FALL ON SNOW-SKI MOUNTAINEERING, INADEQUATE EQUPMENT FOR THE CONDITIONSOregon, Mount Hood, Reid GlacierOn May 6, four experienced climbers were circumnavigating Mount Hood (crossing Yokum Ridge) at the 7,600-foot elevation when telemark skier Jere...
Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent. Jerzy Kukuczka and Leszek Czok reached the summit of Dhaulagiri by the north face on the 1984-5 winter season, but Czok got frostbitten toes as the result of a bivouac made on the night after reaching the summit when the...
Northern Peaks. The northern section of the range has been little climbed and several unclimbed peaks still remain. On July 27th and 28th, 1953, Leigh Ortenburger and Bill Buckingham made the first ascents of the unnamed peaks, 10,950 feet and 11,...
Waterfall Climbs, Canadian Rockies. On March 22,I made what is perhaps only the second on-sight solo of the formidable Canadian Rockies’ alpine waterfall “Slipstream,” taking four hours for the Grade V ascent. Marc Twight made the first on-sight s...
FALL ON ROCK, BROKEN ROCK FLAKE Alaska, Mount JohnsonOn July 12, 1989, Seth Shaw (31) and Bob Ingle were attempting a new route on the East Buttress of Mount johnson in the Ruth Gorge. They were about 300 meters above the Ruth Glacier by 1600. Sha...
ALLAN BARD1952-1997Allan Bard died on July 5 from injuries sustained in a 200-foot fall while leading a climb of the Owen-Spalding Route on the Grand Teton in Wyoming.A 20-year resident of the Eastern Sierra and 15-year resident of Bishop, Allan w...
Broad Peak. Numerous ascents of Broad Peak by the normal route are now being made every year. Some are given in separate reports. See accounts by Josef Rakoncaj, Norman Dyhrenfurth, Gregorio Ariz and Tomo Cesen. Swiss led by Frank Tschirky and Ger...
Cutthroat Peak, “Portly Gentleman’s Route.” On August 28, Brian Buck and I left the North Cascades Highway 1.8 miles west of the Washington Pass scenic turnout, crossed State Creek and ascended steep alpine meadows as if heading for the west-ridge...
Pumari Chhish South and Yazghil Dome South Attempts. Our expedition had two objectives: to make the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South and to gather granite samples to determine the rate of rise of the Disteghil Sar region. After financial diffic...
Unnamed Peak 6184m, attempt. Situated northeast of Phabrang, this unnamed and unclimbed peak was unsuccessfully attempted during July and August by Yasutada Sawairi’s 12-member Japanese team. The expedition approached from Darcha on the Manali to ...
Dudh Kundari. A French expedition led by Dominique Mathieu Goudrier had hoped to climb Kanjiroba South but the difficulty of the approach was so great that they could not get there. They did climb Dudh Kundari (6014 meters, 19,731 feet).Elizabeth ...
Die Schneeberge Ecuadors. Marco Cruz. Eigenverlag, Nürnberg, 1983. 175 pages, 14 color and 53 black and white photographs, 30 maps and line drawings. DM 36.
Art in Switzerland, by Peter Meyer, translated with an introduction by Mary Hottinger. 8vo., 103 pages with many illustrations, some in color. London: Nicholson and Watson (Zürich: Spiegel Verlag), 1946. Price, Sw. Fr. 4.35.This is a small but com...
Kohe Urgunt and Other Peaks. The expedition of the Tegernsee section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was composed of Erika and Hans Ertle, Peter and Hans Gloggner, Peter Hoffmann, Josef and Klaus Öckler, Gerlinde Schirmer and Dr. Volker Schwenkgle...
Kang Guru. A five-man Japanese expedition successfully climbed Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by the southwest face to the west ridge. On September 22, leader Takashi Arai, Hirohisa Matsuyama, Akira Shimizu, Hiroshi Togawa and Sarki Norbu La...
The Conquest of Mount McKinley, by Belmore Browne. Foreword by Vilhjalmur Stefansson; introduction by Bradford Washburn. Illustrations by Belmore Browne and Bradford Washburn. New Edition. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1956. xxx, 381 pages; il...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, WEATHER - WHITEOUT CONDITIONS AND HIGH WINDS, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount Rainier, Camp MuirOn April 27, park climbing rangers, assisted by guides from International Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents International...
HERMANN ULRICHS 1902-1988Hermann Ulrichs was bom on August 3, 1902 in Alameda, California. His family had settled in the area in the mid-1800s. With the death of his mother when he was eleven and graduation from high school at fifteen, Hermann fou...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK Wyoming, Devil’s TowerOn August 23, 1993, at 0830, Nate Beckwith (21), David Haagensen (23) and Jung Soo (21) were climbing the first pitch of Soler (5.8+). Beckwith was belaying Haagensen, who, approximately 100 fee...
Khan Tengri Winter Attempt, Tien Shan, 1990-1. Americans Ace Kvala, John Faulkner and I, Frenchman Michel Fauquet and a strong team of eight Soviets led by Anatoly Mochnikov and Alexei Shustrov hoped to make the first winter ascent of Khan Tengri....