Sierra Buttes, Sea Lion Buttress, 1981. The Sierra Buttes may deserve more attention from climbers. In May 1981 Joe Kiskis, Tim Butler and I climbed the northwest buttress of the highest tower in the southern group that is prominent from Highway 4...
Wyoming, Grend Teton National Park, Grand Teton (2)— On August 9, a guided party led by Robert French (25) and Peter Lev (20) were descending die summit block of the Grand Teton. The weather was clear and the climbing conditions were excellent.The...
Towers near Shiprock. During the spring of 1968 several of the prominent towers around the base of Shiprock were climbed for the first time. To protect the unique character of Shiprock, these towers have been given nautical names. Thus, the great ...
Theogiri, First Ascent. On October 26, Peter Papas and I completed what is probably the first ascent of P 5953 in the Kusum Kanguru massif of Nepal. This is the peak just south of the main summit as marked on the Shorong-Hinku Schneider map. Our a...
Half Moon Peak, West Face. One of the last unclimbed faces in the Washington Pass area, the slabby west face of Half Moon, on Kangaroo Ridge, was climbed by Tom Stewart and me on September 11. A total of 33 pitons were used, all being for safety e...
AVALANCHE, FALL ON SNOW AND ROCK, POOR POSITION–UNSAFE CONDITIONSBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount BurgessOn April 21, a party of two had ascended the south-facing, avalanche-prone slopes of Mount Burgess. The day was very warm, resultin...
Nevado del Plomo, Southwest Ridge. A 21-man expedition including members of the Club Andino de Chile, Santiago, and Liceo (high school) J. V. Lastarria, Santiago, approached the border peaks with Argentina by entering the Barriga valley and crossi...
Nevado Satelite, New Route. Matež Kramer and Miha Valic climbed a new route on Nevado Satelite, Ražikža smer (V+, 270m) in the northern part of the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz on September 17. They reported good granite. The route, which took them thre...
K2, Second Ascent. Thanks to previous expeditions, such as the Americans’ and Italians’, we were able to make the second ascent of K2 and we climbed on the strong shoulders of those predecessors. Also Dr. Charles Houston, Robert Bates, Fritz Wiess...
Tupungato, South Face Variant. A 20-man expedition of the Padova section of the Club Alpino Italiano, led by Gastone Scalco, attempted from the Argentine side the unclimbed east ridge of Tupungato. Deep snow forced the group to abandon this side i...
Fitz Roy, First Ascent by a Woman, 1978. The Californian route on Fitz Roy was climbed in early 1978 by three South Africans, Jerry Linke, Eckhard Druschke and his wife Romy. She was the first woman to make this climb.
Colorado Mountain Club Expedition to Cordillera Blanca. In our first overseas expedition, 41 people went to the Cordillera Blanca. Base Camp was at the head of the Quebrada Honda, the longest valley on the west side of the range, above Vicos. Duri...
Kwangde, North Face Winter Ascent. From November 28 to December 3 David Breashears and I made the first ascent of the north face of Kwangde (6194 meters, 20,323 feet) above the village of Hungo. The face is 4500 feet high and comprised of tongues ...
This incredibly bad idea originated years ago on spring break, when some friends and I got in way over our heads on Rodeo Queen. While freezing our butts off, we noticed this amazing gendarmed ridge on the Sentinel, with Birdbeak Spire being...
Diran or Minapin. This expedition of the Kyoto Mountaineering Federation was led by Ryuichi Kodani and consisted of Mitsugi Koyama, Mikio Nakayama, Shinichi Hotta, Naoki Takada, Yuzuru Tsuchimori, Tadashi Takahashi, and Dr. Sokichi Saito. A two-ma...
Squaretop. Renato Casarotto and I climbed a route on the east face of Squaretop in early July. Though it probably was a first ascent, we did find some old gear on the first couple of pitches. We did 13 pitches of free climbing up to 5.11. The over...
P 20,130. A ladies’ expedition was organized by Pathikrit of Calcutta which had P 20,130, called “Lalana” by them, as its objective. They left Manali on August 5 and got to Base Camp at 12,700 feet on the Chandra River, north-northeast of the snou...
Mt. Gunnar Naslund, Uncle Gunny's Weight-Loss Program; Mt. Huxley, first ascent. On April 22 Carlos Buhler and I were flown onto a spur of the Barnard Glacier below the unclimbed 3,000' east face of Mt. Gunnar Naslund (Peak 12,659', located 10-15 ...
Yosemite. The Cathedral Spires. The first ascent of the higher spire was finally effected on April 15th, 1934, by Richard M. Leonard, Jules M. Eichorn and Bestor Robinson. This was the culmination of several attempts the previous autumn, and marks...
Rinrijirca, Southeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of British climbers Martin Hair, David Hood, Roger Payne and me from New Zealand. We set up our first Base Camp on May 17 in the Santa Cruz valley at the end of Taullicocha a...