Spanish Expedition to West Greenland. An expedition of the Unió Excursionista de Catalunya was composed of Ramó Barceló, Joan Freixas, Jaime Farreras, Antonio Rañé, Carlos Romero, Victor Villa- grasa, Vicente Primo, Carlos Ortiz and Juan Merino. T...
Phari Lapcha (6,017m), northeast face, Independence Day. From November 8 to 10 Andrzej Sokolowski, Przemek Wojcik, and I made the first ascent of the central couloir on the 1,000m northeast face of Phari Lapcha.In the 11 p.m. darkness, belaying at...
High Worlds of the Mountain Climber, photographs by Bob and Ira Spring. Text by Harvey Manning. Seattle: Superior Publishing Co., 1959. 142 pages; numerous color and black and white photographs. This book is an introduction to the mountains of wes...
Kerckhoff Dome, “Pinup." In March Brian Cox, Ian and Darien Raistrick and I made a new route on the south face of Kerckhoff Dome. We began on a slabby wall directly beneath a gaping chimney high on the wall above. About 150 feet left of “Centerfol...
Twin Brothers, Levels of Doom, and Isaac, Middle Earth. It was reported that Amanda Tarr and Eric Rasmussen put up a new 14-pitch line, Levels of Doom (VI 5.9 A3+), to the right of Peyote Dreams on the Twin Brothers, in late September. In late Nov...
Devils Tower, The Window. In August, Pete Robinson, of Fort Collins, Colorado, joined me in an attempt to climb the "Window” of Devils Tower. This is a 300-foot high recess in the east face of the Tower. It had been attempted twice before. Rain fe...
FALL/SLIP ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO HARD HAT Oregon, Mount Hood, Southside RouteOn January 17, 1994, Kurt Pothast (20), Mike Bell (19), David Pardue (30), Tim Park (17), and Ron Hatfield (17) were climbing Southside Route on Mount Hood. It...
San Valentin Massif, North Peak. It was reported that a Spanish team of Pedro Antonio Ortega, Angel Ortiz, Bruno and Cesar Perez de Tudela climbed a 300-meter route on the North Peak. The route involved a succession of short rock buttresses at Gra...
Chiquito Dome, Mammoth Pool Reservoir, “Archline”. In May, 1979 Conrad van Bruggen and I climbed a new route that starts from a large flake just left of Jigsaw Puzzle (A.A.J., 1979). From the top of the flake, go past a bolt and cross a very thin ...
Michael Minaret, West Ridge, The Crescent, Previously Unreported. After the Minaret Traverse and the South Face of Clyde, the West Ridge (IV 5.8) is the longest route in the Minarets. It was first climbed by Lynn Bowering and me. Approach via Nort...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE— Wyoming, The Tetons. Joe Burlingham (30) was climbing on the east slopes of Teewinot with Gary Lepard, David Weathers and Lewis Wren. He slipped on the snow and slid approximately 150 feet, then cr...
Sierra Buttes, Sea Lion Buttress, 1981. The Sierra Buttes may deserve more attention from climbers. In May 1981 Joe Kiskis, Tim Butler and I climbed the northwest buttress of the highest tower in the southern group that is prominent from Highway 4...
Wyoming, Grend Teton National Park, Grand Teton (2)— On August 9, a guided party led by Robert French (25) and Peter Lev (20) were descending die summit block of the Grand Teton. The weather was clear and the climbing conditions were excellent.The...
Towers near Shiprock. During the spring of 1968 several of the prominent towers around the base of Shiprock were climbed for the first time. To protect the unique character of Shiprock, these towers have been given nautical names. Thus, the great ...
Theogiri, First Ascent. On October 26, Peter Papas and I completed what is probably the first ascent of P 5953 in the Kusum Kanguru massif of Nepal. This is the peak just south of the main summit as marked on the Shorong-Hinku Schneider map. Our a...
Half Moon Peak, West Face. One of the last unclimbed faces in the Washington Pass area, the slabby west face of Half Moon, on Kangaroo Ridge, was climbed by Tom Stewart and me on September 11. A total of 33 pitons were used, all being for safety e...
AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW AND ROCK, POOR POSITION–UNSAFE CONDITIONSBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount BurgessOn April 21, a party of two had ascended the south-facing, avalanche-prone slopes of Mount Burgess. The day was very warm, resultin...
Nevado del Plomo, Southwest Ridge. A 21-man expedition including members of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago, and Liceo (high school) J. V. Lastarria, Santiago, approached the border peaks with Argentina by entering the Barriga valley and crossi...
Nevado Satelite, New Route. Matež Kramer and Miha Valic climbed a new route on Nevado Satelite, Ražikža smer (V+, 270m) in the northern part of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz on September 17. They reported good granite. The route, which took them thre...
K2, Second Ascent. Thanks to previous expeditions, such as the Americans’ and Italians’, we were able to make the second ascent of K2 and we climbed on the strong shoulders of those predecessors. Also Dr. Charles Houston, Robert Bates, Fritz Wiess...