Mount Kinabalu. On July 24, my daughter Helene, Dr. Karl Lengauer and his wife Bertl Lengauer and I climbed through the gorgeous jungle with rare and beautiful flora to the Laban Rata Hut. On July 25, we climbed in three hours to the highest point...
Rondoy Attempt, Cordillera Huayhuash. Mark Richey and I attempted a direct new route on the west face of Rondoy (5883 meters, 19,301 feet) from the Quebrada Jahuacocha. We left our Camp on August 8 and spent six hours on the approach to the wall’s...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The Club activities for the year included all the perennial club events: conducting week-day rock-climbing classes for the Physical Education Department during the fall and spring; carrying out rock-climbing trips ne...
Tupungato. Germans Josef Heinl, leader, Peter Vogler and Georg Peter Menz made a new route on Tupungato (21,490 feet) on January 3. They approached from Santa Clara, Argentina, and placed Base Camp below the northeast ridge of Yesera. On December ...
Early Winter Spires, South Spire West Face. The unclimbed wall on the west side of the highest of the Early Winter Spires had been bypassed by climbers until this summer when on July 10 Jim Madsen and I made a direct ascent from the talus and gras...
Nilkanta Tragedy. On September 30, six members of the Japanese expedition of Obihiro Bisutari Club of Hokkiado died on the northeast ridge of difficult Nilkanta. They were leader Yuichi Sasaki, Yuzuru Kobayashi, Yoshinori Wakabayashi, Haruo Takano...
Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Our group of 21 left Italy on July 20 and traveled by plane, helicopter and whale boat to reach the zone of operations on the 23rd. Ice packs prevented our getting to the original objective, the Umiamako Nuna...
Zion, Road Kill. It was reported that, while filming a video about big wall climbing, Jeff Lowe and his “student,” Scott Thompson, put up the route Road Kill (V 5.11 A4), a nine-pitch route on an 1,100-foot wall near the park’s west entrance. (Roc...
North Eagle Beak, Sierra National Forest, “Beak Job”. In June, Fremont Bainbridge, Simon King and I climbed a new route that lies to the right of Thunder Road (A.A.J., 1977) on the steeper north face. The five-pitch route follows the obvious ramp ...
Seven Gables, The Golden Thread Arête. The north side of Peak 12,840', the northernmost point in the Seven Gables Massif, bears a strong resemblance to Temple Crag in the Palisades, 20 miles to the southeast. Six major buttresses and arêtes drop s...
Drangnag-Ri, First Ascent. Our expedition, the Norwegian 1995 Everest 10th Anniversary Expedition, was comprised of Pema Dorjee and Arne Naess (co-leaders), Stein Aasheim, Chris Bonington, Ola Einang, Odd Eliassen, Torger Fosse, Lhakpa Gyalu, Ming...
Three Fingers Mountain, West Ridge of North Peak. This enchanting mountain on the skyline east of Everett is always carefully watched by local climbers, because by regularly observing the vertical black cliff of the North Peak one can soon learn q...
Peaks in the Brujo Group. Seven members of the Club Andino Ran- cagua tackled unclimbed rock peaks of El Brujo group, situated in the Colchagua province, at the headwaters of the San José river. Between January 17 and 27, they climbed Los Dos Geme...
Fitz Roy, North Face, 1979. Guy Abert, Michel and Jean Afanassieff, Gilles Sourice and Jean Fabre made the first ascent of the north face of Fitz Roy. Despite bad weather, they transported supplies up the glacier to the foot of the face and ten da...
Fitz Roy, Super Couloir, 1978. Charlie Fowler and Mike Munger made the third ascent in rapid time of the Super Couloir of Fitz Roy early in 1978.
Attempt on Khinyang Chhish. Our expedition was comprised of 13 graduates or students from the Tokyo University Ski Alpine Club: Dr. Hirotsugu Shiraki, leader, Dr. Shingi Ishikawa, deputy leader, Kuniyuki Ito, Katsuji Shimoishizaka, Shoji Seki, Kei...
Wind River Peak, Northwest Face Climbs. In August Jim Olsen and I hiked 14 miles and crossed three rivers with 100-pound packs to get to the northwest-face cirque of Wind River Peak, where we climbed two beautiful walls. Our first objective, the “...
Dharamsura or White Sail. The third ascent of Dharamsura or White Sail (21,148 feet) in the Bara Shigri was made on May 31 by O. P. Sharma, G. S. Malia, Shamsher Singh, Naresh Bedi, Sherpa Ang Nima and two other Sherpas of an expedition of the Del...
Carás II, Southeast Face. Our expedition established two separate Base Camps in early July. [The Cayesh portion of the group of Jerry Gore and Terry Moore is covered elsewhere.] From the Laguna Parón Base Camp, Julian Fisher, Andy Warfield and I m...
The Painted Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. On May 3 Kris Walker and I completed the first ascent of the Painted Wall. The ascent of 2600 feet of vertical and overhanging rock ranks as my most extreme rock climb. The immensity of the wal...