Giri-Giri boys Fumitaka Ichimura, Ryo Masumoto, and Takaaki Nagato made the first ascent of the east face of Daddomain, although the three originally planned a direct ascent of the imposing east face of Mt. Edgar (6,618m). After setting up...
Royal Tower, Arizona Highways, New Route, and Various Activity. John Mattson, Josh Zimmerman and I had originally started a route on the southeast face of the Royal Tower in June, 1999, calling the first seven pitches The Jester. On June 20, Matts...
Yushu, Kunlun, Qinghai. Yushu (5933 meters, 19,466 feet) is a sacred peak at 35°45'N, 93°41'E on the west side of the Kunlun Pass between Xining and Lhasa. We Japanese women, Sachiko Sawada, Haruyo Ichikawa, Haruko Tsujino and I as Japanese leader...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, FALLING ROCK North Carolina, Hanging Rock State ParkThis account combines two accidents on the same route.In September 1980, Karl Pfefferkorn (19) was climbing a route called Capitol Staircase on Moores Wall when he f...
RAPPEL ERROR – SLACK IN ROPE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Twin OwlsOn June 25 Todd Burke had led the first pitch of Organ Pipes (II, 5.6) on the Twin Owls formation. He then pulled the rope up through all pieces of protecti...
The Blacksmiths. The steep wall between Cheap Shot and Dry Hard has been the scene of aborted aid attempts due to loose rock and massive roofs. In fall 2005 and spring 2006, Jared Ogden and I tried to find a free variation, but were unable to forc...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia Icefields, Mount AthabascaOn June 9, B.M. and N.Z. climbed Mount Athabasca via a variation of the standard North Glacier Route. They opted to descend the standard “ramp” route. The par...
Himal Chuli Attempt. A six-man Polish expedition led by Tadeusz Piotrowski attempted Himal Chuli (7893 meters, 25,895 feet) by its unclimbed south ridge. The porters quit on April 12 and so the march-in took three weeks. Base Camp was established ...
Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. A 15-member Japanese expedition to the east ridge of Manaslu was led by Seigo Matsushima. On October 27, Shinja Furukawa, Hiroshi Kokub, Hitoshi Kudo and Ichigi Kudo reached 6500 meters and descended. The next day Ichi...
Mt. Elbrus, Ascent, and New Year Millennium Celebration. During the New Year, a team from Moscow led by Maxim Shakirov and comprising Juri Saveliev, and Sergey Larin, together with Igor Cheresku (leader of Shkhelda Emergency Rescue service), greet...
Blackburn. Teruo Takeda and Yoshiaki Fujii of the Sado Alpine Club were landed on May 23 on the Nabesna Glacier at 6500 feet. They placed Camp I in the west col at 10,000 feet on the 25th. Camp II was placed on May 28 at 13,125 feet. They climbed ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL TO GROUND New York, ShawangunksOn August 30, 1986, a man (23) leading Jean (5.9) was being lowered when the highest piece of protection, a nut, pulled. He droped six meters to the ground, resulting in a possible ankle f...
Everest, Attempt to Traverse the Peak by the West and Northeast Ridges. On September 7, Frenchmen Jean Afanassieff, Bernard Prud’homme, Louis-Paul Chantelat, Eric Escoffier, Dr. Jean-Louis Etienne, Xavier Fargeas, Bruno Gal- let, Serge König, Amer...
Peterli and the Mountain, by Georgia Engelhard. 40 pages, 8 illustrations by Madeleine Gekiere. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1954. Price, $2.25.This is an unusual mountaineering story, being the adventures of Peterli, a fine re...
Stortind Southwest Ridge, Norway. There is a complete article on this climb in Norway earlier in this Journal.
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITION California, Yosemite ValleyOn August 12, 1988, Jeff Kasten (25) and Glenn Pinson (23) intended to begin their climb of the regular route on Half Dome, using Tom Rollins (23) to help carry gear to the base. ...
Die Schweiz in Römischer Zeit, by Felix Staehelin. 8vo; xvi + 659 pages, with 205 photographic illustrations and plans. Basel: Benno Schuabe & Co. Verlag, 1948. Price Sw. Fr. 31.20.This is the third revised edition of a monumental work first i...
Cerro Ladrillero, first ascent. Patagonia is a land that challenges you to be patient, where waiting for the window is key and, because of that, waiting becomes a skill that is useful for getting prepared for when the opportunity comes. This we di...
Washington—near Camp Muir; Mt. Ranier National Park: On August 16, 1952, John Burkhart (20), of Mason, Illinois fell into a crevasse on the snowfield below Camp Muir. He was hiking to Camp Muir with several companions. Normally, this lower snow fi...
Cordillera Huayhuash. The Cordillera Huayhuash has been practically unvisited since 1987, but interest is now being revived due to the decline of the activities of the Sendero Luminoso. Doris Walter and her French party unsuccessfully attempted th...