Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), first ascent. The British Nganglong Kangri Expedition consisted of Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, and myself (UK) and Toto Gronlund (Finland). We left London on the 28th of August, flying to Kathmandu and ente...
Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Photography. Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1993. 288 pages, 138 color photographs. $25.00Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Photography is a worthwhile re...
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. Second edition. 1930. Pp. 244. John C. Winston & Co., Philadelphia. $3.25 postpaid. Obtainable from the secretary of the American Alpine Club, 50 Co...
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse MiddleThink all the 8000-meter summits have been climbed? Then you need the vision to see a peak like Lhotse’s middle summit, NepalYuri KoshelenkoThe history of the Himalaya and Karakoram says that there are only 1...
PULMONARY EDEMA or PNEUMONIA Alaska, Mt. McKinleyGeorg Wudi (35) was a member of the West German Mount McKinley Expedition. Bad weather delayed their departure for several days, but they were flown to the southeast fork landing strip on June 28. T...
EXPOSURE TO SEVERE WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIP- MENT–PORTALEDGE, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 26 at 1415, Yosemite Dispatch received a telephone call from Robert Burton, who reported that he had received a ...
Bipeng Valley, Banji North, north face, attempt. Banji (Banji Feng; Half Ridge Peak, 5,430m) was the first main peak to be climbed in the Bipeng Valley. It was first ascended in May 2004 from the west via the drainage that flows down to the valley...
Nevados Chearoco, Calzada and Sihuaillusa, Cordillera Real. The Reading University Andean Expedition, Ronald H. F. Hunter leader, Robin G. Bradford, Edward F. J. Quicke, John Floodpage, Ray J. Fearon and Michael Smith, left La Paz for a seven-week...
Mount Logan High Altitude Project – 1970. The Arctic Institute of North America again operated its research facility on the summit plateau of Mount Logan at 17,600 feet. Research was again carried out in high altitude human physiology, climatology...
The Mountain World 1962/63. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Directed by Hans Richard Muller. English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. London: George Allen and Unwin, Ltd.; Chicago: Rand McNally and Co., 1964. 240 pages, 70 ...
Mount McKinley, South Face, Second Ascent of Cassin Route. Kosaku Keira, Akio Kawagoe, Masahiro Shukuin, Yoshitaka Akimoto, Koichi Hirakawa, Tsukasa Yamanaka, Hideki Ujiie and I as leader went from Anchorage to Talkeetna on April 26 and on the sam...
Rainbow JambaiaThe first free ascent of the main Angel Falls wall, Venezuela.Ivan CalderónIn December 2004, after receiving a letter from John Arran inviting me to climb the concave wall of Angel Falls, I grabbed the telephone and began making the...
Douglas Craig Zimmerman, 1957-2010Whether in the mountains, working on his farmhouse, or enjoying a short hike, Doug Zimmerman was most at home in the outdoors, where he found peace and beauty. On a sunny day in June 2010, Doug died suddenly while...
Ascents in the San Juan Needles. On July 5 David Michael, John Marshall and I climbed what we named "Sunlight Spire,” the summit of which is an impressive obelisk, which, at 14,000 feet, is the culminating point of the group of pinnacles on the ri...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Leaving On A Jet Plane. Mark Richards and I finished a new route, Leaving On A Jet Plane (VI A3+ 5.10, 13 pitches), between the Giraffe and Pan Am in early October. The route is non-stop exposure with a big-wall feel all the ...
Mt. Hunter, Corliss-Taylor Buttress. From May 13-21 Greg Corliss and I climbed a new route on Mt. Hunter that is essentially a variation of the existing South Ridge route. The climb rises in the middle of the south face, between the southeast spur...
Shohgologh Zom, Lunkho Group. Takao Nagamine, Tetsuo Shimada and I left Tokyo on July 21 and arrived in Chitral on the 24th, where we began the journey with 450 pounds of gear on four donkeys. We got to the last village, Phurgram, in the Rich Gol ...
Appalachian Mountains: (2) Mt. Katahdin. On 4 September 1948 Mary Rossbach (25-30) was climbing with her husband on Mt. Katahdin. They had climbed to Baxter Peak from the Chimney Pond Campground and had crossed the Knife Edge to Chimney Peak. In t...
Numbers Refer to Persons Directly InvolvedU.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock17012015919Snow10001723415 Ice631479River9210Unknown10400Ascent or DescentAscent13692016523Descent11031282713Unknown2022157Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock101393439Sli...
FALL FROM ROCK WHILE SETTING UP RAPPEL, NO HELMETTennessee, Prentice Cooper State ParkOn May 1, Chris Chesnutt (30) and two friends, Jerry Roberts (34) and Travis Eisman (30) spent a long day climbing in an undeveloped area in Prentice Cooper Stat...