Tupungato, South Face Variant. A 20-man expedition of the Padova section of the Club Alpino Italiano, led by Gastone Scalco, attempted from the Argentine side the unclimbed east ridge of Tupungato. Deep snow forced the group to abandon this side i...
Fitz Roy, First Ascent by a Woman, 1978. The Californian route on Fitz Roy was climbed in early 1978 by three South Africans, Jerry Linke, Eckhard Druschke and his wife Romy. She was the first woman to make this climb.
Colorado Mountain Club Expedition to Cordillera Blanca. In our first overseas expedition, 41 people went to the Cordillera Blanca. Base Camp was at the head of the Quebrada Honda, the longest valley on the west side of the range, above Vicos. Duri...
Kwangde, North Face Winter Ascent. From November 28 to December 3 David Breashears and I made the first ascent of the north face of Kwangde (6194 meters, 20,323 feet) above the village of Hungo. The face is 4500 feet high and comprised of tongues ...
This incredibly bad idea originated years ago on spring break, when some friends and I got in way over our heads on Rodeo Queen. While freezing our butts off, we noticed this amazing gendarmed ridge on the Sentinel, with Birdbeak Spire being...
Diran or Minapin. This expedition of the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation was led by Ryuichi Kodani and consisted of Mitsugi Koyama, Mikio Nakayama, Shinichi Hotta, Naoki Takada, Yuzuru Tsuchimori, Tadashi Takahashi, and Dr. Sokichi Saito. A two-ma...
Squaretop. Renato Casarotto and I climbed a route on the east face of Squaretop in early July. Though it probably was a first ascent, we did find some old gear on the first couple of pitches. We did 13 pitches of free climbing up to 5.11. The over...
P 20,130. A ladies’ expedition was organized by Pathikrit of Calcutta which had P 20,130, called “Lalana” by them, as its objective. They left Manali on August 5 and got to Base Camp at 12,700 feet on the Chandra River, north-northeast of the snou...
Mt. Gunnar Naslund, Uncle Gunny's Weight-Loss Program; Mt. Huxley, first ascent. On April 22 Carlos Buhler and I were flown onto a spur of the Barnard Glacier below the unclimbed 3,000' east face of Mt. Gunnar Naslund (Peak 12,659', located 10-15 ...
Yosemite. The Cathedral Spires. The first ascent of the higher spire was finally effected on April 15th, 1934, by Richard M. Leonard, Jules M. Eichorn and Bestor Robinson. This was the culmination of several attempts the previous autumn, and marks...
Rinrijirca, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of British climbers Martin Hair, David Hood, Roger Payne and me from New Zealand. We set up our first Base Camp on May 17 in the Santa Cruz valley at the end of Taullicocha a...
Mount Helen, North Face. Bob Beall, Bob Hritz and Jack Turner made the first ascent of the snow gully between Towers 1 and 2 in July. Climbing was on 1000 feet of hard snow of 45° to 50°.
Huayhuash Traverse Attempt. A very strong French team of leader René Desmaison, Michel Arizzi, Xaxier Chappaz, René Ghilini, Jacques Fouque and Christophe Profit had hoped to traverse the Cordillera Huayhuash from Rondoy over Jirishanca and other ...
Batura Attempt. Noburu Takenaka and Hirooh Komamiya tried to climb the south ridge of Batura (7785 meters, 25,540 feet) from the Muchichur Glacier. After establishing Camp III at 23,300 feet on August 16, Takenaka lost a crampon and they descended...
Karavashin Region, Various Ascents. After a frustrating visit to the neighboring Lailak region where poor weather stopped us from attempting any big objectives, Mark Pretty and I travelled to the superb granite towers of the Karavashin region. Her...
Cotrillane and Caltane, Cordillera Carabaya. Olaf Hartmann and Pete Barry climbed Cotrillane (c. 17,400 feet) by its northwest slopes in August and found a cairn on the summit. Hartmann made a solo ascent of Caltane (c. 17,060 feet) northwest of t...
Aconcagua, New Route on the West Face. The west face of Aconcagua is seen at advantage from the Plaza de Mulas. It is very wide and has room for many variants. After leaving the Plaza de Mulas, Argentines Daniel Alessio and Daniel Rodríguez placed...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY AND COMMUNICATIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn April 27,1985, on Old Man Mountain, Toby Cotter (30) was demonstrating rappel and belay techniques to two friends and was explaining the importance of mainta...
Santa Cruz Norte, west face attempt; Pyramide de Garcilaso, east face attempt. Jay Burbee (Canada), Michel van der Spek (Netherlands), and I (Canada) spent June in the Cordillera Blanca, where we began with an attempt on the unclimbed west face of...
P 7500 +, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Michael Rutter and I completed a first ascent on beautiful granite on P 7500+ (“Werewolf"). The top of this pinnacle lies 200 meters to the northwest of the number 29 on the D-2 Talkeetna quad. It is in the easter...