Ama Dablam, west face. Yasuyuki Shinno and Takahiro Yoshida made a very rare ascent of the west face. It appears the pair hoped to climb a new line between the American and Smid routes but decided there was too much steep rock, so instead more or ...
ROGER SHERMAN WHITNEY1905-1965Roger Sherman Whitney, born at Wainscott, Long Island on June 19, 1905, lost his life along with Thomas Heim on July 21, 1965 while descending a steep snow slope at 19,300 feet on Ranrapalca in Peru.A graduate of Yale...
A.A.C.: Sierra Nevada Section. New officers were elected at the final meeting in December 1951: Oscar A. Cook, chairman; Robin Hansen, vice-chairman; Richard C. Houston, secretary-treasurer; Lawrence G. Coveney and David R. Brower, additional memb...
In Cold Blood, West Face of Sentinel Rock. The renowned American authority on mountaineering, Curtis W. Casewit, says, “Solo climbing is insanity.” And Mr. Casewit, of course, is an honorable man. I love to read such fatuous remarks, coming as the...
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Our Mountaineering Section topped off another good year in 1989. Membership growth continued as the sport becomes more popular, activities keep expanding and members have even found time to go climbing!The Second An...
Snowpatch Spire, Sweet Sylvia. In the Bugaboos during the last week of July, Craig Luebben, Will Hair, Brad Jackson and Kennan Harvey teamed up to establish Sweet Sylvia (V 5.12b) on the right end of the east face of Snowpatch Spire.Will and I arr...
Cerro Torre SoloMarco Pedrini, Club Alpino Svizzero *THE ENORMOUS advances in free climbing achieved in the last ten years have also raised the standard of classic alpinism, especially in regard to light expeditions and major ascents undertaken in...
In January-February 2008 I spent eight days during a two-week period putting up, and then trying to redpoint, a new route on an unclimbed tower at Na Pha Daeng. I eventually managed to climb the whole of the crux pitch to a point just four meters ...
Northern Fairweather Range, Various First Ascents and Descents. On April 18, our group of seven climbers and skiers (Jim Earl, Tiffany Scrymgeour, Chris Erickson, Anne Sherwood, Brendan Cusick, Chris Trimble and Hjoerdis Rickert) were flown from Y...
East Face of Thor PeakRichard PownallFEW of the many mountaineers who frequent the Teton Range know or have heard of Thor Peak, a mountain rising to an elevation of 12,018 feet, located at the head of Leigh Canyon and partially hidden by the massi...
Northeast Face of Mount BabelBrian GreenwoodSOME YEARS ago a leading California climber stated that climbing in North America had not yet reached the same standards as in Europe. I am sure no one would express that opinion today – certainly not in...
Russell O. Huse 1908-2004Russell Huse’s roots are deeply embedded in the area of Ventura County, California, originally known as the Rancho El Conejo, part of which was named Rancho El Triunfo and later called the Russell Ranch. This 6,000-acre fa...
Mazama Centennial, 1994. (Editor’s Note: Because the Mazamas are celebrating their Centennial, we are placing this report here. The regular annual report also appears below.)At four P.M., July 19, 1994, exactly one century will have elapsed since ...
Fitz Roy. On February 21 Chilean Gino Cassasa and Austrian Walter Bertsch reached the summit of Fitz Roy. Following the American route with a variant in the upper part, they overcame the difficulties on February 20 and bivouacked on the easy summi...
To the Ends of the Earth: Adventures of an Expedition Photographer. Gordon Wiltsie. NewYork: W.W. Norton, 2006. Hardback. 224 pages. $35.00.Gordon Wiltsie’s To the Ends of the Earth is a merry carnival of destinations, a shiny ride that spins read...
Muztagh Ata and Unnamed Peak Ascents. The summer of 1994 found me in Kashgar, Xinjiang, on the way to West Tibet. My companion, Paula Quenomoen, and I decided to do a side trip into the Kunlun Mountains before heading to Mount Kailash. We establis...
Santa Rosa, Cordillera Raura. On August 19 Stuart Turner, Chuck Satterfield and I stood on the summit of Santa Rosa (18,758 feet) after a long climb via the hitherto unapproached east side and north ridge, having made what was probably the fourth ...
Illimani, Cordillera Real. Among several successful groups which reached the 21,201-foot summit of Illimani in 1970 were Italians from a large group sent out by the Uget section of the Club Alpino Italiano. From Camp III at 19,000 feet the guide L...
Fitz Roy and Aguja Guillaumet. On January 4 Chris Blatter, Jim Jennings and I arrived at the entrance of the Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, hoping to repeat the French route on Fitz Roy, climbed by Terray and Magnone in 1953. As far as we know,...
FALL ON ICE, FAILURE OF ICE SCREW, EXCEEDING ABILITIESVermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn February 9, 1981, Larry Dieringer (26) was climbing with a group from the StoweSchool. The accident occurred around 4:00 p.m. Dieringer climbed 15 feet on mixed vert...