Neverseen Tower, attempts in 1999 and 2001. After a four-day trek from Karpat in the Miyar Valley, Fidel Casablancas, Enric Nadal, and I established base camp on September 13, 1999 at 4650m on the moraine of the Tawa Glacier, two hours walk from t...
Kagmara Attempt. Briton Glen Rowley and a companion attempted to climb Kagmara (5960 meters, 19,554 feet) by its north face. They reached 5500 meters on November 12.Elizabeth Hawley
Climbing and Hiking in Ecuador. Bob Rachowiecki. Bradt Enterprises, Cambridge, 1984. 160 pages, 9 black and white illustrations, 21 sketch maps, color map. $10.95.
Romantic Switzerland, by Walter Schmid. 8vo., 50 pages, including 20 color plates from old prints. Berne: Hallwag, 1952. Price, Sw. Fr. 4.This fascinating little book, issued in English edition, presents Switzerland as mirrored in the literature a...
Peaks in Jurm Valley, Wakhan. The expedition of the Italian Alpine Club’s Padua section was composed of Paolo Lion, Professor Alfredo Dal Santo, Dr. Ugo Quintily, Vittorio Lazzarino, Dr. Elide Veronese and me as leader. Base Camp was set up at 14,...
Nemjung Attempt. An expedition of six British climbers led by Peter Hudd also had a permit for Himlung and arrived at Base Camp more than two weeks after the Japanese mentioned above had left theirs. Hudd readily agrees that Niwa could well be cor...
A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range, by Leigh Ortenburger. Illustrated by Eldon Dye. San Francisco: The Sierra Club, 1956. ix, 159 pages; ills.; maps and diagrams. Price $3.00.In this long-awaited guide to the Wyoming Tetons, Leigh Ortenburger ha...
On February 15, Joseph Bohlig (52) from Kelso fell into the crater at about 1:00 p.m. A veteran climber on his 69th trek up the mountain, Bohlig was posing for a picture about five feet from the crater’s edge when the snow beneath him collapsed.Hi...
LEO FRANK deSAUSSURE 1930-1987Frank deSaussure passed away during October of 1987 to the regret of all who knew him. A resident of Oceanside, California, he was an engineer and writer by profession. He is survived by his wife Valeria.His mountaine...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn August 13, 1993, CR (27) was returning via the Owen-Spalding route from a successful climb of the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. At 1230 he was descending steep ...
Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy, Tien Shan. This region has only recently been open to foreigners. There were three Japanese parties that climbed Khan Tengri (6995 meters, 22,950 feet): five of the Japanese Workers Mountain Federation led by K. Kondo, ...
FALL ON ROCK, WET ROCK, HASTEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 29, Robert Logan (37) and Chris Weaver (25) were attempting the Culp-Bossier Route (III, 5.8) on Hallett Peak. While leading the second to last pitch around 1...
K2 attempt, 1991. After a long approach from Pakistan via Kashgar and Sughet Jangal, we eventually reached the tongue of the K2 Glacier on May 22, 1991. The camels withdrew and we established Depot Camp. We were Romano Benet, Alberto Busattini, Fi...
Bookmark Pinnacle, Between The Sheets, Lumpy Ridge. In June Bill Wylie and I made the first ascent of Between The Sheets (II, 5.11d). The route follows the thin crack on the wall just left of Fantasy Ridge but right of Sidewinder Cracks. Two bolts...
Colorado, Ellingwood Arête, Crestone Needle—On August 15, Charles Dotter (38) and his wife were climbing the Ellingwood Arête. Climbing conditions were good. They had proper equipment, including one rope (120 feet of 7/16 inch, nylon). They climbe...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mt. McKinleyAI Aaporta and Josef Carmichael (age unknown) were near the top of the couloir on the West Rib about 13,000 feet on May 29 when they were swept off the route by an avalanche which carried them 1500 feet down the route ...
Num Themga and Other Peaks, Losar Valley, Western Spiti. The aim of “Spiti Adventure— 1994” was to climb in the Losar valley, where 14 peaks over 5900 meters rise above the Suvita Nala. The highest is Karcha Parbat (6271 meters). Joss Lynam and pa...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Mount RobsonK.G. and M.J. (both 19) were in a party of four climbers who were camped near the Dome, a feature near the base of the Kain Face on Mount Robson. They left their ba...
Kwangde Lho, north face in winter. In January 2008 Vladimir Belousov and Alexander Novikov made a calendar-winter ascent of Kwangde Lho (6,187m) via a new route on the Hungo face. The Russians’ original aim was a line between the Breashears-Lowe D...
Accidents. On May 3, a large British group was descending the West Rib. At 14,800 feet, one member slipped and fell 800 feet, sustaining serious head injuries. The group’s CB radios were set to broadcast on a frequency not monitored by Base Camp, ...