Chiquito Dome, Elegance. With some intentional vagueness, I report that Chris Vandiver and I climbed the south face of Chiquito Dome in November. For those who chance their way onto this fine route, there awaits a menagerie of climbing experiences...
Third Recess Peak, Northeast Buttress, Previously Unreported. Third Recess Peak is the unnamed peak on the right as you hike up into Third Recess. Lara Wilkinson and I climbed the Northeast Buttress (IV 5.10, 1,600') in June, 1994, in 11 pitches. ...
FALL ON SNOW—Wyoming, The Tetons. Brian White (30), Bradley Rich and David Tippets were descending from the Grand Teton on June 19. The party had climbed the Exum route to the summit and were descending the Owen Spaulding route, which had patches ...
Humdinger Dome. No Zukes follows a small, easily visible dihedral on a dome just southwest of P 9053. When the left-facing dihedral merged into a shallow groove, we climbed right past a bolt, left past a bolt up to the crack. From here Alan and I ...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton (1)—At 1:00 p.m. on June 25, Ralph Miller (26) reported to the Jenny Lake Ranger Station that his climbing partner, Dr. Philip O. Nice (42), of Hanover, New Hampshire, had suffered an attack of extre...
Vulture Peak. This dominant 600-foot pinnacle is located about ten miles southwest of Wickenburg. After a few days spent in preparing the route on the east face, in October 1967 Larry Treiber and I took two days on the actual climb with a bivouac ...
Hiunchuli, East Face, Terra Nostra. Tadej Golob, Dujan Polenik and Tomac Jeras climbed the 1200-meter Terra Nostra (ED VI+ A2) on the previously unclimbed east face of Hiunchuli (6441 meters) in October. Polenik and Jeras fixed ropes on the first ...
Cutthroat Peak, South Face of the South Buttress. Our route starting at the large obvious chimney above and left of the snowfield below the south face was first climbed by Steve Marts, Fred Stanley, and me. About 300 feet of enjoyable unroped clim...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDAlberta, Roche a Perdix, Drambuie DeamonOn December 16,1.R. attempted to solo climb Drambuie Deamon, a 95-meter water ice Grade 3 or 4 route, depending on the chosen finish for the climb. He had been climbing...
El Tapado and Other Peaks. The Asociación de Andinismo de La Serena sent a large expedition to the neighborhood of Cerro Tórtolas, in Coquimbo province. Besides performing several ascents to high peaks by standard routes, the 28 expedition members...
Cordillera Quimza Cruz, Various Ascents. In early August, Thomas Miyagawa, Andrew MacAllister and I set up a base camp around abandoned miners’ housing in the Ataroma valley. On August 10 we climbed the two lower peaks of the Garciela group, P.562...
Z8 and Z2, Zanskar Group, Ladakh. Our expedition consisted of my wife Silvia Metzeltin-Buscaini, Maurizio Gaetani, Lia Risari-Gaetani, Alda Nicora and me. We placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the Pensi La, southeast of Nun and Kun. On July 26 my...
Aconcagua, Polish Route. A Catalonian expedition under J.M. Molina that was attempting the Polish route in winter, managed to place two of its members on the summit on August 22. Skis were used from a height of 14,000 feet to some 200 feet below t...
Alto de los Leones, Southwest Pillar. Chileans Gino Casassa, Alejandro Izquierdo and Englishman Jim Lindsay made on January 17 the first ascent of the southwest pillar of this peak, one of the finest in Chile, belonging to the Juncal group, some 4...
Puscanturpa Group, Cordillera Huayhuash. A Swiss expedition, led by Christian Hauser and composed of Edwin Schelling, Julius Hensler, Heinz Gebauer, and Walter Schnyder, set up Base Camp on Juraukocha (lake). They made the first ascents of the fol...
Ama Dablam, Winter Attempt. Our expedition sought to make an alpine-style winter ascent of Ama Dablam. We were Kurt Krueger, Steve Risse, Steve Jorgenson, Dan Murphy and me with Mark Knaebe as Base Camp manager. After troubles recruiting enough po...
Mt. Majestic, Cracking the Emerald. In November Ryan Frost and I climbed Cracking the Emerald (IV/V 5.10 C1), a steep new six-pitch route on the southwest face of Mt. Majestic, in the Emerald Pools area. We ascended a striking corner near th...
Buni II and Gordoghan Zom. The Munich section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) sent Horst Schürer, leader, Rudi Berger, Alfred Koch, and Ernst Lainer to the Buni Zom group. All four climbed Buni II (20,079 feet) on July 25. Koch and Lainer climbed ...
Arrowhead, 1983. Steve Drake and I climbed the north face of Arrowhead on August 2,1983 probably not a new route but about which we find no previous record. We started 20 feet left of an obvious “X” marked by white intrusions. Three short, easy fi...
Mulkilla. Mulkilla (21,380 feet) was climbed on July 1 by all 17 members of the team from the National Defense Academy, Poona, led by Flight Lieutenant K. P. Venugopal. They included four officers and 13 cadets. The later were all under 19 years o...