In 2010 I went to the Koh-e-Baba to explore cool-looking rock towers. Though I was able to reach two summits, East and West Ibex Ears, I was denied my goal of reaching the prominent tower in the group, the Ibex Horn, and just missed being crushed ...
HENRY SNOW HALL, JR. 1895-1987A very proper Bostonian, in every positive sense of the word, Henry Hall has been the most important single figure in the maturity of the American Apline Club.Bom June 3, 1895, Henry was educated at Saint George’s Sch...
Ultar (7,388m), southeast pillar, attempt. Christian Trommsdorff and I met at the beginning of October in Karimabad, Hunza. The earthquake did not appear to have done much damage, but enormous avalanches were sweeping the surrounding mountains. Ou...
Saint Elias Mountains, Attempt and Ascents. From a base camp on a “virgin” glacier between Mount King George (3741 m) and Mount Queen Mary (3928 m), we took advantage of generally good weather to attempt the northeast ridge of Mount King George, m...
Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above the Nare Valley. During our first two weeks we acclimatized by trekking from base camp in the village of Pangboche (3,900m) to the ...
Beu-tse, first ascent. In September Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, Alasdair Scott, and I made the first ascent of Beu-tse (6,270m), which lies in Tolung Dechen County of Central Tibet, ca 16km south of the town of Yangpachen. The peak forms one of a ...
Bookmark Pinnacle, Skid You Not, Lumpy Ridge. In late June Doug Snively, Aaron Walters and I made the first ascent of Skid You Not (II, 5.11c). It ascends the slab immediately right of Melvin’s Wheel. Two bolts were used for protection on the crux...
Colorado, Hallet Peak, Tyndall Glacier—On August 21, Philip Gillette (31) and his wife (31) climbed Hallet Peak via Chaos Canyon. They descended the edge of Tyndall Glacier and were making slow progress due to loose rock and fatigue of Mrs. Gillet...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn May 7, while descending unroped from above Windy Corner at the 13,500- foot level, Tom Fux (23) fell about 60 feet down a steep ice slope. His fall was caused by catching a crampon on an overboot...
Sesar Rang. This lovely peak is on the divide between the Tirung Gad and Gyamithang Gad in eastern Kinnaur. It was climbed by a 13-member Bengalese team led by Ashim Kumar Ghosh. On September 2, the leader, Moloy Ghoshal, Nilopal Roy and Chandan M...
Yerupajá, West Face, 1980. In 1980 Czechoslovaks Jaromir Stejskal, Josef Rakoncaj, Miloš Nosek and Jiri Beneš climbed the west face of Yerupajá, reaching the summit ridge between the main and south summits. Some days later, the expedition leader, ...
FALL ON SNOW, NO HELMET, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Mount StanleyOn August 6 a climber was reported overdue from a solo attempt on the Kahl route, a popular snow and ice alpine climb. He had been dropped off at 0600 at...
Likhu Chuli I, north ridge, attempt. Japanese Koichi Ezaki and Hiroshi Kudo made the first official attempt on the north ridge of Likhu Chuli I (6,719m). The well-known trekking peak of Parchamo (6,279m) is the northerly extension of this ridge. O...
New Routes and Interesting Ascents. Mount McKinley: No new routes were completed in 1987. The Northwest Buttress was climbed by a team of four, two of whom reached the North Peak. The South-Face Haston-Scott route received its third ascent by Amer...
Dorje Lhakpa. This joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition led by Kunio Kataoka made the first authorized ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6990 meters, 22,933 feet), though there are rumors that it had been previously climbed without permission. The expedition’...
Carnicero, 1982. Italians climbed the southwest face of Carnicero for the first time in July 1982. They made Base Camp on Juraucocha at 14,300 feet. Camp I was at 16,575 feet below the fluted slope they climbed. Camp II was 1000 feet higher. Above...
North Chasm View Wall, Fuzzy Dice. Fuzzy Dice (IV 5.10d/11a) climbs a crack system up the far left side of the North Chasm View Wall (left of the Plunge Pillar, right of the North Pillar). FA: Mike Pennings and myself in one day in the fall.Jonath...
Northeast Face of Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range. On August 4 Bill Byrd, Roland Wyatt, and David Dingman left the Tetons for the Wind River Range on a one-week “guides’ holiday.” As we proceeded north along the Green River from the Green Riv...
Huascarán Norte, North Face, Women’s Ascent. A Polish-Czech women’s team completed a new route on the extreme right side of the north face of Huascarán Norte, between the French (Paragot) spur and the Italian northwest ridge. In the lower section ...
After five failed attempts with several partners, I joined with Dan Petrus to complete the first ascent of the north face of Heritage Point (3,600', VI M6 WI6 A2) in the Chugach Mountains. We took the most obvious ice smear in the center of the fa...