Bublimotin Attempts. Frenchmen Michel Fauquet, Robert Balestra, Marc Guiot and Henri Vincens had hoped to climb the fantastically steep southeast face of Bublimotin, which soars to about 6000 meters on the southern edge of the Batura-Pasu massif. ...

Broken Tooth, North Face Attempt. After crossing the bergschrund on the upper end of the Buckskin Glacier, Curt Haire and I** ascended the 800-foot, 45° snowfield to the base of a series of disconnected couloirs on the north face of the Broken Too...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS Alberta, Mount AndromedaTwo climbers had ascended Mount Andromeda and were descending via the Andromeda- Athabasca Col on July 31. Both climbers jumped across the bergschrund with crampon...

Annapurna, South Face Attempt. Catherine Destivelle and I were accompanied by photographer Pascal Tournaire. We hoped to climb a new route on the buttress to the right of the Bonington route. We hired two Sherpas to help carry loads to the bottom ...

Kaxkar, Tien Shan. Kaxkar (or Kashkar) rises to 6347 meters (20,824 feet) in China 15 kilometers south of Tomur (Pik Pobedy). Our expedition was composed of Hedeaki Naoi, Atsushi Miyatake, Yoshiko Miyatake (f), Hajime Goda, Hidenori Sakagami, Yuji...

FALL ON SNOW AND INTO CREVASSE, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Mt. HoodOn May 19, 1980, about 6:30 p.m., I was called from the 304th Air Force Reserve by Parachute Medic Harder. (Parachute Medics will be referred to...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAYColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, The BookOn June 28 at 1015, Dale Yang (31) fell while leading the first pitch of the J Crack (III, 5.9) on The Book formation. Yang’s belayer, Lance Polonbo, released the belay ...

Sistine Reality. The fourth lead was mine: the first and most prominent roof. Jonny Copp handed me the rack, raised his eyebrows, and wished me luck. As I entered the hollowed chamber beneath it, the sky and ground disappeared. I no longer could t...

Himlung Himal Attempt. Our party consisted of Steve Tenney, Bob Rosso, Kirk Bachman and me as leader. We had little information about the peak, knowing only that the summit had been reached once, by Japanese via the east ridge from the glacier abo...

Mount Jette, St. Elias Mountains. On July 6, R.A. Bindschadler, W.D. Harrison, C.F. Raymond and I made what we believe to be the first ascent of Mount Jette (8460 feet), boundary peak 177 in the St. Elias range between Alaska and the northwestern ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED–IMPROPER PLACEMENT New York, ShawangunksOn October 10,1986, a man (26) fell three meters from Matinee (5.10+) when all his nuts pulled out due to no directional. He suffered facial lacerations and a possible skull f...

Mount Kinabalu. On July 24, my daughter Helene, Dr. Karl Lengauer and his wife Bertl Lengauer and I climbed through the gorgeous jungle with rare and beautiful flora to the Laban Rata Hut. On July 25, we climbed in three hours to the highest point...

Rondoy Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Mark Richey and I attempted a direct new route on the west face of Rondoy (5883 meters, 19,301 feet) from the Quebrada Jahuacocha. We left our Camp on August 8 and spent six hours on the approach to the wall’s...

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The Club activities for the year included all the perennial club events: conducting week-day rock-climbing classes for the Physical Education Department during the fall and spring; carrying out rock-climbing trips ne...

Tupungato. Germans Josef Heinl, leader, Peter Vogler and Georg Peter Menz made a new route on Tupungato (21,490 feet) on January 3. They approached from Santa Clara, Argentina, and placed Base Camp below the northeast ridge of Yesera. On December ...

Early Winter Spires, South Spire West Face. The unclimbed wall on the west side of the highest of the Early Winter Spires had been bypassed by climbers until this summer when on July 10 Jim Madsen and I made a direct ascent from the talus and gras...

Nilkanta Tragedy. On September 30, six members of the Japanese expedition of Obihiro Bisutari Club of Hokkiado died on the northeast ridge of difficult Nilkanta. They were leader Yuichi Sasaki, Yuzuru Kobayashi, Yoshinori Wakabayashi, Haruo Takano...

Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Our group of 21 left Italy on July 20 and traveled by plane, helicopter and whale boat to reach the zone of operations on the 23rd. Ice packs prevented our getting to the original objective, the Umiamako Nuna...

Zion, Road Kill. It was reported that, while filming a video about big wall climbing, Jeff Lowe and his “student,” Scott Thompson, put up the route Road Kill (V 5.11 A4), a nine-pitch route on an 1,100-foot wall near the park’s west entrance. (Roc...

North Eagle Beak, Sierra National Forest, “Beak Job”. In June, Fremont Bainbridge, Simon King and I climbed a new route that lies to the right of Thunder Road (A.A.J., 1977) on the steeper north face. The five-pitch route follows the obvious ramp ...