Huandoy Sur, Attempt on South Face. Although Don Whillans, leader, and the Scots David Bathgate, Ian MacEacheran and Brian Robertson arrived at Lima on May 27, a series of irritating delays prevented the release of our equipment from customs until...
Huaytapallana Karu. In late June Pete Barry, New Zealand, Frank Hepburn, Scot and I left for Lampa but by bus got only as far as Chilifruta, where the road was still closed from landslides caused by a severe earthquake in November, 1969. From dest...
On August 25, 2002, Becka Bracy and I intended to do the 5.8 East Chimney as a date climb. A date climb is when you climb something easy, so as to get in some climbing, while you still spend time with a girl. In this case, a lot more climbing than...
LOST CLIMBERS, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member mountaineering expedition, the Skin and Bones Expedition, from the Kan- sei Climbing Club (KCC) of Japan, failed to return from an attempt on the South Face of Mount McKinley. The thre...
FALL ON ROCK– INADEQUATE HAULING SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 2, Jeff (40) and Don (20) climbed the first two pitches of Zenyatta Mondatta (VI 5.7 A5) on El Capitan. They hauled most of their gear and returned to the Valley ...
Dhaulagiri, South Buttress Attempt. Our expedition of guide-teachers of the ENSA was composed of Anselme Baud, Pierre Blanc, Jean Cou- dray, Maurice Cretton, Charles Daubas, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot, Raymond Renaud, Jean-Paul Vion and me as lead...
“Three hundred days of storm and the other 65 not pleasant.”- Alberto De Agostini, describing the Cordillera Darwin Range after his 1913 attempt on Mt. Sarmiento.“You are raving mad to consider crossing the cordillera in its entirety.”- Steve Ogle...
Two years ago Yvon Chouinard discovered the remarkable potential of a 600-foot rock sitting modestly between El Capitan and the Three Brothers, a rock used as a training ground by the Park Service but largely ignored by others. Chouinard returned ...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake Area. On 16 August a large group of climbers from the Calgary Mountain Club, who had registered out, were making a descent down a snow filled couloir be-tween the Third and Fourth Peaks in the Valley of t...
SLIP ON SNOW and RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE Alaska, Mount HuntingtonOn April 16, 1983, John Tuckey (32) and Robb Kimbrough (28) flew to the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier to climb the East Face of Mount Huntington. On April 26, an advance base camp was ...
Hielo Patagonico Sur, North to South Traverse. Mostly unknown territory, the Hielo Patagonico Sur, 400 kilometers long by 80 kilometers wide, is the third-biggest ice plateau in the world. Its weather is the worst in the world and in the middle li...
Sentinel Rock, North Face. On July 5 and 6, Chuck Pratt and I established the seventh, though probably not the last, route on the narrow, vertically fractured north face of Sentinel Rock. We began in a jam-crack (about halfway between the beginnin...
The Northwest Face of Ama DablamVertical commitment in the Nepal Himalayaby Vanja Furlan, Planinska zveza Slovenijetranslated by Stanko KlinarI feel like crying as I watch Tomaz plowing toward the summit. The spell is broken when I find myself gas...
Mendenhall Towers, Rain, Heavy at Times; Rabbit Ears, Who Needs Cable? Over a 10-day period from June 18 to 27 Ryszard Pawlowski (Poland), Dave Sorric, and I put up a new route on the north face of the Mendenhall Towers (6,980') in the Juneau Icef...
Eiger by Jörg Lehne and Peter Haag. French translation by Monique Bittebierre. Paris: Hatier. 1967.Perhaps by the time this review appears, Eiger will have been translated into English. It ought to be, for it tells a great story and tells it well....
Koh-i-Marcheck and Other Peaks, Central Hindu Kush. An expedition of the Imperial College, London, approached via the Bashgal and Shkurigal valleys and climbed east of the region where the Scots were. On August 22, I. Staples and R. Wroot made the...
Canadian Rockies, summary. Ironically, the first significant ascent of the summer of 2003 was an alpine ice climb. These are, after all, the Canadian Rockies, where summer is but a brief interlude in the long, long winter. In late June the young C...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face. We made the seventh ascent of Hidden Peak by a partially new route, the north face, when Michel Dacher, Sigi Hupfauer and I got to the summit (8068 meters, 26,470 feet) on July 22. Base Camp was established ...
WILLIAM F. UNSOELD 1926-1979 On Sunday afternoon, March 4, Willi Unsoeld and one of his students, Janie Diepenbrock, were killed in a slab avalanche on Mount Rainier. A few days later more than 800 people came together to weep and to laugh; to...
Our five-pitch variation to the Northwest Face of Warrior I stemmed from an attempt to gain the stunning right-facing dihedral at the top of the tower while avoiding the 5.11b R traverse on the existing route. Last July we cleaned many loose...