Kanchenjunga, North Face. Dr. Igor Miko, Ján Piroh, František Dostál, Andrej Belica, Jozef Just, Ján Obuch, Jozef Psotka, Ján Provzník, František Piacek, Jaromír Stejskal, Vlado Tatarka, Peter Valovic, Ludovít Záhoranský, Marián Zat***ko and I as ...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount Thompson, West RidgeOn September 17, two climbers had completed an ascent of Mount Thompson via the West Ridge and decided to rappel down the route instead of down-climbing the adjacent East Rid...
Shahkangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, southeast ridge, west summit; Pt. 6,210m, southwest ridge; Pt. 6,390m, west ridge; all first official ascents. Our team from Imperial College London approached the Shahkangshan Range from the south, via Saga. The na...
Take the Long Way HomeThe first climb in Baffin Island’s super-remote Buchan Gulf.Stefan GlowaczWe should have been content. For days we had been climbing a wall that rose more than 600 meters from the frozen sea on the east coast of Baffin Island...
The War in the Alps. This has proceeded according to our prediction (A.A.J. v, 441), and for the first time Allied forces cut the perimeter of the main chain. The way for this was paved by the 10th Division’s action on Mt. Belvedere in January, fo...
Colorado, 1983. About 10 miles west of Colorado Springs at Green Mountain Falls, Harrison Dekker climbed Sex Axe (50 feet, 5.12a), an overhanging crack starting as thin fingers and gradually widening to fists. On the main cliff below Sex Axe, Bob ...
GEORGE HUBERT WILKINS1888-1958Our Honorary Member, Sir Hubert Wilkins, died on December 1, 1958, and with his passing the Club, in concert with many groups and individuals, has lost a true friend. Science and Arctic development have felt the loss ...
Makalu, West Face, Attempt. I tried to climb solo Makalu’s west face, one of the biggest problems in the Himalaya. Our team comprised Taeko Nagao, Base Camp manager, Hiroshi Aota, four t.v. staff, and me as leader and climbing member. We establish...
California, Yosemite National Park, Dana Glacier. On 20 July, Eden Smith, Forest Follette, Ron Follette and a friend hiked to the top ofMt. Dana. None was an experienced climber. There was no thought of doing any difficult climbing. While explorin...
Elephant’s Perch, free ascents. During the summer I realized the free-climbing potential on the Elephant’s Perch. A number of old aid routes, created on perfect granite in the 1970s and 80s, had not been free climbed. The Seagull, a nice 5.10 A3 l...
NERVOUS BREAKDOWNAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 12, 1982, a seven-member Fantasy Ridge guided party (led by Michael Covington) established a camp on the Peters Glacier to climb the Northwest Buttress of Mount McKinley.During the night of June 13, A...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchHenry Clardy (41) was planning on climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on the south side of the mountain...
Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals. “Back in the saddle,” I mused, as Andy Donson and I took aim at a line across from Balanced Rock Overlook. Yet saddle sores remained several months later. Blackened and battered, I harbored the memory with ...
EQUIPMENT TESTINGThe Oregon section during 1965 has instituted a testing program of equipment. The following table presents their data obtained in the field using a Dillon Dynamo meter and an anchored “come-a-long” device to apply the force. In ex...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESBritish Columbia, Kamloops Area, Marble CanyonOn May 7, 1983, Bob Boonstra (32) fell while climbing at Marble Canyon with three companions, Simon Fitzsimmons (17), Amund...
MEXICOFALLING ROCK–DISLODGED ROCKMonterrey, El Potrero Chico, Space BoyzOn December 29, my climbing partner, Crockett Farnell, and I (Gordon Wright) were climbing the 11 -pitch route Space Boyz on the west side of El Potrero Chico, near Monterrey,...
Agyasol East. Our object was to climb either Agyasol or Shivling in the Kishtwar Himalaya, both unclimbed peaks of about 6200 meters (20,342 feet). The Kingston Polytechnic team had spent a long time in 1980 trying to approach Agyasol and finally ...
ELBRIDGE RAND HERRON 1902-1932On October 13, 1932, Elbridge Rand Herron, returning from India with an expedition that had attempted Nanga Parbat, made a day’s excursion to Cairo and climbed the Second Pyramid. He had done the difficult top part wi...
Mt. Roraima, German Route, and Bungle in the Jungle. In December, our team of Zac Barr, Corey Nielsen, Peter Mortimer, and photographer Ben Watkins traveled to Mt. Roraima to attempt to free climb the unrepeated aid line The Prow. The route follow...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The H.M.C. celebrated its 70th anniversary in 1994, which was an eventful year for the club. The recent trend of increasing campus interest in climbing has continued and was reflected in the swelling roles of membershi...