Makalu West Pillar Attempt. We were Dwayne Congdon, Albert Sole, Sharon Wood (recipient of a Vera Watson-Alison Chadwick Onyszkiewicz grant) and Dr. Ken Bassett, Canadians, and Charles Sassara and I, Americans. We established Base Camp at 17,700 f...
LIGHTNINGUtah, Lone PeakOn July 26, Trent (28) and Alexis Pabst (23) were killed by a lightning strike on the summit of Lone Peak. Together with Trent’s younger brother Tyler (18), the couple had climbed The Open Book, a five-pitch 5.7 route that ...
Ogre, South Buttress, Attempt, and Latok IV, South Summit, Ascent. Alexander Huber, Toni Gutsch and Jan Mersch reached Islamabad on May 31. Thomas Huber arrived on June 3. Our lost equipment (24 out of 37 pieces) finally arrived on June 9. We reac...
Istor-o-Nal, First Ascent of Highest Point, and Other Neighboring Peaks. Juan Cerda, Emilio Civio, Jorge Pons, Gines Roca and I as leader were joined in Rawalpindi by Liaison Officier Captain Amir Hashmat. From that city we drove by lorry a day an...
PHILIP DODD SMITH 1905-1979On November 7, 1979, one of the great pioneers of Teton climbing, Philip Dodd Smith of Twentynine Palms, California, died of a heart attack. Born on March 11, 1905, at Montour, Iowa, Phil Smith, as he was always informal...
Thunder Peak, East Ridge, Previously Unreported. In 1998 and 1999, a small Italian expedition visited the Miyar Valley in India. The team was composed of Gianluca Beilin and Diego Steffani. In 1998, they climbed a tower christened “Thunder Peak” (...
At the end of February 2010 Luciano Fiorenza, Tomy Aguilo, and I—all Argentines—completed a new route on the west pillar of Fitz Roy, on the face right of Supercanaleta and just right of Ensueño. On the first day we hiked from Chalten and climbe...
Ancohuma, Barrador Intimo; Pico del Norte, C’est la Vie, and other ascents. Climbing early in the year on the east face of Ancohuma (6,427m), Frenchmen Pierre Bogino and Simon Paris added a new ice/mixed line, which they named Barrador Intimo. The...
Mount Maxwell. After arriving at Kluane Lake on August 5, for a week we packed our loads along Slims River and up the Kaskawulsh Glacier to its confluence with the South Arm. On August 15 Jean Bertucca, Jeannine Carrette, Eliane Hoste, Monique Lar...
On January 29, 2012, Daniel Gross, Markus Kautz, and I reached the mystical and rarely seen summit of Monte Buckland by a new route, the northeast ridge and northeast face (D). We have called our line Silberkondor after the plane piloted by Gunthe...
Muldrow Glacier MotionBradford WashburnFor A GREAT MANY years there have been all sorts of conjectures as to the rate of movement of Muldrow Glacier, which flows off the northeast flank of Mount McKinley. The rate at which any glacier moves is hig...
One Man’s Mountains, by Tom Patey. London: Victor Gollancz, 1971.287 pages, illustrated. £3.00.When one experiences the rare delight of reading a climbing book as magnificent as Tom Patey’s One Man’s Mountains, all those other earnest and dreary c...
Vinson Massif, summary. Around 140 climbers summited Vinson during the 2005-2006 season, with only four climbers unsuccessful. There were no new routes reported on the mountain, though at least one team climbed Mount Shinn (4,661m) by the normal r...
The Kangchenjunga ascent viewed from DarjeelingANDERSON BAKEWELL, S.J.Seldom in mountaineering history have such favorable conditions been granted for observing a large-scale expedition on a major Himalayan peak as that on Kangchenjunga in 1955. N...
Mustagh Tower. Our expedition was made up of Sandy Allan, Jon Tinker, Tony Brindle and me as leader, United Kingdom, and Burt Greenspan, Donna Kalel and Alex Reid, United States. Unfortunately Greenspan had a knee injury whilst on the walk in and ...
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Ritter. The accident occurred on a trip which was advertised by its organizer, the Sierra Singles Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter, as a Memorial Day weekend outing to Lake Ediza with an optional climb of Mt. Ritte...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION\California, Yosemite National Park, Middle CathedralOn May 6, I took a lead fall way bigger than I would have liked and got to have a couple fun helicopter rides because of it. Just thought I’d share what happen...
JAMES RAMSEY ULLMAN 1908–1971On June 20, 1971, American mountaineering lost its most distinguished man of letters when James Ramsey Ullman died of cancer at the age of 63.For more than 30 years, Jim’s books introduced Americans of all ages to the ...
The far eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor has never seen many foreign visitors. During the Afghan climbing boom of the 1960s and 70s it was too remote and access too difficult to draw major attention, with high virgin peaks available two hours’ ...
Peak 6,365, The Shadow Line, Attempt. With Dave Goldstein, in February and March, I climbed The Shadow Line (nine pitches, 5.11 A3+) on Peak 6,365, the second large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. Mixed free and aid for five pitches, leadin...