Nevado Pariacacca Norte, Traverse. The twin Nevados Tuyujuto or Pariacacca (5756m and 5701m) belong to the Cordillera de Huarochiri (locally also called Pariacacca), some 100 kilometers east of Lima. Gonzalo Menacho and I reached the area of Lake ...
Anyemaqen. In May a 13-man Japanese expedition claims to have made the first ascent of Anyemaqen (6282 meters, 20,610 feet) when Yoshio Yamamoto, Giichiro Watanabe and Katsumi Miyake reached the top. Yuzo Tada was the leader. Details are lacking. ...
Cerro Torre, Various Activity. The Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre saw several attempts, but it appears that none was successful. In November, Swiss Jurg Anderegg and Bernd Rathmayr made two significant attempts, but both times they were driven bac...
Mount McKinley Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Japanese Noburo Yamada, Teruo Saegusa and Kozo Komatsu attempted to make a winter ascent of McKinley. They were last seen on February 22 by Austrians when they were pitching camp at 17,000 feet. An aerial...
California, Mt. Whitney. On 26 March Dr. Michael Hamilton (43) slipped and fell 1,000 to his death while descending Mt. Whitney with four companions.Source: Newspaper clippings.
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 29 Stefan Jeronin (40), a client of Mountain Trip, collapsed below Denali Pass about 18,000 feet. He was treated on the hill for HACE symptoms and short-roped down to the 17,200-foot camp on the Wes...
Kamet. Our team included B.S. Vasudeva Murthy, B.G. Naganath, M.V. Rajeswari, R.M. Ashavathi, R.K. Anath, T.S. Badarinath, S. Srivatsa, B.R. Chandrasekhar, Dr. Vrushabhananda and me as leader. After obtaining the necessary inner-line and other per...
Deborah, Attempt from Yanert Glacier. Bob Hyslop, leader, Joe Throop, Omar Hansen and I were landed by Cliff Hudson on May 16 on the Yanert Glacier at 6500 feet, a half-mile from the great icefall. We were surprised to find an Alaskan party of thr...
Bear, Bona and “Super Cub Peak,” St. Elias Mountains. After receiving word that our landing site in the eastern Alaska Range was out of shape, we scrambled for a new destination. On May 29, Doug Barlow and I were landed on the eastern fork of the ...
Cerro Torre, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu and the Ragni di Lecco route. In early January, taking 32 hours base-to-summit and two days round-trip from their bivy, Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley made the first link-up of A la Recherche du Temps Perdu...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Membership during 1981 continued to grow with many new novice as well as experienced climbers participating in club activities. In addition to the customary crags of New Hampshire, Connecticut, and New York, weekly beg...
Cat’s Ears Spire, Hainabrakk East Tower, and Shipton Spire, Ascents. In July and August, Mike Pennings and Jonathan Copp took advantage of brief weather windows and a lightweight approach to climb three routes, two of which were new and one of whi...
Kusum Kanguru. Swiss climbers Ruedi and Urs Homberger and Christian Jaggi made a rapid ascent of Kusum Kanguru.
New Route, Glenwood Canyon. In August, Harvey Carter and I completed The Internationale, the longest and most sustained route in Glenwood Canyon to date. It consisted of 18 pitches of climbing; many of these were 5.8 or 5.9, and there is one 60-fo...
Everest Attempt. Briton Jonathan Pratt attempted Everest without teammates or Sherpas, but he could hardly have been said to have been climbing solo since eight other expeditions were on the same route. Indeed, he made use of other people’s tents,...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE Washington, Morning Star PeakOn June 26, 1988, Larry Wallinger (41) left home at 0930 to practice using his new ice ax and crampons. He was teaching himself how to climb from the textbook Freed...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1952 the Chicago Mountaineering Club activities were concentrated on local outings. Eleven were scheduled with a total attendance of 239 members and 184 guests.Thirteen members of the Club attended the Mount Ass...
Nevado Payachata, Northern Andes. B. Coloseo, E. Novoa and N. Soto, made on Dec. 5, 1973 the fifth ascent, all on ice, of Nevado Payachata (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), finding on the top records of previous Chilean expeditions.Rafael Martínez, Fede...
SLIP ON ICE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerWhile descending Mount baker around 2000 meters via Coleman-Deming Glacier on September 9, Steven Amber (27), Vincent Willard (25) and Reese White (29) approached the last slope directly above their t...
Nameless Tower, Trango Group. A Spanish expedition made another new and very difficult route on the Nameless Tower. It rises between the 1987 Franco-Swiss route (Delale, Fauquet, Piola, Schaffter) and the 1976 British route (Anthoine, Brown, Boyse...