Chacraraju Este Attempts. On July 18, Slovenes Pavle Kozjek and Gregor Kresal tackled the unclimbed east face of Chacraraju Este. The conditions were bad and so they were forced to bivouac after 500 meters. The next day, they climbed another 200 m...
YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942–256–231–019–2196047–464–1237–819–419...
Everest, Southwest Face, Winter Attempt, 1991-2. Sixteen Japanese climbers with 25 Sherpas to help them were led by Kuniaki Yagihara. Their goal was to make the first winter ascent of the formidable southwest face, which had previously been ascend...
Korzhenievskovo Valley, Various Ascents. From July 2 to August 22, Rowland Barker, Steven Carter, Hamish Downer, Mark Stevenson and I visited the Korzhenievskovo Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan. We attempted ten peaks and reached the summit of seven...
Southwestern Mountaineers. During 1957, the Southwestern Mountaineers carried out a program of intensive rock climbing in the Organ Mountains of New Mexico. While most of the major peaks had been climbed already, many new routes were pioneered and...
Aconcagua. Four instructors of ski school at Portillo, the Austrians H. Helmstreit, E. Marbreiter and H. Podlipnik, and the American T. Lane, made a winter ascent of Aconcagua, on Sept. 29. They found very little snow and were not able to use thei...
Volcán Colorado, Puna de Atacama. In December the Volcán Colorado (18,838 feet) was climbed by Antonio Beorchia Nigris, who found ceremonial sites from pre-Columbian times.Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
Sharkfin Tower from the West Notch. A new route was made on June 20 on Sharkfin Tower, which lies between Forbidden and Boston Peaks. The first ascent had been made from the notch to the east, and the south face has also been climbed. This route i...
Index Town Wall, Town Crier Route. A spell of dry weather at Christmas in 1965 prompted Seattle rock climbers to seek out a direttissima on this large cliff behind the town of Index, less than an hour’s drive from Seattle. At various times Eric Bj...
Sakhe Anjuman and Other Peaks. The 11 members of the Studenckie Kolo Prezewodnikow Gorskich SZSP-Krakow were led by Witold Winiarski. They drove from Kabul via Kunduz and Farkhar to Warsaj and walked via Petaw, Dan-i-Ab and Kotale Warsaj to the An...
Chaukhamba II Tragedy. An Italian expedition hoped to climb Chaukhamba II (7077 meters, 23,220 feet). The group, led by Mauro Farina, was composed of Alberto Tegiacchi, Domenico Chindamo, Giovanni Pensa, Ruggero Gheller and Pietro Carboni. At the ...
Farol Peak, first ascent. The first ascent of the highest summit of Farol Peak, Farol West (6,370m) was made in 1991 by British climbers Neil Wilson and me. We climbed the 1,000m south face at Scottish III, reaching the summit at 3 a.m. We began r...
Agpatut and Ino, Alfred Wegener Peninsula, West Greenland. We had the opportunity to join Jordi Riera, who had sailed all the way around Spain and then non-stop to Greenland in a 30-foot sailboat. We flew and joined him in Umanak. For a month we s...
Phari Lapcha (6,017m), northeast face, attempt; Dawa Peak (5,920m), Snotty’s Gully, third ascent. Andy Turner and I attempted a new line up the left side of the northeast face of Phari Lapcha. However, we were repelled by difficult mixed ground, c...
Shadow Buttress, by Showell Styles. London: Faber and Faber, 1959. 255 pages. Price 15s.This well-written novel tells the story of a brilliant Scottish rock-climber who suddenly faces progressive blindness as the result of a war injury. The effect...
Aiguille Extra, East Buttress, near Mount Whitney. This hiding giant surprisingly had only one route on it, which follows an obvious large dihedral. Kenny Cook and I hiked on July 1 from Whitney Portal to the base of our proposed route, the unclim...
Streaked Wall, Latitudes, Second Ascent. It was reported that in early November, John Varco and Bryan Gilmore made the second ascent of Latitudes (VI 5.9 A4+) on the Streaked Wall. Varco first teamed up with Greg Grasso to climb, fix and haul to R...
Devils Tower. A record number of climbers ascended the Devils Tower on a record number of routes during 1964. There were 79 parties of 196 individuals on 19 routes. Ten first ascents (marked with asterisks below) were made. Statistics follow.Name ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—ROPE DIAMETER TOO SMALL FOR BELAY DEVICENorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain, David’s CastleOn September 25, 1994, Dante Taylor (26) was solo climbing about 1800 on the cliffs near David’s Castle. He could not find ...
Cerro Piramide. It was reported that Germans W. Lolblinger and E. Hass climbed this snow peak on December 5. (High Mountain Sports 154)