Seven Gables, The Golden Thread Arête. The north side of Peak 12,840', the northernmost point in the Seven Gables Massif, bears a strong resemblance to Temple Crag in the Palisades, 20 miles to the southeast. Six major buttresses and arêtes drop s...
Drangnag-Ri, First Ascent. Our expedition, the Norwegian 1995 Everest 10th Anniversary Expedition, was comprised of Pema Dorjee and Arne Naess (co-leaders), Stein Aasheim, Chris Bonington, Ola Einang, Odd Eliassen, Torger Fosse, Lhakpa Gyalu, Ming...
Three Fingers Mountain, West Ridge of North Peak. This enchanting mountain on the skyline east of Everett is always carefully watched by local climbers, because by regularly observing the vertical black cliff of the North Peak one can soon learn q...
Peaks in the Brujo Group. Seven members of the Club Andino Ran- cagua tackled unclimbed rock peaks of El Brujo group, situated in the Colchagua province, at the headwaters of the San José river. Between January 17 and 27, they climbed Los Dos Geme...
Fitz Roy, North Face, 1979. Guy Abert, Michel and Jean Afanassieff, Gilles Sourice and Jean Fabre made the first ascent of the north face of Fitz Roy. Despite bad weather, they transported supplies up the glacier to the foot of the face and ten da...
Fitz Roy, Super Couloir, 1978. Charlie Fowler and Mike Munger made the third ascent in rapid time of the Super Couloir of Fitz Roy early in 1978.
Attempt on Khinyang Chhish. Our expedition was comprised of 13 graduates or students from the Tokyo University Ski Alpine Club: Dr. Hirotsugu Shiraki, leader, Dr. Shingi Ishikawa, deputy leader, Kuniyuki Ito, Katsuji Shimoishizaka, Shoji Seki, Kei...
Wind River Peak, Northwest Face Climbs. In August Jim Olsen and I hiked 14 miles and crossed three rivers with 100-pound packs to get to the northwest-face cirque of Wind River Peak, where we climbed two beautiful walls. Our first objective, the “...
Dharamsura or White Sail. The third ascent of Dharamsura or White Sail (21,148 feet) in the Bara Shigri was made on May 31 by O. P. Sharma, G. S. Malia, Shamsher Singh, Naresh Bedi, Sherpa Ang Nima and two other Sherpas of an expedition of the Del...
Carás II, Southeast Face. Our expedition established two separate Base Camps in early July. [The Cayesh portion of the group of Jerry Gore and Terry Moore is covered elsewhere.] From the Laguna Parón Base Camp, Julian Fisher, Andy Warfield and I m...
The Painted Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. On May 3 Kris Walker and I completed the first ascent of the Painted Wall. The ascent of 2600 feet of vertical and overhanging rock ranks as my most extreme rock climb. The immensity of the wal...
Puscanturpa Norte, North Face. Our expedition was composed of Graziano Bianchi, leader, Corrado Brustia, Felice Boselli, Osvaldo Antonietti, Silvio Mondinelli, Gino Mora, Ambrogio Veronelli, Sergio Zambra, Mario Valsecchi and me. Bianchi was retur...
Tirich Mir, East Peak, Southeast Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Murray Foubister, leader, Doug Herchmer, Hamish Mutch, Ian Taylor, and me, and was partially supported by the Alpine Club of Canada. We set up Base Camp (11,750 feet) n...
P 5680 and Campa I, Cordillera Vilcanota. The Deutscher Alpenverein excursion took sixteen members into the range for ten days. Base Camp was below the Campa Pass. Unbelievably we had four days of bad weather. In snow and fog ten of us, Norbert Ga...
Aconcagua. On January 14, we were on top of Aconcagua. Our intention had been to do the Polish route, but a shortage of time, inflexibility of airline tickets and uncertainty of mules led us to do no more than the normal route. I was surprised to ...
Peaks on the Eastern Side of the Ruth Gorge. After four weeks in the Yosemite, Helmut Neswadba and I felt we had sufficient preparation for our Alaskan climbing. We were flown to the Ruth Glacier on June 30. Taking advantage of good weather, we at...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 13 April Patrick Kearns (19) became separated from friends halfway up the Yosemite Falls Trail and continued on alone. He attempted to return by a short cut via a chimney between the Royal Arches and Washingt...
Ama Dablam Attempt. The following participated in our expedition: Ted Brittsan, Ben De Han, Carl Root, Barbara Rumer, Michael Trotter, Dorothy Landeen and I as leader. Following 12 days of acclimatization, which took us from Lukla to Kala Patar an...
Chacraraju Este, En el Alto, el Viento sera Nuestra Recompensa, to summit ridge. Aymeric Clouet and I took two days to reach a camp under the face between the moraine and the glacier. This year the right moraine from Laguna 69 was the only safe ac...
Dhaulagiri. We climbed Dhaulagiri by the normal northeast ridge. We got to Base Camp at 4650 meters on April 5. There were many crevasses in the glacier going to Camp I at 5700 meters, which we established on April 10. Camps II and III were set up...