Cerro Rincon, New Route, and Punta Amigos, First Ascent. It was November 27. Once more, the alarm clock rang at 3 a.m. After 15 days of continuous rain, we didn’t give ourselves much of a chance to climb another peak on this trip, even though we h...

Alaskan Climbs Appearing as Full Articles. Aside from the climbs reported here, the following are covered in complete articles: the east face of Mount Russell, Foraker’s Infinite Spur, the northwest face of Mount Hunter, the Eroica route on Hunter...

California, Parsons Peak, Yosemite National Park. On 8 October Frank Schreve (25) was leading a party on the slopes below Parsons Peak. Upon approaching a snowfield, he attempted to examine the terrain to see if it could be crossed safely. In so d...

SEIZURES–FAILURE TO INFORM GUIDES OF MEDICAL CONDITIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, West ButtressA Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. guided party led by Dave Hahn flew to the Kahiltna on June 28 for a climb of Mount McKinley. The nine c...

Kamet and Abi Gamin. An Indian team climbed both of these peaks. They set up Base Camp at 15,500 feet on September 2 and by September 28 had Camp V at 23,600 feet on Meade’s Col. The first two summit attempts failed. Finally Bachan Singh, S.S. Bis...

Mount Deborah, 1973. Unreported from 1973 was a traverse of the Alaska Range from the Black Rapids of the Delta to Yanert Station on the Alaska Railroad. It took us 34 days in May and June. We were Lonnie Chestnut, Bea Bigelow, Sue Criller, Ken Ir...

St. Elias Attempts. Three expeditions attempted to climb the southwest ridge of St. Elias, but none of them could reach the summit. In April, four climbers led by Tom Nickerson unsuccessfully made the attempt. They were followed on the same route ...

Cerro Torre, Southeast Ridge, attempt by fair means. In early February 2007 Josh Wharton and I emptied our bank accounts and traveled south. Our goal was to climb the Southeast Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre in the best style we could ima...

Iowa Mountaineers. In 1982 our membership exceeded 1000, scattered over some 35 states. Many of the courses and mountain camps again were offered for two hours of credit by the University of Iowa. Under Jim and John Ebert’s instruction, 85 members...

Hainabrakk East Tower, First Ascent. The married couples of Steve Schneider and Heather Baer, and Brian McCray and Roxanna Brock made the first ascent of Hainabrakk East Tower (ca. 19,024') from June 25-July 27 via the route For Better or for Wors...

Thamserku Attempts, 1988 and 1989. In the winter of 1988, Dr. Ed Farrar, Canadian Dan Culver and I attempted the second ascent of the west ridge of Thamserku. Although previous sightings and photos had shown a frozen snow arête leading to the summ...

Notchtop Mountain, East Face, Religion. Australian Keith Bell and I established this long excellent free climb on the highest part of the face in late August, 1973. We began (with a jump) in the left-most of three prominent roofed right-facing dih...

Everest, South-Col Post-Monsoon Attempts. Aside from the attempts noted separately, there were a number of expeditions on the route via the South Col that did not succeed in reaching the main summit. A primarily French expedition led by Denis Pivo...

FALL ON SNOW, DESCENDING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED,EXCEEDED ABILITIES, FATIGUE Washington, Mount ShuksanMidway through the Fisher Chimneys about 2000 the evening of July 3, 1988, five of the members of our party of eight were descending steep snow ...

Colorado Mountain Club. In May Carl Blaurock led a party of nine members into the “Four Corners Country” (Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah) and to the eastern Utah Indian reservations and national monuments. R. Murchison and Mrs. Murchison ...

Cerro La Paloma, Central Andes. La Paloma (4930 meters, 16,175 feet) has become perhaps the only Chilean mountain to have been ascended by all its possible angles. American Allen Steck and O. Espinoza, R. Gamboa and I, from Santiago, opened the la...

AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Dragontail PeakEric Simmonson (22) and his partner (22) left the parking lot at Colchuck Lake early on the morning of November 3 to climb Dragontail’s north face in a day. The pair climbed up high on the route but dec...

Trango Towers Attempts. Canadians Jim Brennan and Greg Foweraker and Americans Dan Cauthom, Greg Collum, Matt Kerns, Pat McNerthney and Mark Wilford and I established Base Camp on the Trango Glacier in late May. Like other expeditions, we had diff...

Trisul. The 1975 Seattle Garhwal-Himalaya Expedition was led by Michael Clarke; other members were Jan Balut, David Hambly, Ray Jewell, Carl Moore, Gordon Thomas and I. We traveled by bus through the gorges of the Alaknanda to Lata. There we met o...

P 12,380. This peak lies between Hunter and McKinley. On May 11, after two previous attempts and a barrage of rotten weather, Chuck Sink, Mal Ulrich and I ascended a large couloir on P 12,380’s south face and joined the southwest ridge at a col. S...