3,200'...
FALL ON ROCK, DESCENDING UNROPED, OFF ROUTEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Mount Sir DonaldAt 0500 on August 24,1985, a party of two (31 and 27) set out from the Illecillewaet Campground (1220 meters) to attempt a light, rapid ascent of Mt. S...
Pico Huamlla, Cordillera Yauyos. With the American Bill Douglas, I visited the Cordillera Yauyos, taking the Huancayo-Cañete road. At Santo Tomas we drove through a narrow limestone canyon with 1000-foot vertical or overhanging walls, often festoo...
ALISON JANE HARGREAVES 1962- 1995Alison Jane Hargreaves had shot to prominence as one of the world’s greatest mountaineers in just a few years, but hers was no casual encounter. Born in Derbyshire in 1962, she acquired a deep and abiding love of t...
FROSTBITE-INADEQUATE CLOTHING (NO OVERBOOTS) AND INADEQUATE CARE OF EXTREMITIESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJerry Hopfe flew onto Denali on May 2 as a part of the three-member “Steves” team. The group made steady progress arriving at 14,20...
Geschichte und Sozialordnung der Sherpa, by Michael Oppitz. Innsbruck-Munich, Universitätsverlag Wagner Ges. m.b.H., 1968. 170 pages, 21 photographs (one full page colored), 11 schedules and charts, 6 genealogies, 2 maps.History and Social Structu...
In April Alex Appelby, Ben Bizwell, Tom Francis, and I arrived in Haines to ski-traverse the Juneau Icefield, while making as many ascents and first descents as possible. Although all British, we were a diverse group, living in different parts of ...
Members are urged to send to the Secretary a record of their climbs, together with any new information relative to the regions visited.A number of our members attended the 1929 Annual Camp of the Alpine Club of Canada at Rogers Pass, B. C., from w...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 18 May Spencer Conley (34), was leading a pitch on the East route of Monday Morning Slab. He states that he was out 100 feet on the rope with two pitons placed for protection. The last pin was a lost arrow ho...
When the Steel Went Through, by P. Turner Bone. 8vo., 180 pp., 21 photographic illustrations. Toronto, 1947: The Macmillan Co., Price, $3.00.The author, who died while his book was in press, was one of the few survivors of those who did the origin...