University Peak, Bear Raid Wall, No Bear Wall. Matt Graham, Barbara Presteridge and I climbed the direct north face (III, 5.8) of University Peak in July. The route started near the right side of a large tarn in the basin below the face. We headed...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, enjoyed the same miserable weather that other climbers experienced in 1971. The Climbing Committee laid out a schedule of 235 climbs for the year. Bad weather kept 46 of them from leaving town and spoiled ...
K2—The Savage Mountain, by Charles S. Houston, M.D., Robert H. Bates, and members of the Third American Karakorum Expedition. 334 pages, 27 photographs, with map and line drawings by Clarence Doore. 7 appendices. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1954. Price...
Nanda Kot, 1989. On August 21, 1989, our Base Camp was placed above the highest village Lawan at Lachhmanpatti at 14,000 feet. Advance Base was occupied at 16,000 feet on the 26th. During the night it began to snow and kept on until the 28th when ...
FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO KICK STEPS, UNABLE TO SELF–ARREST (SOFT/ SLUSHY SNOW), FATIGUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotOn June 24 at 1000,I received a cell phone report from Exum Mountain Guide Christian Santelices, that a female (16) ...
The Guiding Spirit. Andrew J. Kauffman and William L. Putnam. Footprint Publishing, Revelstoke, British Columbia, 1986. 256 pages, photographs, and proper maps. $16.00.The Guiding Spirit is a biography of the well-known Swiss (and Canadian) mounta...
RAPPEL OFF UNEQUAL ROPESWashington, Index Town WallIn early August, Greg Child had one of the more exciting rappelling experiences possible. He reported it as follows:If I had a penny for every rappel I’d done, I’d be a rich man. After 22 years of...
Annapurna IV. The British Joint Services Expedition consisted of Brian Tilley, Lothar Kuelheim, Mark Samuels, Nick Arding, Dave Evans, Steve Willson, Rod Dunn, Gail Waller, Glyn Sheperd, Vick Barrows, Dr. Helen Robertson and me as leader. We arriv...
CHARLES DAVIS HOLLISTER 1936-1999Charley Hollister was an inexhaustibly cheerful and upbeat person with a Will Rogers-like wit, an adolescent’s playfulness and an unassuming folksy manner that masked a keen and creative intellect, exceptional driv...
STRANDED, POOR RAPPEL TECHNIQUEColorado, FlatironsDuring the morning of On December 28, Kevin Mines (53) and his son (16) started climbing the Third Flatiron. Later in the day while descending, Kevin injured his back rappelling and was unable to h...
Thin Air: Encounters in the Himalayas. Greg Child. Patrick Stephens Ltd., Wellingborough, England, 1988. 192 pages, map, diagrams, color photographs, appendices (including black-and-white photographs identifying routes). £12.95.Yosemite big-wall c...
DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE FLUIDS, MISPERCEPTION California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 22,1993, at 1215 cries for help were reported from high on the Salathe route of El Capitan. Two climbers were discovered calling for help due to lack o...
Mt. Everest, new Mallory and Irvine discoveries, north ridge ascent, rescues. On March 20 our 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition arrived at Rongbuk Base Camp hoping we could find the camera we believed Andrew Irvine was carrying in 1924. ...
The Direct Rupal FaceGoing broomless on Nanga Parbat’s 4,000~meter Rupal Face, Pakistan.Bruce MillerSteve House and I were two hours out of base camp and already over 600 meters up the new route of a lifetime. What that means on the Rupal Face of ...
W. Virginia, Quarry near Ridgley—On 13 October, Donald R. Anderson (20) fell about 35 feet when his rappel rope broke while rappelling in a quarry near Ridgley, W. Va. There were three others in the party. The purpose was to practice rappelling pr...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinley, South ButtressThe “South Buttress 95” expedition members included leader Tom Fitzsimmons (45), Jim Fitzsimmons (38), Richard Rodgers (40), and David Hoffman (49). Their intended route was the 1954 ascent of the Sou...
KATE GARDINER1886-1974Kate Gardiner passed away in her sleep at her home in Hastings, New Zealand on January 28, 1974. She was a member of the American Alpine Club from 1932 until 1971, when with failing eyesight and little strength, she asked to ...
Between September 10 and 22, Doychin Boyanov, Mihail Mihaylov, and I explored the Khane Valley to investigate possibilities for big wall routes and virgin summits. It lies parallel to and immediately south of the Nangma Valley. There is almost n...
El Capitan, Free Rider. On September 21, Peter Janschek and I finished a free ascent of Free Rider. We swapped every lead. The leader redpointed every pitch. We did not pre-place any gear. The second also climbed every pitch free: I redpointed eve...
Guy Edwards 1972-2003The northwest face of the Devil’s Thumb, near Petersburg, Alaska, remains what is likely the most impressive unclimbed face in the Americas. It has been attempted by many times by people such as Alex Lowe, Jack Roberts, Dieter...