Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Activity in Yosemite Valley

Activity in Yosemite Valley. The most brilliant effort of 1995 was Alex Huber's second all-free ascent of the Salathé Wall. Accompanied by Austrian Heinz Zak, Huber redpointed every pitch without preplaced gear, which must surely rank with Lynn Hi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua, South Face Direct

Aconcagua, South Face Direct. The South Tirolean Expedition had hoped to climb the south buttress of the south peak of Aconcagua. After they arrived at their 13,775-foot Base Camp on January 6, they reconnoitered this route until the 10th but foun...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into Crevasse, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains

FALL INTO CREVASSEYukon Territory, St. Elias MountainsOn June 13, 1992, a group of five climbers and two guides were ascending an unnamed 3600 meter mountain east of McArthur Peak. At 0500 at the 2700 meter level, a series of large crevasses were ...


Feature Article AAJ
Foraker, Pink Panther Route

Foraker, Pink Panther RouteDaniel Vachon, Féderation Québecois de la MontagnewHILE RETURNING from a short trip to the Shawangunks, Julien Dery made the mistake of pronouncing the prophetic remark, “Well, I think I’m about due for something like Pe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Exploration of Unclimbed Peaks in Tibet, and Mt. Zhemazhenyon, First Ascent

Exploration of Unclimbed Peaks in Tibet, and Mt. Zhemazhenyon, First Ascent. From summer to autumn of the last year of the 20th century, we explored unclimbed peaks in an unknown area of Tibet.In my first plan, our target was Mt. Ruoni (6610m), th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Climbing Alone in Severe Weather Conditions Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

On the evening of June 28, a guided group at high camp radioed NPS rangers at the 14,200-foot camp to report that a solo climber had been on the upper mountain for more than 24 hours and had not yet returned to his tent at high camp. NPS rangers...

| Published 2011


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himalaya, Overview of Foreign Expeditions

Overview of foreign expeditions. There was a marginal increase in the number of foreign expeditions to the Indian Himalaya—40 teams compared to 35 teams that climbed last year. The Ladakh area received 14 expeditions, mostly to the Nun-Kun massif ...


Feature Article AAJ
Central Tower of Paine

Central Tower of PaineIan Clough and Don Whillans, Alpine Climbing GroupPreparations — Ian CloughAT 7:30 p.m. on January 16, 1963, Don Whillans and Chris Bonington became the first ever to reach the summit of one of the world’s most inaccessible p...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1987. Nearly 1260 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions. The courses and mountain camps were again offered f...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall While Descending, Off Route, Inadequate Experience, Etc., West Virginia, Judy Gap Rocks

FALL WHILE DESCENDING, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EXPERIENCE, ETC.West Virginia, Judy Gap RocksOn February 28, 1992, David Dugan (42), Dean Beal (36), Belinda Smith, and her son (10) set out to attempt climbs on some obvious rock pinnacles on the north...


Feature Article AAJ
The Dutch Route, The Northeastern, Sunnier Side of Thalay Sagar Yields Its First Complete Route

The Dutch RouteThe northeastern, sunnier side of Thalay Sagar yields its first complete route.Mike van BerkelThe northeast face of Thalay Sagar had been on our minds since our 2001 trip to the Garhwal. We had climbed the south side of Bhrigupanth ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Rocks Around the World

Rocks around the World. Stefan Glowacz and Uli Wiesmeier. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1988. 144 pages. $24.95.There’s a commercial recipe behind Rocks Around the World: find a reigning rock-climbing star, send him with a personal photographe...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Field Book of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing

The Field Book of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, by Tom Lyman and Bill Riviere. New York: Winchester Press, 1975. 208 pages, with photos and illustrations. Price: $8.95.Tom Lyman, an active experienced mountaineer, collaborated with outdoor ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Northern Patagonian Icefield Traverse and Various Ascents

Northern Patagonian Icefield Traverse and Various Ascents. Between January 4 and January 27 our expedition, composed of seven members, visited the Northern Patagonian Icefield. We were Claudio Seeback, Norbert Seeback, Christian Buracchio, Christi...


Book Reviews AAJ
Extreme Landscape: The Lure of Mountain Spaces

Extreme Landscape: The Lure of Mountain Spaces. Edited By Bernadette McDonald. National Geographic Press. 2002. 320 pages. Paperback. $16.00.Anthologies are like families. You never know how the essays, all bound as one, will go. Extreme Landscape...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Coast Range, Homathko Icefield Traverse and Various First Ascents

Homathko Icefield Traverse and Various First Ascents. According to reports, no one had ever crossed the Homathko. Jim LaRue, Phil Hocker, Ben Haverty, Chip Ausley, Eric Richardson and I spent the last three weeks of July finding out why. An Appala...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Bhrikuti (6,361m), North Ridge Nepal, Mukut Himal, Damodar Himal

Bhrikuti is a Buddhist goddess. It is also the name of a Nepali princess, and the wife of the famous Tibetan emperor, Songsten Gampo. In addition, it is the name of a small summit in the Damodar Himal, deep in the confines of Nepal and Tibet, be...

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| Published 2010 | Author Paulo Grobel


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Dir Gol Peaks

Dir Gol Peaks. Dieter Oberbichler, leader, Dr. Gerhard Rupar, Walter Almberger and Gottfried Schneeberger of the Admont section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) traveled by microbus to Peshawar and flew to Chitral. They left on July 17 and in ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Boots and Crampons, Inexperience, Montana, Glacier National Park, Mount Jackson

FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE BOOTS AND CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCE Montana, Glacier National Park, Mount JacksonOn January 8, Kyle Borchert (20), Shad O’Neel (22) and Taggart Schubert (25) obtained a five-day backcou...


Feature Article AAJ
Jirishanca's West Face

Jirishanca’s West FaceRlCCARDO CASSIN, Lecco Section, Club Alpino ItalianoTHANKS TO the proposal of Dr. Sandro Liati, who with Gigi Alippi wanted to make an overseas expedition, my years-long dream of climbing in the Andes came true. Our friend, G...