A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. At our five meetings in 1963, we had the following talks and pictures — Boyd Everett: the first ascent of Mount McKinley’s southeast spur; Leif-Norman Patterson: the first ascent of Tullparaju in the Cordillera Blanc...
Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal. This peak is situated north of Kagbeni (and north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs). The area was opened for expeditions only in 1982. The first to obtain a permit to enter the restricted area was an 11-man Japanese...
Climber’s Guide to Pinnacles National Monumment, Second Edition. David Rubine. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1995. 248 pages. $25.00.Comment: Generally succeeds in its aim to include the entire Pinnacle’s climbing experience to be a compl...
Rasac Central, West Spur. A. Antola, F. Ferraresi and A. Mantero made a new route, the west spur of Rasac Central (5617 meters, 18,429 feet) on August 5. From an average of 50°, the climb had passages of 70°.
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition included Simon Feigelson, Michel Février, Raymond Coene, Andrzej Mroz, Jean François Porret and me as leader. Tragically Mroz was killed climbing a few days before our departure and was replaced by ...
Ama Dablam. Swiss Jakob Reichen, Daniel Oertli and Robert Bosch reached the summit of Ama Dablam on October 23 via the southwest ridge, the normal route.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, TetonsOn February 3, 1985 Bruce Melliger (29) signed out for a solo ascent of the Southeast couloir on Mount Wister, intending to return the same day. When Melliger failed to return on the 4th, a search was initia...
Japuma and Four Nearby First Ascents, Cordillera Carabaya. Mollie Porter, Barbara Spark, Carol McNeill, Janet Richards and I climbed in the Cordillera Carabaya. We hired llamas to carry our gear the six-hour walk from Macusani to Base Camp southea...
AVALANCHENew York, Adirondack MountainsOn March 21, 1987, Jean Grenon (30) and Paul Junique (30) were ice climbing in a couloir on Mount Colden when they were struck by an avalanche which carried them to the bottom. During the fall, Grenon’s cramp...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Mount Hood, South SideOn June 17, Aaron Dunlap (31), Jeremy Hawkins (32), and Brad Wood (30), were just below the Pearly Gates when two of them lost their footing and slid down t...
Dhaulagiri, Winter Attempt. A Japanese team of three led by Haruyuki Endo gave up early in their attempt on the northeast ridge in winter because of strong winds and one member’s illness.Elizabeth Hawley
Wind River Range. On July 4, 1954, we made the first ascent on Gannett Peak (13,785 feet) of the northwest ridge, which rises along the continental divide from Koven Col. Except for Harvard freshman Roger Dane and myself, our party consisted of fi...
Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheater Headwall, 1993, Correction. On page 133 of AAJ 1994, a route was described as being new. It seems likely that this route was previously climbed by members of the 1974 Pamirs expedition as given in Robert W. Craig...
Disteghil Sar and Momhil Sar Attempts. Our expedition hoped to make the first ascent of Disteghil Sar (7885 meters, 25,869 feet) from the north. We were Ulla and Helmut Freilinger, Bernhard Tschochner, Werner Zacharias, Hartwig Dorn, Kurt Gross, H...
Saipal. There were two expeditions on Saipal’s northeast ridge in the post-monsoon season. Four Swiss and three Frenchmen were led by Gaston Zoller. On October 26, Frenchman Jacques Montaz and Tendi Sherpa reached the summit (7031 meters, 23,068 f...
Por los Andes del Ecuador. Jorge Anhalzer and Ramiro Navarrete. Ediciones Campo Abierto, Quito, 1983. 172 pages, 120 color photographs, 8 black and white drawings. Approximately $35.00.Despite a mere twenty-five ice peaks in its realm, Ecuador has...
The Way of the Four Winds, by Yrjo Kokko. 8vo., 285 pages with index and 148 photo-illustrations by the author. Translated by Naomi Walford. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1954. Price, $5.00.This is a book about Finnish Lapland, a composite life-s...
Bhrikuti. Bertrand Doligez led a second expedition of ten French climbers to Bhrikuti (6364 meters, 20,879 feet), which completed the third ascent of the peak again by the southeast ridge. He had led another successful group there in 1991. On Nove...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy Ridge, The Pear ButtressOn September 3, 1995, David Charis-Mink (39) began climbing the standard 5.7 runout start on The Pear Buttress (III, 5.8+...
Changabang, north face and west ridge attempts. In August, Kester Brown, Craig Jefferies, Marty Beare, and I, all from New Zealand, with Adam Darragh from Australia, traveled to the Bagini Glacier to attempt the north face and the second ascent of...