Seven Years in Tibet, by Heinrich Harrer, translated from the German by Richard Graves. Introduction by Peter Fleming. 288 pages, 1 colored frontispiece, and 25 black and white illustrations. London: Rupert Hart-Davis, 1953. Price 16/—. New York: ...
California: (1) Sierra Nevada, Two 17-year-old youths, Christopher S. Reynolds and Steven R. Wasserman, left a camp camp on 7 August 1950 to climb the east face of Mt. Whitney, with only very light clothing and tennis shoes, they started up the bu...
Tony Barton and I returned to the Quebrada Huaguruncho after a two-year absence. Our objective was the first ascent of the southwest face of Huaguruncho (5,730m), by the same line we had attempted in 2008 with Olly Metherell. Barton had also pr...
Mount Wilbur, Fairweather Group. Ken Loken flew David Jones, Clark Gerhardt, Craig McKibben and me from Juneau to Lituya Bay on May 19. We disembarked on a rocky beach near the snout of the North Crillon Glacier. A few hours of unpleasant toil thr...
The Burkett NeedleThe voyage of the celestial trampsby Lionel Daudet, Francetranslated by Marina HeuschUnbelievable! He is there, unmoving, having landed just next to us. His wings barely quiver on the cold, white snow. It is one of the first trac...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION New York, ShawangunksOn November 9, 1986, a man (36) fell 20 meters after his protection pulled on Grease Gun Groove (5.6). He fractured his femur. (Source: Tom Scheuer, Senior Ranger, Mohonk Preserve)(Editor’s ...
Torres del Brujo, El Condor. Elena Davila, Riccardo Redaelli, and I finally reached Santiago, Chile on December 20 after a long flight from Milan. Our goal was to open a new route in the Azufre River Valley, home of the extraordinary Torres del Br...
In January of 1978 I went to Patagonia with an expedition of the Morbengo Section of the Italian Alpine Club, having as our objective the northwest face of Fitz Roy. As we approached the mountain, however, we realized that the few days at our disp...
LOOSE ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grand SentinelThe Grand Sentinel is a 100 meter quartzite pillar on the north slopes of Pinnacle Mountain, and Sentinel Pass which joins it to the southwest corner of Mount Temple. On August 11, 1990, two ACC ro...
UNITED STATESCLIMBING ALONE, UNROPED, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 21, Gerald Myers (41), a member of a private expedition of four, was reported as overdue on a solo summit attempt of Mount...
Time Out for Glacier CircleMarguerite SchnellbacherWITH only ten more clays at our disposal, Sterling Hendricks, Polly Prescott, John Southard and I decided to go to Glacier Circle in the Selkirks. Due to the isolation of this section we would hav...
Huascarán Norte Tragedy. An Italian expedition had hoped to repeat the Casarotto route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. On August 8, Battistino Bonali and Giandomenico Ducoli fell to their deaths apparently from a height of about 6000 meters ...
HENRY AUGUSTUS PERKINS 1873-1959Henry Augustus Perkins was a man who distinguished himself in many endeavors. In the American Alpine Club he became our member of longest standing. For 56 years the Club was fortunate to have him enrolled on its ros...
The North Ridge of Mt. OwenMerrill McLaneTHE N. ridge of Mt. Owen is a formidable looking ridge whether it is seen from the floor of Jackson Hole near the vicinity of the Square G Ranch or from Lake Solitude. Rising out of Cascade Canyon, a massiv...
From July 13–18 Alexander Maximenja from Minsk, Belarus, climbed a new route on Parandas. His route is situated to the left of the line put up by the Odessa climbers, who were operating on the wall at the same time and who he met on the descent. M...
Long, Difficult Free ClimbingMax JonesIN RECENT YEARS the free-climbing level in the United States has risen dramatically, and, as always, climbers are looking for new places to test their skills. The small cliffs have long been the home of the ex...
1951-20062007Number of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedGeographicalDistrictsCANADA*Alberta5201421033British Columbia317119641Yukon Territory372877New Brunswick100Ontario37967Quebec311063East Arctic82...
Cerro Catedral, South Face. An eight-man team of the Croatian Alpine Association, the oldest in Yugoslavia, celebrated the 100th anniversary of the association with a two-month expedition to the Andes of central Argentina. After climbing the norma...
Peak of the Bella Coola. The Coast Range of British Columbia holds many untouched groups of peaks. Among these are the snowy summits just south of the Bella Coola Valley. These mountains have been visited in previous years by a very few and most o...
Gordoghan Zom III, Buni Zom Mountain. Nikolas Kroupis and I first went to the Buni Zom range in July 2002 without any knowledge of the terrain and the geography of the peaks. Two years later (May-June) our goal remained the same, to climb Buni Zom...