Changabang, north face and west ridge attempts. In August, Kester Brown, Craig Jefferies, Marty Beare, and I, all from New Zealand, with Adam Darragh from Australia, traveled to the Bagini Glacier to attempt the north face and the second ascent of...
Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. On May 10, Mike and Steve Marolt and Jim Gile climbed Pequeño Alpamayo (18,500’) in the Condoriri massif of Bolivia. Climbing conditions were perfect and the total climbing time base camp to base camp was approxim...
Mountain Prospect, by Scott Russell. 248 pages, with seven sketch maps and 46 illustrations. London: Chatto and Windus, 1946. 18/-.Scott Russell was a prisoner of war in Singapore for three and a half years. It was during this time—when, as he say...
PAUL MAURICE LEDOUX, JR.1944-1990It is hard to record the passing of a friend. Paul died on January 18, 1990 of complications from injuries sustained during a fall in the Needles of South Dakota on Labor Day weekend. He suffered back and leg injur...
A New Route Past the Bugaboo. The following note has been received from R. C. Hind :“Climbing with the guidebook in my pocket is not a practice I indulge in. This omission, together with some misunderstanding during a discussion that Rex Gibson an...
Kanchenjunga, North Face. Dr. Igor Miko, Ján Piroh, František Dostál, Andrej Belica, Jozef Just, Ján Obuch, Jozef Psotka, Ján Provzník, František Piacek, Jaromír Stejskal, Vlado Tatarka, Peter Valovic, Ludovít Záhoranský, Marián Zat***ko and I as ...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount Thompson, West RidgeOn September 17, two climbers had completed an ascent of Mount Thompson via the West Ridge and decided to rappel down the route instead of down-climbing the adjacent East Rid...
Shahkangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, southeast ridge, west summit; Pt. 6,210m, southwest ridge; Pt. 6,390m, west ridge; all first official ascents. Our team from Imperial College London approached the Shahkangshan Range from the south, via Saga. The na...
Take the Long Way HomeThe first climb in Baffin Island’s super-remote Buchan Gulf.Stefan GlowaczWe should have been content. For days we had been climbing a wall that rose more than 600 meters from the frozen sea on the east coast of Baffin Island...
The War in the Alps. This has proceeded according to our prediction (A.A.J. v, 441), and for the first time Allied forces cut the perimeter of the main chain. The way for this was paved by the 10th Division’s action on Mt. Belvedere in January, fo...
Colorado, 1983. About 10 miles west of Colorado Springs at Green Mountain Falls, Harrison Dekker climbed Sex Axe (50 feet, 5.12a), an overhanging crack starting as thin fingers and gradually widening to fists. On the main cliff below Sex Axe, Bob ...
GEORGE HUBERT WILKINS1888-1958Our Honorary Member, Sir Hubert Wilkins, died on December 1, 1958, and with his passing the Club, in concert with many groups and individuals, has lost a true friend. Science and Arctic development have felt the loss ...
Makalu, West Face, Attempt. I tried to climb solo Makalu’s west face, one of the biggest problems in the Himalaya. Our team comprised Taeko Nagao, Base Camp manager, Hiroshi Aota, four t.v. staff, and me as leader and climbing member. We establish...
California, Yosemite National Park, Dana Glacier. On 20 July, Eden Smith, Forest Follette, Ron Follette and a friend hiked to the top ofMt. Dana. None was an experienced climber. There was no thought of doing any difficult climbing. While explorin...
Elephant’s Perch, free ascents. During the summer I realized the free-climbing potential on the Elephant’s Perch. A number of old aid routes, created on perfect granite in the 1970s and 80s, had not been free climbed. The Seagull, a nice 5.10 A3 l...
NERVOUS BREAKDOWNAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 12, 1982, a seven-member Fantasy Ridge guided party (led by Michael Covington) established a camp on the Peters Glacier to climb the Northwest Buttress of Mount McKinley.During the night of June 13, A...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchHenry Clardy (41) was planning on climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on the south side of the mountain...
Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals. “Back in the saddle,” I mused, as Andy Donson and I took aim at a line across from Balanced Rock Overlook. Yet saddle sores remained several months later. Blackened and battered, I harbored the memory with ...
EQUIPMENT TESTINGThe Oregon section during 1965 has instituted a testing program of equipment. The following table presents their data obtained in the field using a Dillon Dynamo meter and an anchored “come-a-long” device to apply the force. In ex...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESBritish Columbia, Kamloops Area, Marble CanyonOn May 7, 1983, Bob Boonstra (32) fell while climbing at Marble Canyon with three companions, Simon Fitzsimmons (17), Amund...