Book Reviews AAJ
Le Chamois

Le Chamois, by Marcel A. J. Couturier. 4 to., xi + 855 pages, with 110 tables, 15 x-rays, 473 illustrations from photographs, 34 maps, bibliography and indices. Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1938.Although the author brought out his monumental work on the ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Another Ascent of the World's Highest Peak-Qomolangma

Another Ascent of the World’s Highest Peak—Qomolangma, (no author given). Peking: Foreign Languages Press, 1975. 118 pages, many black-and-white and color photos.It is all too easy to make fun of the Chinese on Everest. By Western standards, their...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Mount Forel Region, East Greenland

Mount Forel Region, East Greenland. The Imperial College East Greenland Expedition went as a sequel to the Imperial College Expedition to the same area last year. (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, pp. 377-8.) Our 1967 expedition intended to attempt as many of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Reserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics

Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During the 2005 climbing season 86 persons participated in 29 mountaineering expeditions, accounting for 1,535 person-days in the icefields of Kluane National Park.As usual most ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Nevado Rasac, East Face Variant

NevadoRasac, East Face Variant. Ecuadorians F. Espinoza, M. Purúncajas and H. Torres, from Ambato, made on August 3 a variant on the east face of Rasac (6040 meters, 19,817 feet) by keeping to its rock wall. They had to bivouac just below the top ...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The past year was one of the most active in the club’s history. A total of 42 activities were sponsored with the membership again passing the 1000 mark, including the four classes of membership. The local outdoor activities were...


Book Reviews AAJ
Steve Mather of the National Parks

Steve Mather of the National Parks, by Robert Shankland. 326 pages, 24 illustrations, with an introduction by Gilbert Grosvenor. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1951. Price, $4.00.There are really several books within these covers. First, there is the ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate; The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest '78

Everest: Expedition to the Ultimate, by Reinhold Messner. Translated by Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press, 1979. 254 pages. Many photographs in black-and-white and in color. Price $16.95.The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ’78, by Pe...


Accident Reports AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Southwest Ridge, Tragedy and Ascent

Nanga Parbat, Southwest Ridge, Tragedy and Ascent. Our expedition, made up of Stefan Wörner, leader, Dr. Alex Berger, Martin Braun, Peter Hiltbrand, Norbert Joss, Hansruedi Staub and me, arrived on May 9 at Base Camp below the Diamir Face. On the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Borgtinde, Wiedermann Fjord, East Greenland

Borgtinde, Wiedermann Fjord, East Greenland. The objectives of the Sheffield University Expedition were to gain access to and investigate the Lilloise and Borgtinde intrusions. Our expedition was essentially geological but since to reach the Lillo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park

Colorado: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 10 October 1949 another unsolved mystery of the mountains developed when two young hikers from the Colorado A. and M. Hikers’ Club disappeared on the top of 12,300-foot Flat Top Mountain. Davi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Frostbite, Dehydration, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 16,1987, Franziska Bracher (27) and Ivan Seeholzer, (24) from Switzerland, began their attempt for the summit from the 5200 meter camp on the West Buttress. Two other members of their party turne...


Accident Reports ANAM
Equipment, Exceeding Abilities, Weather, California, Inyo National Forest, Mount Ritter

STRANDED, OFF-ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHERCalifornia, Inyo National Forest, Mount RitterOn September 7th, the park received a mutual aid request from Mono County SAR for assistance in rescuing a stranded c...


Feature Article AAJ
A Fight for Life on Monte Rosa

A Fight for Life on Monte RosaGUY M. EVERETTMOUNTAINEERING is full of light and air. The early call, the quick breakfast, and away into the darkness with the flashlight picking a way through the rocks of the terminal moraine. Thus it started for F...


Notes AAJ
South America, Southern Peru, Map of Part of the Cordillera Carabaya from the Survey of the New Zealand Andean Expedition, 1967

Map of Part of the Cordillera Carabaya from the Survey of the New Zealand Andean Expedition, 1967. We used a Kern DKM1 Theodolite. The heights and location of the main peaks within the range were determined by theodolite triangulation (approximate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, The Southeast Face of the Dent D'Herens (First Ascent)

The S. E. Face of the Dent d’Herens (First Ascent)The S. E. face of the Dent l’Herens, 4,180 m. (4180 m.= 13,715 ft.) towers over 3,000 feet above the Cherillon Glacier. It is limited toward E. by a jagged ridge, which divides the Cherillon Glacie...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exposure (Took Gloves Off) — Frostbite, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

EXPOSURE (TOOK GLOVES OFF) - FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressKAJ Denali 2008 (from Croatia) expedition members Jadranko Mlinaric (40) and Kristina Marjanovic made a summit attempt on June 27th, turning around at Denali Pass. Mlinaric...


Feature Article AAJ
Trick of the Light, A rope, a Rack, and a Pack on the Back

Trick of the LightA rope, a rack, and a pack on the backJonathan CoppSprawled in the glacier-fed meadow of Shipton Spire Base Camp, we gawk at the Cat’s Ears Spire and its fantastic needle-like summit. Now, within the honesty of satisfied exhausti...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Cochamó, Capicua, Gato Negro Lo Mejor Vino En Caja

Capicua, Gato Negro Lo Mejor Vino En Caja. Matt Touchette and I returned to paradise in January 2008 to try to find a route on the breathtaking, beautiful, serene Capicua, a 1,000m granite wall in Cochamó. There were two existing routes on the wal...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...